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Pam Williams - Raising the Bar: The Future of Fine Chocolate

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Pam Williams Raising the Bar: The Future of Fine Chocolate
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Raising the Bar: The Future of Fine Chocolate: summary, description and annotation

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Just give me all your chocolate and no one gets hurt! Billions of us worldwide understand what it means to scream those words. We feel lost-even unhinged-without chocolates pleasures. And if chocolate is the music that makes our days brighter, fine chocolate is the symphony-the richest, most complex form in the chocolate universe. The most important movement in that symphonys centuries-old existence is now beginning. And that future is... what? A world of gray monochromatic flavor, or one rich with a rainbow of flavors that capture the myriad pleasures and diversity of the cocoa bean? In the spirit of Michael Pollans The Omnivores Dilemma, Raising the Bar: The Future of Fine Chocolate tells the story of what that next movement in the fine flavor chocolate symphony might hold. Told in four lively parts covering everything from before the bean to after the bar-genetics, farming, manufacturing, and bonbons-the book features interviews with dozens of international stakeholders across the fine flavor industry to consider the promises and pitfalls ahead. It looks through what is happening today to understand where things are going, while unwrapping the possibilities for the millions and millions of us who believe that life without the very best chocolate is no life at all.

Part One

Seeds of Change: Genetics and Flavor

The genetic story of the future of flavor cacao told through discussions with researchers, scientists, and experts around the world who are involved at the genetic level: from the mapping of the cacao genome to the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Initiative (HCP). The HCP seeks to connect flavor to genetics to the work being done on the ground in order to confront the spread of low-flavor beans and ensure cacao quality and diversity for future generations.

Part Two

From the Ground Up: Farmers, Farming, and Flavor

Discussion of the issues of growing cacao from an ecological and sustainable perspective given the reality of where it is grown. Interviews and stories cover the majority of fine flavor growing regions and myriad efforts to add value and values to fine flavor chocolate; preserve, protect, and propagate flavor cacao for the future; and ensure that the beans are as good as they can possibly be. The realities and possibilities of fair trade chocolate and the work being done on fermentation are also covered.

Part Three

To Market, To Market: Craftsmanship, Customer Education and Flavor

Can consumers learn to slow down, taste, explore, and value the costly complexity of fine chocolate? Though the future looks bright by some measurements, sometimes the numbers arent what they seem... Discussions with both artisan and traditional chocolate manufacturers around the world on how they see the market and sources for fine flavor beans and what they are doing to educate their customers about their craft, including a survey of the nature of raw, organic, and functional chocolate.

Part Four

Performing Flavor: The Art of the Chocolatier

Whether watching over those creations, traveling the world to discover new pairings, or simply taking their love of Junior Mints to the highest level, the worls fine flavor chocolatiers are all deeply aware of the stage they work on and the importance of taste in every performance. The future of their creations-the most flavorful and beautiful bonbons and confections in the world-are discussed as these chocolatiers confront the issues surrounding the preservation of their craft and how they see their flavors and recipe development changing (or not) in the future.

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Our family of Fine Chocolate ecolechocolatcom chocomapcom - photo 1
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ecolechocolat.com
chocomap.com
facebook.com/ecolechocolat
twitter.com/ecolechocolat
instagram.com/ecolechocolat/
pinterest.ca/ecolechocolat/
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finechocolateindustry.org
hcpcacao.org
Wilmor Publishing Corporation 1666 West 2nd Avenue Vancouver BC Copyright - photo 3
Wilmor Publishing Corporation
1666 West 2nd Avenue, Vancouver, BC
Copyright 2012 by Wilmor Publishing Corporation
All rights reserved. Except where permitted under the under the United States Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this book may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written consent of the publisher.
Printed in the United States of America
By Thomson-Shore Inc.
First Edition, 2012
Second Edition, 2014
Third Edition, 2019
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Pam Williams
Raising the Bar: The Future of Fine Chocolate
1st ed. p. cm.
ISBN: 978-0-9691921-2-1 - Print
ISBN: 978-0-9691921-3-8 - eBook
For future generations,
let there be the finest chocolate in the world.
CONTENTS
NOTICE PERSONS attempting to find a motive in this narrative will be - photo 4
NOTICE
PERSONS attempting to find a motive in this narrative will be prosecuted; persons attempting to find a moral in it will be banished; persons attempting to find a plot in it will be shot.

Those, of course, are not our words. They are Mark Twains, specifically the satirical notice he placed at the start of The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.

Not only are Twains words not our own, they in no way reflect our objectives or what we want our readers to do. Twain hoped his words would get people first and foremost to enjoy the story and not search for motives, morals, and plots. We hope you enjoy our narrative, too, but we have motives, morals, and plots, for sure, specifically the preservation and propagation of fine flavor cacao and chocolate now and for future generations.

So why use Twains words to start the book? Because Twains notice claiming a lack of seriousness in The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn has the exact opposite effect: it makes you take the book seriously.

Like Twains noticeand like fine flavor chocolate itselfthis book is a mixture of seriousness and fun. In writing this book, we strived to remember the words of Charles Schultz, creator of the beloved Peanuts comic strip: All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then doesnt hurt. We may take the future of fine chocolate very seriously, but we never forget that this is a book about the simple pleasures found in chocolate in its richest, most complex forms.

That said, people looking for motives, morals, and plots behind the names found in this book can stop. No, really. Stop. Seriously.

We cast a wide net to ensure a global view, but to keep things manageable for readers, we limited ourselves to a representative sample of topics and only a few perspectives on them from each country or region. There are many more people researching and growing wonderful cacao, manufacturing brilliant chocolate, and transforming that chocolate into magnificent bonbons than we could possibly include in this book. Someone could easily interview an entirely different lotor choose to talk to people from just a few regions or a single originand come up with something just as tasty. We support and hope to raise the bar for all them!

PART ONE
Seeds of Change:
Genetics and Flavor

We are drowning in information, while starving for wisdom. The world henceforth will be run by synthesizers, people able to put together the right information at the right time, think critically about it, and make important choices wisely.

E. O. Wilson, The Unity of Knowledge

Twenty Pounds of Cocaine
Thats what the white powder on Brett Beachs desk looked like: twenty pounds of cocaine. Of course, he knew it couldnt be cocaine. Dr. Dapeng Zhang wouldnt ask him to transport twenty pounds of cocaine halfway around the world to Madagascar... would he? Sure, Dr. Zhang had never said what Brett would pack and transport the samples in, but UPS, not the FBI, had delivered the package to his San Francisco office. It sure did look like cocaine, though. Then there was the matter of the six-by-nine-inch plastic bags for holding the powder and samples. Isnt that how cocaine gets packaged? What would the customs officials in Africa think? Of course, cocaine usually travels into the United States...

This is so bad, Brett thought. Im going to show up in a country that had a coup for two years carrying twenty pounds of white powder I cant completely explain. In the movie version of his life, this would be the moment things go terribly, horribly wrong.

A call to Dr. Zhang explained the sampling procedure, but Brett still had plenty of time to think about what could happen: The trip to Madagascar from San Francisco is one of the longest trips in the worlda flight to Washington, DC, another flight to Dakar, a connecting flight to Johannesburg, and finally, a puddle jumper to Madagascars capital, Antananarivo. Twenty-six hours of flying over two dayswhich Brett likens to a bad college hangover multiplied by five but without any of the fun.

And thats just the first part of the trip. To get to the sampling area, Brett would then fly north to an island off of Madagascar and haggle with the locals to take him back on a boat to the mainland (all of them trying to charge him more because he is foreign and has a bag hed prefer not to open). Back on the mainland, hed take a taxi into Ambanja, a town not unlike the Wild West: one bank, one post office, and Western Union. From Ambanja, the end is in sightjust a long hike through the worlds most densely populated jungle of endemic plants and animals to get samples of one of the most treasured and increasingly rare substances in the world.

If you think all this sounds less like a book on chocolate and more like a treatment for a movie in which an evil genius hunts the jungle for a rare ingredient to fuel his plot to bring the world to its knees, youre right. But its not. For the record, Brett Beach is not an unsuspecting drug courier; he is a partner in Madcasse Chocolate. Dr. Zhang is not Dr. Evil; he is the lead research geneticist at the USDAs Agricultural Research Service (USDA-ARS) and its Sustainable Perennial Crops Laboratory. Neither Brett nor Dr. Zhang is chasing world domination; theyre chasing flavor, specifically the DNA of cacao trees and the origin of the finest chocolate in the worldchocolate that has absolutely brought more than a few of us to our knees. And the future of that chocolate has a lot to do with the leaves Brett and a few farmers in Madagascar put in that white powder.

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