Turner - How the other half ate : a history of working class meals at the turn of the century

How the Other Half Ate

CALIFORNIA STUDIES IN FOOD AND CULTURE

Darra Goldstein, Editor

1. Dangerous Tastes: The Story of Spices, by Andrew Dalby

2. Eating Right in the Renaissance, by Ken Albala

3. Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health, by Marion Nestle

4. Camembert: A National Myth, by Pierre Boisard

5. Safe Food: The Politics of Food Safety, by Marion Nestle

6. Eating Apes, by Dale Peterson

7. Revolution at the Table: The Transformation of the American Diet, by Harvey Levenstein

8. Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America, by Harvey Levenstein

9. Encarnacins Kitchen: Mexican Recipes from Nineteenth-Century California, Selections from Encarnacin Pinedos El cocinero espaol, by Encarnacin Pinedo, edited and translated by Dan Strehl, with an essay by Victor Valle

10. Zinfandel: A History of a Grape and Its Wine, by Charles L. Sullivan, with a foreword by Paul Draper

11. Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World, by Theodore C. Bestor

12. Born Again Bodies: Flesh and Spirit in American Christianity, by R. Marie Griffith

13. Our Overweight Children: What Parents, Schools, and Communities Can Do to Control the Fatness Epidemic, by Sharron Dalton

14. The Art of Cooking: The First Modern Cookery Book, by The Eminent Maestro Martino of Como, edited and with an introduction by Luigi Ballerini, translated and annotated by Jeremy Parzen, and with fifty modernized recipes by Stefania Barzini

15. The Queen of Fats: Why Omega-3s Were Removed from the Western Diet and What We Can Do to Replace Them, by Susan Allport

16. Meals to Come: A History of the Future of Food, by Warren Belasco

17. The Spice Route: A History, by John Keay

18. Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic World: A Concise History with Recipes, by Lilia Zaouali, translated by M.B. DeBevoise, with a foreword by Charles Perry

19. Arranging the Meal: A History of Table Service in France, by Jean-Louis Flandrin, translated by Julie E. Johnson, with Sylvie and Antonio Roder; with a foreword to the English-language edition by Beatrice Fink

20. The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir, by Amy B. Trubek

21. Food: The History of Taste, edited by Paul Freedman

22. M.F.K. Fisher among the Pots and Pans: Celebrating Her Kitchens, by Joan Reardon, with a foreword by Amanda Hesser

23. Cooking: The Quintessential Art, by Herv This and Pierre Gagnaire, translated by M.B. DeBevoise

24. Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century, by Laura Shapiro

25. Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making, by Jeri Quinzio

26. Encyclopedia of Pasta, by Oretta Zanini De Vita, translated by Maureen B. Fant, with a foreword by Carol Field

27. Tastes and Temptations: Food and Art in Renaissance Italy, by John Varriano

28. Free for All: Fixing School Food in America, by Janet Poppendieck

29. Breaking Bread: Recipes and Stories from Immigrant Kitchens, by Lynne Christy Anderson, with a foreword by Corby Kummer

30. Culinary Ephemera: An Illustrated History, by William Woys Weaver

31. Eating Mud Crabs in Kandahar: Stories of Food during Wartime by the Worlds Leading Correspondents, edited by Matt McAllester

32. Weighing In: Obesity, Food Justice, and the Limits of Capitalism, by Julie Guthman

33. Why Calories Count: From Science to Politics, by Marion Nestle and Malden Nesheim

34. Curried Cultures: Globalization, Food, and South Asia, edited by Krishnendu Ray and Tulasi Srinivas

35. The Cookbook Library: Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook, by Anne Willan, with Mark Cherniavsky and Kyri Claflin

36. Coffee Life in Japan, by Merry White

37. American Tuna: The Rise and Fall of an Improbable Food, by Andrew F. Smith

38. A Feast of Weeds: A Literary Guide to Foraging and Cooking Wild Edible Plants, by Luigi Ballerini, translated by Gianpiero W. Doebler, with recipes by Ada De Santis and illustrations by Giuliano Della Casa

39. The Philosophy of Food, by David M. Kaplan

40. Beyond Hummus and Falafel: Social and Political Aspects of Palestinian Food in Israel, by Liora Gvion, translated by David Wesley and Elana Wesley

41. The Life of Cheese: Crafting Food and Value in America, by Heather Paxson

42. Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds: Recipes and Lore from Rome and Lazio, by Oretta Zanini De Vita, translated by Maureen B. Fant, foreword by Ernesto Di Renzo

43. Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in World History, by Rachel Laudan

44. Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness, by Joyce Goldstein, with Dore Brown

45. Cumin, Camels, and Caravans: A Spice Odyssey, by Gary Paul Nabhan

46. Balancing on a Planet: Critical Thinking and Effective Action for the Future of Food and Agriculture, by David A. Cleveland

47. The Darjeeling Distinction: Labor and Justice on Fair Trade Tea Plantations in India, by Sarah Besky

48. How the Other Half Ate: A History of Working-Class Meals at the Turn of the Century, by Katherine Leonard Turner

49. The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze, by George Solt

50. Word of Mouth: What We Talk About When We Talk About Food, by Priscilla Ferguson

How the Other Half Ate

A HISTORY OF WORKING-CLASS MEALS

AT THE TURN OF THE CENTURY

Katherine Leonard Turner

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS

BERKELEYLOS ANGELESLONDON

University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu.

University of California Press

Berkeley and Los Angeles, California

University of California Press, Ltd.

London, England

2014 by The Regents of the University of California

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Turner, Katherine Leonard.

How the other half ate : a history of working class meals at the turn of the century / Katherine Leonard Turner.

p.cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 978-0-520-27757-1 (cloth, alk. paper) ISBN 978-0-520-27758-8 (pbk., alk. paper) ISBN 978-0-520-95761-9 (electronic)

1. Food habitsUnited StatesHistory19th century.2. Food habitsUnited StatesHistory20th century.3. Working classUnited StatesSocial conditions.4. Working classUnited StatesSocial life and customs.5. Working classUnited StatesEconomic conditions.I. Title.

GT2853.U5T872014

394.12dc232013029503

Manufactured in the United States of America

23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

In keeping with a commitment to support environmentally responsible and sustainable printing practices, UC Press has printed this book on Natures Natural, a fiber that contains 30% post-consumer waste and meets the minimum requirements of ANSI/NISO Z 39.48-1992 ( R 1997) ( Permanence of Paper ).

For Brian, Milo, and Felix

CONTENTS