Table of Contents
Training for Climbing
Training for Climbing is a great resource. Whether youre just starting out or already ticking 5.13, youll find valuable information here to help you climb harder. This is the most complete and up-to-date training guide available. Better yet, its presented in a clean and easily understandable format, with inspiring and illustrative photos.
Rock and Ice magazine
Eric Hrst has taken complex scientific training concepts and integrated these with contemporary research on climbing to produce a very readable and useful training guide. This book will lead the climber to new heights of performance.
Phillip B. Watts, PhD, exercise physiologist
and climbing researcher, Northern Michigan University
Hrst is uniquely positioned to bring current methods in sports psychology and exercise science to the world of climbing, and he has hit the mark in superb style! If you are passionate about climbing and getting better, Training for Climbing will become your dog-eared companion!
Richard K. Fleming, PhD, assistant professor
of psychology, University of Massachusetts Medical School
With comprehensive textbook-like descriptions of nutrition, recovery, weight training, and structured workouts, Training for Climbing is a crucial addition to your climbing library. Use this book to make 5.13 a reality instead of just a dream.
Michelle Hurni, author of Coaching Climbing
Reader Reviews from Around the World
I want to tell you that Training for Climbing is clearly the best and most comprehensive book on climbing training methodology I have ever read. In particular, the chapters on mental training and skills/strategy training have inspired me and given me extremely valuable insights for my future workouts. Thanks for such a great work!
Guido (Switzerland)
I have just read your book Training for Climbing , and I think it is great!
Sven (Croatia)
Eric, just wanted to say thanks for writing Training for Climbing . Since I started reading it and training, I have improved tremendously. I am having a great time doing the strength-training exercises and just enjoying the process of climbing with a different mentality.
Carlos (California)
Thank you, Mr. Hrst, for helping me achieve my first 5.12a just a few days ago!
Hiroyasu (Japan)
Hi Eric, Ive just finished reading Training for Climbing great work! Over the last 14 years I have studied climbing and to date your book is by far the most accessible to average climbers.
Paul (Australia)
I read a quote from your training book and consequently bought it. This book has changed my whole attitude in climbing and life due to your mental training chapter. Just wanted to say thank you!
Scott (Pennsylvania)
Thanks for your great books, Eric. I have read them allthey are the best!
Ofer (Israel)
What a great book! Your HIT workout definitely gave me much more strength. Thank you very much for your great work, Eric!
Andre (California)
Hi Eric, I read your book Training for Climbing . I think it is the best book in the field.
Roberto (Ecuador)
To buy books in quantity for corporate use or incentives, call (800) 962-0973 or e-mail premiums@GlobePequot.com .
Copyright 2003, 2008 by Eric J. Hrst
Portions of this book are based on information from Flash Training by Eric J. Hrst, previously published by Falcon Publishing and Chockstone Press.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the publisher. Requests for permission should be addressed to The Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights and Permissions Department, P.O. Box 480, Guilford CT 06437.
Falcon, FalconGuides, and Chockstone are registered trademarks of The Globe Pequot Press.
All interior photos are by the author unless otherwise noted.
Exercise photos depicting the author are by Lisa Ann Hrst.
Text design: Casey Shain
Chart design: Mary Ballachino
Illustrations: Judy Newhouse unless otherwise noted
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hrst, Eric J.
Training for climbing : the definitive guide to improving your performance / Eric Horst.2nd ed.
p. cm.(A Falcon guide)
ISBN: 978-0-7627-4692-7
1. Rock climbingTraining. I. Title.
GV200.2.H685 2008
796.5223dc22
2008006490
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Warning: Climbing is a dangerous sport. You can be seriously injured or die. Read the following before you use this book.
This is an instruction book about rock climbing, a sport that is inherently dangerous. Do not depend solely on information from this book for your personal safety. Your climbing safety depends on your own judgment based on competent instruction, experience, and a realistic assessment of your climbing ability.
The training and nutritional advice given in this book are the authors opinions. Consult your physician before engaging in any part of the training and nutritional program described by the author.
There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, that this instruction book contains accurate and reliable information. There are no warranties as to fitness for a particular purpose or that this book is merchantable. Your use of this book indicates your assumption of the risk of death or serious injury as a result of climbings risks and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your safety in climbing or in training for climbing.
The Globe Pequot Press and the author assume no liability for accidents happening to, or injuries sustained by, readers who engage in the activities described in this book.
To two of the strongest, most innovative
and humble men ever to pull down
on rock: the Master of Rock John Gill
and the late, great Wolfgang Gllich.
The author on Welcome to Conditioning (5.12d/5.13a), New River Gorge, West Virginia. ERIC McCALLISTER
Speed climbing on the classic East Buttress of El Capitan,Yosemite, California ERIC J. McCALLISTER
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Writing a book is an Everest-like undertaking. It is a team effort that takes many months or years to plan and execute, but getting to the summit still takes an immense individual effort and an indomitably singular focus.
Having completed this climb, I reflect on all that has brought me to this pointthe thousands of wonderful days Ive spent on the rock, the countless climbers from around the world Ive had the pleasure to meet, and the dozens of partners I am grateful to have shared a rope with. Learning to climb is a long, continuous process with no end, and I thank all the people who have influenced me from my days as a wide-eyed teenage rock jock to a forty-something veteran climber. I must thank directly John Gill, the late Wolfgang Gllich, Lynn Hill, John Long, Jim McCarthy, Pat Ament, Richard Goldstone, John Bachar, Mark Robinson, the late and legendary Todd Skinner, and Tony Yaniroall of you, knowingly or unknowingly, have inspired me and contributed to this book in some way.
