Peter Sholliers - A taste of progress : food at international and world exhibitions in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries

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A TASTE OF PROGRESS:
FOOD AT INTERNATIONAL AND WORLD EXHIBITIONS IN THE NINETEENTH AND TWENTIETH CENTURIES

In memory of
Prof. Em. Dr Hans-Jrgen Teuteberg,
founding father of ICREFH,
19292015

A Taste of Progress: Food at International and World Exhibitions in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries

Edited by

NELLEKE TEUGHELS

Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium

PETER SCHOLLIERS

Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium

First published 2015 by Ashgate Publishing

Published 2016 by Routledge

2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN

711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017, USA

Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business

Copyright Nelleke Teughels and Peter Scholliers 2015

Nelleke Teughels and Peter Scholliers have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as the editors of this work.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers.

Notice:

Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

The Library of Congress has cataloged the printed edition as follows:

A Taste of Progress: Food at International and World Exhibitions in the Nineteenth and

Twentieth Centuries / edited by Nelleke Teughels and Peter Scholliers.

pages cm

Includes index.

1. Food industry and trade Exhibitions History 19th century. 2. Food Exhibitions History 19th century. 3. Food industry and trade Exhibitions History 20th century. 4. Food Exhibitions History 20th century. I. Teughels, Nelleke, editor. II. Sholliers, Peter, editor.

TP370.T37 2015

664dc23

2015007109

ISBN: 9781472441836 (hbk)

ISBN: 9781315565309 (ebk-PDF)

ISBN: 9781317186427 (ebk-ePUB)

Contents

Nelleke Teughels

Wouter Van Acker and Christophe Verbruggen

Alain Drouard

Jeffrey M. Pilcher

Eva Coydon

Kaija Rautavirta and Antti Ahlstrm

Margherita dAyala Valva

Martin Franc

Marc Jacobs in collaboration with Alan Govenar

Nelleke Teughels

Sylvie Vabre

Van Troi Tran

Bryce Evans

Ritva Kylli

Patricia Van den Eeckhout

Derek J. Oddy

Diana Noyce

Peter Scholliers and Nelleke Teughels

List of Figures

List of Tables

Notes on Contributors

Antti Ahlstrm Emeritus Professor of Nutrition at the University of Helsinki, Valkjrvi, Finland.

Margherita dAyala Valva PhD, Researcher at the Art History Department of the Scuola Normale Superiore, Pisa, Italy. E-mail:

Eva Coydon Researcher at the University of Augsburg, Germany, and the University of Strasbourg, France. E-mail:

Alain Drouard Director of Research (Honorary), National Centre for Scientific Research, Paris, France. E-mail:

Bryce Evans PhD, Senior Lecturer in History at Liverpool Hope University, England. E-mail:

Martin Franc PhD, Researcher at the Masaryk Institute and Archives of the Academy of Sciences of the Czech Republic, Prague, Czech Republic. E-mail:

Alan Govenar PhD, writer, folklorist, photographer and filmmaker and Director of Documentary Arts. E-mail:

Marc Jacobs Director of FARO Flemish Interface Centre for Cultural Heritage, Brussels and Lecturer in Heritage Studies and Ethnology, Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium. E-mail:

Ritva Kylli PhD, Researcher at the Department of History, University of Oulu, Oulu, Finland. E-mail:

Diana Noyce Freelance food historian, Adelaide, Australia. E-mail: .

Derek J. Oddy Emeritus Professor of Economic and Social History, University of Westminster, London, UK. E-mail:

Kaija Rautavirta PhD, University Lecturer at the Department of Teacher Education, University of Helsinki, Helsinki, Finland. E-mail:

Peter Scholliers Professor of History and Director of Research, Social and Cultural Food Studies (FOST), Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium. E-mail:

Nelleke Teughels PhD, Researcher in Social and Cultural Food Studies (FOST), Vrije Universiteit Brussel and Research Foundation Flanders (FWO), Belgium. E-mail:

Van Troi Tran PhD, Researcher and Lecturer at the Department of History of Laval University, Quebec, Canada. E-mail:

Sylvie Vabre Associate Professor, Department of History, Toulouse University/Framespa-CNRS, France. E-mail:

Wouter Van Acker Lecturer in Architecture at Griffith University, Nathan, Australia. E-mail:

Patricia Van den Eeckhout Professor of History and Discourse Analysis, Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium. E-mail:

Christophe Verbruggen Professor of Social History, Ghent University, Ghent, Belgium. E-mail:

Preface

This volume is the result of the discussions and debates on Food and Major Exhibitions in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries at the thirteenth symposium of the International Commission for Research into European Food History (ICREFH), which took place in Brussels in September 2013. ICREFH is an informal research network founded by Professor Hans-Jrgen Teuteberg at the end of the 1980s. Since its first meeting in Mnster in 1989, exchanges between the participants have always been carried out on the model of a research seminar. ICREFH has organised a symposium every two years in a European city to debate an aspect of food history. Thus, twelve symposia have taken place to date, and twelve books recording these debates have now been published. The latest one, entitled The Food Industries of Europe in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries is dedicated to the memory of Adel den Hartog, co-founding father and past president of ICREFH, who died in 2012.

Food history is such a vast and complex field of research that looking at the titles published may give an impression of some dispersion. However, ICREFH has always focused on the history of food production and consumption in Europe during the two last centuries, and has always tried to take into account both the value and the difficulty of comparative approaches. As well as the industrialisation of food, its internationalisation is a major and complex issue that deserves attention and analysis, inasmuch as it differs from one country to another. It refers to multiple changes technical as well as economic and social such as the development of air and maritime transport and the overall increase of income and purchasing power. We have thus evolved from a situation of limited food supply to a diversified one involving the gradual adoption of more and more foreign products and recipes into the daily diet. In addition, there was the widespread introduction of new food products (exotic or not), of industrial food products and of convenient food, combining food and services that were more adapted to the new status of women. As a consequence, eating behaviour changed significantly throughout Europe.

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