Dilaram Shabab - Kullu: The Valley of Gods

Hay House Publishers (India) Pvt. Ltd.

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Copyright 2019 Dilaram Shabab

The views and opinions expressed in this book are the author's own and the facts are as reported by him. They have been verified to the extent possible, and the publishers are not in any way liable for the same.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, by any mechanical, photographic, or electronic process, or in the form of a phonographic recording, nor may it be stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or otherwise be copied for public or private use other than for fair use as brief quotations embodied in articles and reviews without prior written permission of the publisher.

Cover pictures Sonali Verma, FreePik, Creative Commons

ISBN 978-93-86832-91-7

ISBN 978-93-86832-92-4 (e-book)

Printed and bound at

Rajkamal Electric Press, Kundli, Sonipat, Haryana (India)

Dedicated to
The gods and goddesses
of Kullu

with a prayer brighter
be the light that guides
the destiny of mankind

Part I
PICKING UP THE PIECES

Chapter 1
The Heavenly Abode of the Divine

Chapter 2
The Advent of a Dynasty

Chapter 3
Flavour of the British Raj

Chapter 4
Winds of Change

Part II
IMAGES OF THE BLESSED COUNTRY

Chapter 1
Sights and Sounds of the Village Gods

Chapter 2
TemplesMonuments of Faith

Chapter 3
Fairs and Festivals

Chapter 4
Traditional Arts and Crafts

Part III
RETRACING THE FOOTPRINTS OF THE DIVINE

Chapter 1
Shringi RishiThe Chief Deity

Chapter 2
Bahu JoginisAn Embodiment of Divine Light

Chapter 3
Silvery Heights of the HimalayasShrikhand Mahadev Trek

Chapter 4
Bijli Mahadev Temple

Chapter 5
The Contours of Raktisar

Part IV
AREAS OF ATTRACTION

Chapter 1
Forts and Castles

Chapter 2
VipashaLiberator from the Bondage

Chapter 3
MalanaA Solitary Village

Chapter 4
Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports (ABVIMAS)

Chapter 5
The Great Himalayan National Park

Part V
IN THE CORRIDORS OF HIMALAYAN SPLENDOUR

Chapter 1
The Rohtang Pass

Chapter 2
The Tirthan Valley

Chapter 3
The Slopes of Kullu

Chapter 4
Chanderkhani PassParadise on Earth

Chapter 5
The Hot Water Springs of Manikaran and Kheerganga

Chapter 6
The Lure of Jalori Pass

Part VI
A PROFILE IN CONTRAST

Chapter 1
Farm Sector and Apple Boom

Chapter 2
Trout Country

Chapter 3
Ecotourism

Chapter 4
Last Days of the Roerichs

Chapter 5
The Changing Face of Manali

Chapter 6
Fairyland at Crossroads

I NEVER THOUGHT THAT I SHALL HAVE TO WRITE ANOTHER book on Kullu. My first book, Kullu: Himalayan Abode of the Divine, was well-received not only in India, but globally, too. I did not expect that the book would reach London University and catch the curiosity of Professor Colin Rosser, a well-known anthropologist. He had spent more than two years in the early fifties in the village of Malana (Parvati Valley) conducting research on Jamadagni Rishi (Jamlu Devta) and the system adopted by the locals. On his return to England in late 1953, he wrote a dissertation on Malana.

Dr Rosser was quite interested in reading the book, and, in a letter, he asked me to write a second book on Kullu that may cover a wider range of topics such as the social and political issues of both the past and present.

Likewise, my friend and guide, Dr O.C. Handa, an outstanding Scholar on the Western Himalayas and former fellow of the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies (IIAS), Shimla and editor of the History of Indian Science and Technology (HIST), had made a similar suggestion to me. After a slow start, I picked up the substance and, gradually, all the pieces fell into place.

Winston Churchill, former British prime minister, once said, Writing a book is an adventure: it begins with amusement, then it becomes a mistress, then a master, and, finally, a tyrant. The same was true in my case. I found the chapters Retracing the Footprints of the Divine and In the Corridors of Himalayan Splendour psychologically most challenging. These chapters formed the core area of my study, and they consumed a lot of my physical and mental strength. Nevertheless, it was rewarding to discover the varied experiences spread across the mountain ranges and deep river valleys where the divine saints and sages had found peace and solace.

As the reader goes through the pages of this book, she/he will begin a journey that takes her/him to the fascinating world of village gods and goddesses, Himalayan architecture, luxuriant forests, fauna and flora, exotic handicrafts, colourful fairs and festivals, scintillating music, folk dance, and much more.

BLESSED BY THE VILLAGE GODS AND TREASURED BY sacred shrines and ancient wooden temples, Kullu is rich in history, heritage, natural beauty, and native character.

Popularly known as The Valley of Gods, Kullu is a unique blend of faith and Indo-Aryan culture. For centuries, it has enamoured sages and prophets, merchants and missionaries, and adventurers and travellers in search of enlightenment, peace of mind, and study of the soul.

Centres of spiritual learning and philosophy of life established here by a galaxy of the greatest Rishis (sages) of the Vedic times such as Vyasa, Vashisht, Vishwamitra, Manu, and others, are intimately associated with the ancient civilisation of Kullu.

In recent times, among the genius of the highest order, Nicholas Roerich, an apostle of beauty, a messenger of culture, mighty warrior of the spirit, and the master of the Himalayas, had made Kullu Valley his home and the last resting place.

Kullu Valleys hill resorts have been described as unspoilt and undisturbed. Misty mountains, deep hidden valleys, and miles of apple plantations are the products of natures marvel. The headwaters of the high peaks are the places of veneration and sanctity from the time immemorial. For the new generation, these landmarks have become a symbol of better world to explore and celebrate.

The valley is deeply ingrained in traditions and rituals. Soul-stirring music, folk songs, and fairs and festivals mark the vibrant lifestyle of the people. The famous Kullu Dussehra connects the past with the present.

In deep recesses of the countryside, where Kullu lives in the villages, the folk art is weaved in Kullu shawls that are adorned in exquisite patterns and designs. The indigenous art of metal works such as devta masks and statues, musical instruments, and silver and gold ornaments are the finest specimens of the folk art.

An earnest effort has been made to make this book interesting, blended with nostalgic aroma of the past and the present-day socio-economic transformations. Undoubtedly, Kullu is the place where the ancient, medieval, and modern meet.

Nicholas Roerich was a Russian painter, writer, archaeologist, theosophist, perceived by some in Russia as an enlightener, philosopher, and public figure, who in his youth was influenced by a movement in Russian society around the spiritual.