The Hidden Landscape
A Journey into the Geological Past
RICHARD FORTEY
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Published by The Bodley Head 2010
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Copyright Richard Fortey 2010
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Contents
For Rebecca, with love
BY THE SAME AUTHOR
Life: An Unauthorized Biography (1997)
Trilobite! Eyewitness to Evolution (2000)
Fossils: The Key to the Past (4th edition, 2009)
Earth: An Intimate History (2004)
Dry Store Room No. (2008)
List of illustrations
Section one
Section two
Inside front cover
The Geological map of Britain and Ireland (Geological Mapping, BGS NERC, Ordnance Survey Topography Crown Copyright. All rights reserved.
Appendix
Index Map (BGS NERC, Topography HarperCollins Publishers Ltd, 2005)
Acknowledgements
The first edition of The Hidden Landscape was commissioned by Heather Godwin. Heather has been a supportive friend and a perceptive critic through four subsequent books. This new edition was suggested by Will Sulkin, at The Bodley Head. Kay Peddle handled the editing of this updated version with patience and good humour. Several of my colleagues at the Natural History Museum were most helpful in the original production. I should mention Robin Cocks particularly, who read the first manuscript and improved it in several ways. The British Geological Survey has been an excellent source of illustrations, as in the previous edition, and their Picture Library is gratefully acknowledged. Jo Desmond and Derek Siveter kindly supplied additional photographs. But the greatest contribution to this edition came from my wife Jacqueline, who not only read through the text with care, but also helped to update the whole book. She took many of the photographs used in this edition as we travelled around Britain. I dont believe it would have happened without her.
Preface to the first edition
The recent popularisation of science is part of a modern passion for explanation. Most books in this genre are concerned with exposing the mechanics of the space/time continuum, or the workings of the body, by stripping down the complexity of the world to its components. The intention is to show that, deep down, everything is readily comprehensible. At the end one is much the wiser, but as when a complex conjuring trick is explained as a mere mechanical contrivance there lingers a vague feeling of disappointment. Somehow, the enjoyment of the trick is more satisfying than the explanation.
When Heather Godwin asked me to write a book with the geology of Britain as its theme I decided to avoid the purely analytical path. Instead, what I wish to explore are the connections between geology and landscape the deeper, geological reality that underpins natural history, and even our own activities. I want to celebrate the richness of the geological history of our islands, and to show how events that happened hundreds of millions of years ago still control the lie of the land and the plants that grow upon it. The intention is to enrich the readers awareness of our extraordinary past.
This intention makes my geology a more personal account. I will explore curious byways of the landscape as much as narrating its geological history. Jacquetta Hawkess book, A Land, was published more than half a century ago. It was one of the books that inspired me to take up science; the facts on which that book was based are now somewhat out of date, but the inspiration remains. If I can stimulate a sense of wonder in a similar way, this book will have succeeded.
There has to be an historical narrative, which, as it happens, runs broadly in tandem with the geography of Britain. Lying beneath the thin skin of recorded history in our islands, geology has the same role in landscape as does the unconscious mind in psychology: ubiquitous but concealed. This is the hidden landscape.
Preface to the second edition
The Hidden Landscape is seventeen years old in 2010. Fortunately, my approach to understanding the landscape and history of Britain still remains appropriate today. After all, the rocks do not change, and geological time is indifferent to mere decades. I have been encouraged by letters from readers who have found that an understanding of the geological underpinning of our landscape has added to their appreciation of the countryside. Indeed, a few of those who read this book have been inspired to undertake formal study of geology.
Scientific understanding of many aspects of British geology has continued to develop, as should happen in any discipline. Now that I have an opportunity to produce this second edition I can introduce some new geological facts where appropriate, and correct a few mistakes that survived from before. I have added a new final chapter reflecting on how our future exploitation of the landscape might still respect the geological truth beneath.
Towns are not necessarily in opposition to the natural landscape: those that grow naturally out of the local geology seem to sit comfortably within it. We are fortunate in Britain in having a wonderfully complex patchwork quilt of geology, and that is partly why our ancient towns and villages are so various and so delightful. Respect for the hidden landscape was once a matter of local convenience, but now must be a matter of choice as building methods have become so homogenized. The richness of the landscape of our islands is one of the things that makes life worth living, and that is all down to the geology.