Arno Ilgner - The Rock Warriors Way: Mental Training for Climbers

The Rock Warriors Way

Copyright 2003 by Arno Ilgner. Foreword copyright 2003 by John Long. All rights reserved. No portion of this book, except for brief passages used in review, may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the publisher.

Published by
Desiderata Institute
315 Oakwood Cove
La Vergne, TN 37086
USA
www.warriorsway.com

Project editor: Jeff Achey

Book design: Jeff Achey,
Cover design: Tracy Martin,
Warriors Way logo design: Jeff Stamper, www.jeffstamper.com

Printed in the United States of America by
Vaughan Printing, Nashville, TN
www.vaughanprinting.com

Critical Acclaim for The Rock Warriors Way

When I was at the peak of my climbing career I didnt fully understand why I was successful. I wasnt stronger physically than other climbers but I knew a passion drove me. Now I know what some of the elements of my success were that I couldnt articulate. Warriors Way has given me some ideas on how to improve my climbing and my life today. Ive read the book twice now and it will be a frequent resource for the future.

Henry Barber

This is the first book Ive seen that addresses, in depth, the inner game of climbing, and its about time. In a growing climbing community of specialization, this book gives a new look at climbing and healthy self analysis for almost everyone involved in the sport.

Jim Bridwell

As a devoted rock climber, I am always looking for tools to make me more successful. But rarely do I come across a tool as powerful as The Rock Warriors Way . The principles in Arnos book drastically raised my awareness and helped solidify a goal Ive been working on for three years Flex Luthor .

Tommy Caldwell

Reading The Rock Warriors Way reminds me of my past. This book is full of the tools that I learned to trust during my competition career. I believe this book will help climbers raise their level of power without any additional training.

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, four-time World Cup sport-climbing champion

The Rock Warriors Way is an excellent treatise on recognizing and overcoming psychological barriers to reaching ones full climbing potential. Borrowing from a variety of sources, Ilgner has designed a program he calls the Seven Processes, having as its underlying premise the impeccable use of attention. Carlos Castanedas books about the Indian sorcerer don Juan Matus have long attracted the attention and praise of climbers, and the author has seamlessly woven into his program many of the salient principles taught by this mystical character. Perceiving a climb as a journey, set in motion by intent, is a powerful stimulus for success, as this reviewer can personally attest.

John Gill

Warriors Way identifies and names weaknesses within our intuitive selves. Once a problem is recognized, it becomes a solvable challenge. All climbers will recognize patterns from their own lives within the text.

Lisa Gnade

When I first climbed with Arno some 20 years ago, I admired his poise on the rock, his boldness on the lead, and his calm in the face of all obstacles. After reading The Rock Warriors Way , I understand the depth of thinking behind his composure, the inner quiet that frees his mind for pure climbing. He seems to have mastered all the mental demons that hold one back on rock and ice, and this book tells me how to slay them in myself. Now I have a plan: to reread this book and let it transform my climbing from within. Then Ill give it to my partners.

John Harlin III, Editor , American Alpine Journal

Climbing performance evolves from the inside out and Arno Ilgner beautifully dissects this nebulous subject in The Rock Warriors Way . Drawing on his 30 years of climbing experience as well as a wealth of timeless wisdom, Ilgner presents a compelling seven-step process to becoming a master of your internal mental environment. Consistent, disciplined application of this books many strategies will not only enhance the quality of your climbing, but it will make you a more skilled risk taker in all aspects of your life.

Eric J. Hrst, personal trainer, author of Training for Climbing

I have long held confidence in the theories this book describes.

Leo Houlding

The Rock Warriors Way is a timely contribution to raise our awareness. Arno makes a bold move with a humble approach that reaches for a higher level of life on the rock.

Ron Kauk

If you can master even a few of the many concepts that Arno Ilgner promotes in The Rock Warriors Way , your climbing may be transformed. The most memorable point to me was Arnos lesson about improving your climbing by learning to deal with falling. This reminded me of Jorge Visser learning the same lesson at the Virgin River Gorge. The last 30-foot section of Captain Fantastic (5.13c) is a run-out to the anchors with a subtle but kind of scary finish. (We call that salsa.) It is a dramatic, final place to fail with the 13c already well below. Jorge logged a number of 30- to 60-foot falls on this section. His fear of falling turned into a relaxation about falling. He learned to deal with falling and that helped pave an important part of his road to 5.14. He was transformed.

Randy Leavitt

When the climb is done, whats left? The experience! The Rock Warriors Way will help you choreograph your experience through a full-frontal dance with the beautiful and demanding realities of our sport. Youll learn to relinquish the Ego-driven yearning for external success and recognition, in favor of allowing your spirit its love-driven embrace of climbing and life. This is a landmark work!

Jeff Lowe

The Rock Warriors Way describes the amazing potential of human will once the ego is tamed, and is full of insight on honing the mental aspects of concentrated effort. It will help you better understand the spiritual awareness that comes when engaging in a challenging pursuit, and make you more likely to retain that understanding after the adrenaline wears off. This is a great book for learning about the rock climber within.

John Middendorf

Arno has managed to put into simple words the psychological processes that we struggle with as climbers. Most of us have practiced to various degrees the lessons and principles held within these pages, but none has ever truly mastered them. Arno breaks down the positive and negative chatter that runs through our minds before, during, and after a climb. Then, using climbing analogies we can all relate to, he shows us how to follow our personal paths to greater knowledge, growth, and ultimately success.

Scott Milton

The mental aspects of climbing can be extremely difficult to master. If used correctly, the Warriors Way can be more useful than any amount of physical training and can push you to new levels.