This book is dedicated to:
Bosia, Jo, Katy and Roger, for heart-cockle-warming affection
Richard and Carol, dear friends of long date and lasting care
Geoff and Gill, who blessedly came out of the blue and stayed on
Simon and Silvana, for Accrington, Timbuktu, Mongolia and open doors
Luke and June, for unfailing good humour and dependable sanity
Dave and Carol, for the incalculable gift of being there
Bob and Linda, who happily announced themselves one day
To you all I say: Hurray
About the Author
Graeme Fife is a full-time writer who has worked much in radio and written a number of books on a variety of subjects, published in the UK, the USA and Holland, including the bestselling Tour de France: The History, the Legend, the Riders and Inside the Peloton: Riding, Winning and Losing the Tour de France. A keen cyclist, he has ridden most of the celebrated cols of Tour legend.
THE BEAUTIFUL MACHINE
A Life in Cycling, from
Tour de France to Cinder Hill
Graeme Fife
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Epub ISBN: 9781780572208
Version 1.0
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Copyright Graeme Fife, 2008
All rights reserved
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First published in Great Britain in 2007 by
MAINSTREAM PUBLISHING COMPANY (EDINBURGH) LTD
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Edinburgh EH1 3UG
ISBN 9781845963149
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Introduction
Cycling along a lane towards Kemsing on a bright crisp morning in early December, needing to cleanse my system and clear my head as delivery time for this book approached like the peloton hunting down a break in the closing kilometres of a Tour stage I was overtaken by another cyclist, who said good morning and streaked on. I assessed his speed: not that quick but certainly a lot quicker than I was going this dozy interim. I pondered chase, no more than reminding myself that I can respond, at least, to challenge. The will is not always there, nor the energy either, but something pricked my spirit. I gave chase, caught him some distance along and, as he turned left (thank goodness) up towards Kingsdown Hill, I wished him a pleasant ride and continued, at brisker pace now, towards the slighter cusp of my own loop via Watery Lane, Oak Bank, Bitchet Green, Fawke Common and the southern perimeter of Knole Park to Sevenoaks. And I reflected: When your concentration starts to flag, what do you do? You pick a fight... with yourself.
I live in Bat and Ball, which is a sort of wart on the chin of Sevenoaks, but I wish to scotch the ugly rumour that Bat and Ball is twinned with lAlpe dHuez... as being another dead end.
I was in the Pyrenees not long ago. I spend a lot of time out in the mountains on a bike, cycling around, avoiding the sort of people who creep round with pamphlets of dubious intent to knock on my front door and ask: Have you found God? to which the only sensible answer is: No, have you lost him? In early December 2006, I went out to France to reconnoitre a climb to be included in the Tour de France route for the first time ever in 2007: the Port de Bals. Since I was, at the time, also finishing a big book about the great cols of the Pyrenees and hadnt mentioned the Port de Bals, its sudden appearance among the climbs of legend was a bit of a bugger, to be frank. I thought that must be my fault not that the Tour had found it but that I had missed it. So I did the needful and went down to scout it.
Since I was also working on this book to a tight deadline which is worse than a tight waistline because you rarely do anything pleasurable to deserve a tight deadline I was very short of leisure for gallivanting. However, I flew to Pau and on the way surveyed this rogue climb on the map... it didnt exist, which is why I had excluded it. The eastern approach petered out on the pass into a squiggly thin black line as if the Michelin cartographer had dozed off after a good lunch and let the pen run on down the paper. No metalled way, just a forest track. Well, I went up the road that was there from the east and, lo, at the summit, another road joined it, up from the other side. What do I do now? I thought. Sue Michelin? Sue the Tour de France? Burst into tears? No, I braced up and continued on down the 5.88km of new tarmac, all shiny black and no graffiti, though I dont rule out the local foresters coming out with their pails of white paint and brushes and daubing Make tracks not Tour instead of the more usual The bears are back, get your rifles out to the hunting brothers.
I stayed overnight in Bagnres-de-Luchon. The baths were shut and so was most of the rest of the place, but I found a hotel and then asked at the tourist office what was this about the Port de Bals, which seems to have been welcomed back like a prodigal. Turns out the Tour de France has had its eye on the crossing for a year or two, and, by the usual methods money it finally coerced the local asphalters you know, the blokes who pitch up to suburban houses at eight oclock at night with an offer of a new drive or else a hole suitable for a swimming pool on the front lawn to lay a new road. Thats what happened. One day, no road and the village at the head of the valley is all full of itself for being a sort of El Dorado destination up an inaccessible mountainside. Next morning, they wake up and theres a rush hour flying past down the new throughway where there used to be a donkey ride.
At first light the next day, I drove back over the Port de Bals and stopped in a village on the other side that had probably resented not being a cul-de-sac for years but could now gloat because the smug bastards on the other side had lost their exclusivity at last. I talked to a couple of locals about this and that and bike races and cross-country skiing and what they call cuckoo-time snow and other things, and the man said: We dont get many cuckoos down here now, its all helicopters and not much skiing, and you ask a lot of questions. To which I replied that I was the foreigner and isnt that what foreigners do, ask questions which was a bit Jewish, really, now that I think about it, because they are famous for answering questions with another question.
At that, the woman said: You look as if youve just come back from Pontoise, which is French for Youre a bit out of touch, arent you? She said it quite nicely, and it may, of course, be true... perhaps its not for me to say whether it is or not. But the weird thing, the really odd thing, is that Sevenoaks is