Lonely Planet - Lonely Planet ePocket Athens

By Alexis Averbuck, Writer
Athens in the early morning is a treat to behold. When I visit, I always make sure to explore during those quiet initial hours when the stores are just opening, the views are unobstructed and the air is cool. Then, as the day heats up, along with the action, catch the ride: through elegant museums, chaotic shopping streets, verdant oases, all surrounding that impeccable monument, the Acropolis. The other extreme, the night, is when the citys world-class restaurant and bar scene comes alive better hope youve had a siesta.

Tavernas are neighbourhood anchors. A psarotaverna focuses on seafood; a hasapotaverna or psistaria does meat. Also casual, a mayirio specialises in home-style stews and baked dishes (mayirefta). More formal is the estiatorio, with cloth on the tables.

Casual ouzeries and mezedhopoleia both serve small plates with drinks. Souvlaki (aka kalamaki) is Athens favourite fast food; restaurants that do these grilled meat skewers usually also do gyros (slivers of meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie).

What Looks Good

In summer, an empty room doesnt necessarily mean bad it could just be that everyone is on the roof terrace or in the courtyard.

At family-run places, its normal to go into the kitchen to see the days dishes.

For other tips on ordering, see Menu Advice.

Best Traditional Greek

The corner butcher, reimagined as a restaurant.

Simple taverna smack in the middle of downtown.

Legendary cheap lunch spot near the central market.

Super-rustic Cretan specialities.

The freshest seafood, simply prepared.

Best Mezedhes

Watch the Psyrri scene from a little table at this sweet corner bar-cafe.

at this Plaka courtyard spot.

Laid-back spot in Exarhia for delish small plates.

At this converted school youll learn about the vast variety of seasonal Greek food.

Best Modern Greek

High-concept, creative, contemporary tasting menus.

Thisios entry, with Mediterranean flair.

The best of Athens modern tavernas.

A beautiful garden setting and Michelin-lauded food.

Ambitious mystery tasting menus.

Best Snacks and Sweets

Excellent-quality meat goes into the skewers at this rockin souvlaki joint.

Fresh, healthy and spicy a budget diners best friend.

Spinach and cheese pies, cookies and treats, made in the most traditional way.

Sumptuous gelato and sorbet.

Eat your souvlaki standing.

Standard Practices

Athenians start eating dinner around 9pm.

For trendy restaurants, book ahead on weekends (try www.e-table.gr) or go early.

Plates are typically not cleared until you ask for the bill (and you must ask for it).

Bar Open

In Athens the line between cafe and bar is blurry. Most places segue from coffee to drinks, and maybe music and a DJ, at night. There is usually food although places that serve only drinks have become more common. The smoking ban is often ignored.