Gordon - Persia Revisited

[Illustration: H.I.M. Nasr-ed-Din, The Late Shah, on the steps of the Peacock Throne]

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(1895)

(1896)

Formerly Military Attach and Oriental Secretary to Her Majesty's Legation at Tehran.

Author of 'The Roof of the World'

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On revisiting Tehran last autumn, I was struck with the evidence of progress and improvement in Persia, and on returning home I formed the idea of publishing a short account of my journey, with observations and opinions which are based on my previous experiences, and have reference also to what has been recorded by others. In carrying out this idea, I have made use of information given in the well-known books on Persia by Malcolm, Fraser, Watson and Curzon.

'Persia Revisited,' as first written, comprised up to Chapter VI. of the book; but just as I had finished it for publication, the sad news of the assassination of the Shah, Nasr-ed-Din, was received. I then saw that my book, to be complete, should touch on the present situation in Persia, and accordingly I added two chapters which deal with the new Shah and his brothers, and the Sadr Azem and the succession.

The illustrations are from photographs by M. Sevragine of Tehran, with the exception of the likeness of H.I.M. the Shah Mozuffer-ed-Din, and that of H.H. Ali Asghar Khan, Sadr Azem, which latter, by Messrs. W. and D. Downey, of Ebury Street, London, is published by their kind permission.

May, 1896.

London to Baku
Oil-wells and works
Persians abroad
Caspian steamers
Caspian salmon
Enzelli lagoon
The Jews in Persia
Resht trade
'My eye'
Russian road
The tobacco 'strike,' 1891
Collapse of Tobacco Rgie
Moulla opposition

The late Shah's long reign
His camp life
Habits
Appearance
Persian Telegraph Intelligence Department
Farming the revenues
Condition of the people
The shoe question
The Customs
Importation of arms
Martini-Henry rifles
Indo-European telegraph

Kasvin grapes
Persian wine
Vineyards in Persia
Wine manufacture
Mount Demavend
Afshar volcanic region
Quicksilver and gold
Tehran water-supply
Village quarrels
Vendetta
Tehran tramways
Bread riots
Mint and copper coin

Religious tolerance in Tehran
Katie Greenfield's case
Babi sect
Liberal opinions
German enterprise in Persia
Railways in Asia Minor
Russian road extension
Railways to Persian frontiers
The Karun River
Trade development
The Kajar dynasty
Life titles
Chieftainship of tribes
Sanctuary
The Pearl cannon

The military tribes and the royal guard
Men of the people as great monarchs
Persian sense of humour
Nightingales and poetry
Legendary origin of the royal emblem
Lion and Sun
Ancient Golden Eagle emblem
The Blacksmith's Apron the royal standard

The Order of the Lion and the Sun
Rex and Dido
Dervishes
Endurance of Persian horses
The Shah's stables
The sanctuary of the stable
Long-distance races
A country of horses
The gymkhana in Tehran
Olive industry near Resht
Return journey
Grosnoje oil field
Russian railway travelling
Improved communication with Tehran

Shrine of Shah Abdul Azim
Death of Nasr-ed-Din Shah
Jemal-ed-Din in Tehran
Shiahs and Sunnis
Islam in Persia

The Shah Mozuffer-ed-Din
His previous position at Tabriz
Character and disposition
His sons
Accession to the throne
Previous accessions in the Kajar-dynasty
Regalia and crown jewels
Position of the late Shah's two sons, Zil-es-Sultan and Naib-es-Sultaneh
The Sadr Azem (Grand Vazir)
Prompt action on the death of the late Shah

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'El Sultan, Bin el Sultan, Bin el Sultan, Bin el Sultan. El Sultan, Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar.'

'The King, Son of the King, Son of the King, Son of the King. The King, Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar line.'

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London to Baku
Oil-wells and works
Persians abroad
Caspian steamers
Caspian salmon
Enzelli lagoon
The Jews in Persia
Resht trade
'My eye'
Russian road
The tobacco 'strike,' 1891
Collapse of Tobacco Rgie
Moulla opposition.

The Persians, as a people still nomadic in their habits, and much given to long pilgrimages, have good knowledge of the ways and means of making a journey pleasant. Their saying, 'Avval rafk, baad tark' (First a companion, then the road), is one which most travellers can fully appreciate. Accordingly, when planning a trip in the autumn of 1895 to the Land of Iran, I cast about for a companion, and was fortunate enough to meet with two friends, both going that way, and who, moreover, like myself, had previously journeyed in Persia.

We decided to take the Odessa route to Batoum, and we went by Berlin, Oderberg, and Lemberg. At Odessa we found that a less expensive, and more comfortable, though perhaps half a day longer route, lies by Warsaw. On that line there are fewer changes, and only one Customs examination, whereas by, Oderberg there are two examinations, Austrian and Russian. Moreover, through tickets are issued vi Warsaw, a convenience not provided vi Oderbergfresh tickets and re-booking of luggage being necessary there, and again both at Pod Voloczyska and Voloczyska, on the Austrian and Russian frontiers. We came in for a crowded train of first-class passengers going from the Vienna direction to Jalta, a favourite seaside place in the Crimea, which has two fashionable seasonsspring and autumn. These people were making for the accelerated mail-steamer, which leaves Odessa for Batoum every Wednesday during the summer service, touching at Sebastopol, Jalta, and Novorossisk. We were making for the same steamer, and found crowded cabins. The mass of luggage to be examined at Voloczyska caused much confusion and delay, and it was only by discreetly managed appeals to the working staff that we were able to push our way and pass on, without anything being left behind. There appeared to be orders for very special examination of books and papers at Voloczyska, and these were carried out in a foolishly perfunctory manner. In my luggage, the man who searched passed over a bulky tourist writing-case, but carried off to a superior a Continental Bradshaw, a blank notebook, and a packet of useful paper, notwithstanding my open show of their innocence. The man soon returned with another official, who smiled at the mistake, and good naturedly helped to close up my baggage.