Durbach - Many Mouths

Cambridge University Press is part of the University of Cambridge.

It furthers the Universitys mission by disseminating knowledge in the pursuit of education, learning, and research at the highest international levels of excellence.

Nadja Durbach 2020

This publication is in copyright. Subject to statutory exception and to the provisions of relevant collective licensing agreements, no reproduction of any part may take place without the written permission of Cambridge University Press.

A catalogue record for this publication is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978-1-108-48383-4 Hardback

Cambridge University Press has no responsibility for the persistence or accuracy of URLs for external or third-party internet websites referred to in this publication and does not guarantee that any content on such websites is, or will remain, accurate or appropriate.

To Miles and Finn

I am extremely grateful to the funding agencies that believed in this project and provided me with the time and research monies to complete this book. I received generous support from the John Simon Guggenheim Memorial Foundation, the American Philosophical Society, and the University of Utahs University Research Committee Awards and Faculty Fellowships, as well as the College of Humanities International Travel Grant program.

This is a deeply archival book, and I am profoundly indebted to the archivists and librarians who helped me with this research. The staff at The National Archives, United Kingdom, went above and beyond to provide me access to file after file for well over a decade. I am particularly grateful to those both at Kew and their offsite storage facility that transported and handled the almost 300 boxes of ED 123 school meals files that threatened to crush us all. If they never wanted to see me again, I would understand. The staff of the London Metropolitan Archives, the British Library (particularly its Asian and African collections), the Wellcome Collection, and the Imperial War Museum, London, were equally helpful. The Lancashire Archives kindly sent me files the old-fashioned way. The Interlibrary Loan Department at the University of Utahs Marriott Library was prompt and efficient, and I appreciate Mary Ann Jamess willingness to pursue digital collections for me.

Many administrators at the University of Utah have over the years said yes when they could just as easily have said no. I thank Stuart Culver, Dianne Harris, Eric Hinderaker, Jake Jensen, and Isabel Moreira for their confidence in this project.

I am fortunate to have been helped by a range of generous scholars who have read my work, listened patiently to works in progress, written me many letters of support, found me things to read, suggested topics worth pursuing, translated documents, shared their ideas and their scholarship, asked me great questions, forced me to rethink things, provided encouragement, and reminded me over and over again how important community is to the production of knowledge. I thank Julie Ault, Jordanna Bailkin, Anna Clark, Anne Clendinning, Brian Cowan, Mark Crowley, Sandra Dawson, Paul Deslandes, Jim Epstein, Aidan Forth, David Fouser, Sue Grayzel, Lisa Jacobson, Seth Koven, Lara Kriegel, Philippa Levine, Marjorie Levine-Clark, Chris Otter, Tammy Proctor, Erika Rappaport, Caitlin Rathe, Ellen Ross, Tehila Sasson, Lacey Sparks, Michelle Tusan, Deborah Valenze, James Vernon, Judith Walkowitz, Amy Woodson-Boulton, and Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska. Sandra Midgley and Susan Farwick kindly shared their photographs and memories of welfare orange juice with me. In London, Melanie Clews and Geoff and Rita Crossick repeatedly housed me, fed me (much better food than I write about), and treated me like family.

I received important feedback from audiences at several meetings at the North American Conference on British Studies, the Pacific Coast Conference on British Studies, the Rocky Mountain European Studies Consortium, the University of Texas at Austin, the University of California, Santa Barbara, the Food History Seminar at the Institute for Historical Research (London), and the University of St. Andrews. Members of the British Studies Research Interest Group at the University of Utah have heard almost every chapter of this book, and I am deeply grateful to the stalwarts: Matt Basso, Scott Black, Vincent Cheng, Andy Franta, Disa Gambera, Anne Jamison, Richard Preiss, Tom Stillinger, Jessica Straley, and Barry Weller. My colleagues in the History Department at the University of Utah, especially those who attended my works-in-progress presentation, have also been extremely helpful, and I am fortunate to be in such good company.