Fu - The other milk reinventing soy in Republican China

REINVENTING SOY IN REPUBLICAN CHINA

REINVENTING SOY IN REPUBLICAN CHINA

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UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON PRESS Seattle

The Other Milk was made possible in part by grants from the Association for Asian Studies First Book Subvention Program and the Chiang Ching-kuo Foundation for International Scholarly Exchange. Additional support was provided by the Emory College of Arts and Sciences and the Emory Laney Graduate School.

A Study of the Weatherhead East Asian Institute of Columbia University

The Studies of the Weatherhead East Asian Institute of Columbia University were inaugurated in 1962 to bring to a wider public the results of significant new research on modern and contemporary East Asia.

Copyright 2018 by the University of Washington Press

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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOG INC-IN-PUBLICATION DATA

Names Fu, ]ia-Chen, author.

Title The other milk reinventingsoy in Republican China/]ia-Chen Fu. Description Seattle: University of Washington Press, [2018] | Includes

bibliographical references and index. |

Identifiers lccn 2018011125 (print) | lccn 2018017624 (ebook) |

isbn 9780295744056 (ebook) I isbn 9780295744049 (hardcover alk. paper) | isbn 9780295744032 (paperback alk. paper)

Subjects lcsh SoymilkNutritionChina. | SoymilkChina. | Dairy substitutes.

Classification: lcc TX401.2.S69 (ebook) | lcc TX401.2.S69 F85 2018 (print) | ddc 641.3/097dc23

lc record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2o18o11125

For Zelda and JZ

Acknowledgments ix

Introduction 3

chapter 1. The Romance of the Bean Rethinking the Soybean as Technology and Modern Commodity 19

chapter 2. The Light of Modern Knowledge Accountability and the Concept of the Chinese Diet 41

chapter 3. Of Quality and Protein Building a Scientific Argument of Chinese Nutritional Inadequacy 69

chapter 4. Which Milk? Soybean Milk for Growth and Development 89

chapter 5. Doujiang 2is Milk Hybrid Modernity in Soybean Milk Advertisements 109

chapter 6. The Rise of Scientific Soybean Milk Nutritional Activism in Times of Crisis 129

chapter 7. The Gospel of Soy Local Realities and the Tension between Profit and Relief 153

Epilogue. Negotiating Past and Future through the Soybean 177

Chinese Character Glossary 191 Notes 195 Bibliography 231 Index 259

I have benefited enormously from the patience and kindness of many. I would like to thank Jonathan Spence, Beatrice Bartlett, Annping Chin, Paul Gilroy, Susan Lederer, Mary Ting Yi Lui, and Peter Perdue for their steadfast support of my research. Judith Farquhar made some crucial suggestions that steered me toward (new-to-me) anthropological scholarship and challenged my thinking on the interplay between the material and human worlds. I have been fortunate to be able to present this research in a variety of formats, where people asked unexpected questions and suggested fruitful leads.

I especially want to thank Bride Andrews, Ina Asim, Nicole Barnes, Josep Barona, Alexander Bay, Morris Bian, Liping Bu, Daniel Buck, Janet Chen, Robert J. Culp, ICatarzyna Cwierka, Lorraine Daston, Fa-ti Fan, David Gentilcore, Ian Hacking, Charles Hayford, Christian Henriot, Danian Hu, Michelle T. King, Chunghao Pio Kuo, Tong Lam, Seung-joon Lee, Victoria Lee, Sean Hsiang-lin Lei, Angela ICi Che Leung, Xun Liu, Rana Mitter, Rebecca Nedostup, Margaret Ng, Caroline Reeves, Naomi Rogers, Fran-^oise Sabban, Jordan Sand, Volker Scheid, Helen Schneider, Grace Shen, Shen Xiaoyun, Nathan Sivin, William Summers, Mark Swislocki, Joanna Waley-Cohen, Shellen Wu, Yi-li Wu, and Michelle Yeh. My former colleagues at Case Western Reserve University, Molly Berger, Ananya Dasgupta, David Hammack, Ken Ledford, Miriam Levin, Alan Rocke, Renee Sentilles, Peter Shulman, Jonathan Sadowsky, and Gillian Weiss, were a boundless source of inspiration and erudition. They fielded many a question and provided astute feedback on my writing. My colleagues at Emory University, Tonio Andrade, Jeffery Lesser, Meredith Schweig, and Maria Sibau, helped and advised me through the final stages and kept my spirits up. Rachel Laudan, David Luesink, and Tom Mullaney read and commented on portions of the manuscript that were probably not ready to be read Im grateful for their good humor and sharp eye. Cheryl Beredo graciously helped me obtain a copy of Leonard A. Maynards 1947 interview when getting to Ithaca, New York, wasnt practical. Audra Wolfe of The Outside Reader helped me identify the primary story I wanted to tell. Eric Karchmer and Hilary A. Smith, my steadfast writing companions, read many drafts of various chapters and always gave me smart ideas and suggestions for improvements.

I am grateful to the libraries and research institutions I visited over the years. My thanks goes out to the staff of the National Library of China, the Shanghai Municipal Library Republican Reading Room, the Shanghai Municipal Archives, the Second Historical Archives of China in Nanjing, the Jiangsu Provincial Archives, the Chongqing Municipal Archives, the Institute of Modern History Archives and Library at Academia Sinica, Academia Sinica in Taipei, the Harvard-Yenching Library, the Hoover Institution Archives, the New York Public Librarys Manuscript and Archives Division, the Mudd Manuscript Library at Princeton University, the Rockefeller Archive Center, the Wellcome Library in London, the National Archives at Kew, and SOAS University of London Librarys Special Collections. I would especially like to acknowledge the assistance of Martha Smalley and Joan Duffy at the Yale Divinity School Librarys Special Collections William Shurtleff of the Soyinfo Center in Lafayette, California Ye Li for helping me navigate the Chongqing Municipal Archives and John Moffett at the Needham Research Institute for allowing me to show up uninvited and work in the library.

A number of institutions and organizations supported the research and writing of this book. Research in China and elsewhere was supported by a Fulbright, travel grants from Yale Universitys Council on East Asian Studies and the Baker-Nord Center for Humanities at Case Western Reserve University, the W. P. Jones Presidential Faculty Fund, and a Flora Stone Mather fellowship from the Case Western Reserve University Department of History. I am grateful to the Association for Asian Studies and the Chiang Ching-kuo Foundation for International Scholarly Exchange for providing first-book subventions. Emory Universitys College of Arts and Sciences and Laney Graduate School defrayed publication costs.

I thank the University of Hawaii Press for permission to reuse, in chapter 4, portions of my article Confronting the Cow Soybean Milk and the Fashioning of a Chinese Dairy Alternative, in Moral Foods The Construction of Nutrition and Health in Modern Asia, edited by Angela Ki Che Leung and Melissa L. Caldwell (forthcoming), and I also thank Koninklijke Brill NV for permission to reuse, in chapters 5 and 6, portions of my article Scientizing