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Birkby Robert - Mountain madness: Scott Fischer, Mount Everest & a life lived on high

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Birkby Robert Mountain madness: Scott Fischer, Mount Everest & a life lived on high
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Table of Contents Acknowledgments I am deeply indebted to the Fischer - photo 1
Table of Contents

Acknowledgments

I am deeply indebted to the Fischer family for sharing so much of Scott with meScotts parents Gene and Shirley Fischer, sisters Lisa Fischer-Luchenbach and Rhonda Fischer, wife Jeannie Price, and children Andy and Katie Rose Fischer-Price.

I am also grateful that so many who found adventure with Scott have told me about their experiences. Of great assistance, too, have been those who helped me understand the significance of what I was hearing, and those who helped me find the words that matched the subject:

Michael AllisonMike Burns
Stacy AllisonSarah Calhoun
Helen AndersenPatty Calver
Pete AthansPaul Calver
Randy AtonBruce Cartwright
Neal BeidlemanRandy Cerf
Leila BergDana Coffield
Wally BergMichael Crehore
Brent BishopKaren Dickinson
Craig BirkbyBob Diforio
Jeff BirkbyKathleen Digre
Christine BoskoffJennie Douglas
Melany BrownPolly Fabian
Nathan ByersCharlotte Fox
Page ByersPookie Gipe
Steve GipeLiz Nichol
Steve GorylTom Nickels
Mark GunlogsonJ.D. Owen
Michaela HamiltonLen Pagliaro
Molly HamptonGlenn Porzak
Wayne HerzogPhil Powers
Rob HessJoel Rogers
Peter JamiesonRod Replogle
Mary JensenMelly Reuling
Wesley KrauseRobert Reynolds
Dale KruseNelljean Rice
Jeff LongPaul Rice
Charley MaceBobbi Robinson
Luanne MannonJay Satz
Greg MartinCraig Seasholes
Walt McConnellDiane Shoutis
John McIntoshDawa Geljen Sherpa
Dan McHaleLaurie Skreslet
Veda Price MorettiBonnie Stenehjem
Pat MorrowScott Stenehjem
Chris NaumannCaroline Smith
Laura NaumannIngrid Stokes
Maggie McManusEd Viesturs
Carol MunchDorothy Warren
Jeff MurrayTom Warren
Jim NelsonDana Welch
Bruce NewellSteve Wennstrom

Finally, my deep love and thanks to my own base camp staffthe Birkby family for their constant support, the Rice family for their encouragement, the Satz family for always setting a place for me at their table, and Seattles Teahouse Kuan Yin for keeping me caffeinated throughout this long and rewarding expedition.

Notes

Chapter 2: Thirty Days to Survival

19 The article described Petzoldt Jane Howard, Last Mountain Man? Not if He Can Help It, Life (December 19, 1969).

24 We did everything wrong Molly Absolon. Paul Tells His Story, The Leader (Fall 1995).

Chapter 3: A Bunch of Bruces

29 F IRST B RUCE : Gday Bruce! The Bruce Sketch, Monty Pythons Flying Circus, Episode 22: 24 November 1970.

Chapter 6: The Fallingest Man in Climbing

72 Every so often, if we were camped Sebastian Junger, Large as Life, Outside Magazine (August 1999), 50.

Chapter 8: Mountain Madness

Portions of this chapter first appeared in Robert Birkby, A Walk on the Hot Side. Seattle Weekly (April 30May 6, 1986), 63.

64 His motto for Mountain Madness Ed Viesturs, with David Roberts, No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the Worlds 14 Highest Peaks (New York: Broadway, 2006), 19.

105 Since 1978, 35,000 people have strolled Nancy Griffin, Charismatic Kid, Life (March 1985), 42.

110 I was always going to have a company Tina Kelley, Scott Fischer... Reaching Beyond Everest & K2, Northwest Wilderness Journal (November/December 1994), 40.

Chapter 9: Kilimanjaro the Really Hard Way

117 The risk had been incalculable Reinhold Messner. Free Spirit: A Climbers Life (Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 1998), 204.

Chapter 10: Annapurna Fang

129 The mountain is considered to be very difficult Elizabeth Hawley and Richard Salisbury. The Himalayan Database: The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley , CD-ROM edition (Golden, CO: American Alpine Club, 2004).

140 Krause twisted ankle Elizabeth Hawley and Richard Salisbury. The Himalayan Database: The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley , CD-ROM edition (Golden, CO: American Alpine Club, 2004).

141 The Fang got the better of us Scott Fischer. An Expensive Education: Our First Himalayan Climb, Rock and Ice (January/February 1986), 29.

Chapter 11: Rockin with the Ruskies

Portions of this chapter first appeared in Robert Birkby, Rockin with the Ruskies, Rock and Ice (March/April 1986), 2832.

Chapter 12: Its All Fun Until Somebody Dies

155 Stacy noticed that Steve Monfredo was having a little difficulty Stacy Allison, with Peter Carlin. Beyond the Limits: A Womans Triumph on Everest (Boston: Little, Brown 1993), 10910.

156 Three metres below the surface Colin Monteath. Hall & Ball: Kiwi Mountaineers: From Mount Cook to Everest (Christchurch, N.Z.: Hedgehog House, 1997), 6061.

Chapter 13: Everest North Face

161 Hundreds of sleepy Sherpas Gary Synder, For George Leigh-Mallory. Left Out in the Rain: Poems (San Francisco: North Point, 1988).

Chapter 14: The Nutrition Expedition

183 Sergio Fitch-Watkins was a seasoned guide Elizabeth Hawley and Richard Salisbury. The Himalayan Database: The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley , CD-ROM edition (Golden, CO: American Alpine Club, 2004).

199 Hall and Ball piled into a vehicle Colin Monteath. Hall & Ball: Kiwi Mountaineers: From Mount Cook to Everest (Christchurch, N.Z.: Hedgehog House, 1997), 88.

Chapter 16: F.O.S.

210 Even then, in the midst of expedition Phil Powers. Scott Style: Adventure Student Makes Good NOLS Leader (Winter 1992). Reprinted at www.nols.edu/alumni/leader/92winter/scottfischer.shtml .

Chapter 17: K2 in 92

239 It can be summed up in a few words Ed Viesturs, with David Roberts. No Shortcuts to the Top : Climbing the Worlds 14 Highest Peaks (New York: Broadway, 2006), 34.

Chapter 19: Everest with Good Style

275 5,000 pounds trash off mountain Elizabeth Hawley and Richard Salisbury. The Himalayan Database: The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley , CD-ROM edition (Golden, CO: American Alpine Club, 2004).

Chapter 20: The Year Before the Year

276 Youve climbed the highest mountain in the world. EverestHistory.com: Willi Unsoeld, at www.everest-news.com/history/climber/unsoeld.htm

279 Everest is pretty much the same experience Tina Kelley. Scott Fischer... Reaching Beyond Everest & K2, Northwest Wilderness Journal (November/December, 1994), 40.

280 I feel bad that my family misses me Tina Kelley. Scott Fischer... Reaching Beyond Everest & K2, Northwest Wilderness Journal (November/December, 1994), 40.

283 I am back from Alaska Lene Gammelgaard. Climbing High: A Womans Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy (Seattle, WA: Seal Press, 1999), 1920.

288 When we were coming off Broad Peak Paul Roberts. Scottish Climber Alison Hargreaves and Six Others Killed on K2, Outside Online internet posting at outside.away.com/news/specialreport/alison/w01.html .

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