Guidebooks by Kent Dannen are the standard reference for the trails of Rocky Mountain National Park. He has hiked every trail in the park and those in this guide many times. Nonetheless, they never get old or fail to offer something new each time he travels these trails. He began his professional guiding activities as hike master and naturalist for the YMCA of the Rockies and has led hundreds of hikes covering thousands of miles. A former contributing editor of Backpacker Magazine, he freelances as a writer and photographer. He has taught classes from coast to coast in nature photography, bird identification, and the history of wildlife in America for the National Wildlife Federation and Canadian Wildlife Federation from coast to coast. He also is a recipient of the US Department of Agriculture Certificate of Appreciation for his outstanding volunteer services in developing educational materials that help man age and protect the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Kent Dannen has written six other guidebooks: Short Hikes in Rocky Mountain National Park,Hiking Rocky Mountain National Park,Best Hikes Rocky Mountain National Park,Best Hikes Colorados Indian Peaks Wilderness, Hiking Waterfalls Rocky Mountain National Park, and Rocky Mountain Wildflowers. He lives near Allenspark, Colorado.
The Cub Lake Trail meanders across a meadow recovering well from wildfire damage, then it climbs through burned forest to the lake, still displaying yellow pond lilies.
Start: Cub Lake Trailhead
Distance: 6.3-mile loop
Hiking time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Trail surface: Dirt
Best season: Summer
Other trail users: Equestrians
Canine compatibility: Dogs are prohibited
Fees and permits: No fees besides park entrance fee
Trail contact: Rocky Mountain National Park Backcountry Office, 1000 US Hwy 36, Estes Park; (970) 5861242; www.nps.gov/romo
Maps: Trails Illustrated Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS McHenrys Peak and Longs Peak
Highlights: Wildflowers, wildlife, Cub Lake
Wildlife: Many bird species, mule deer, marmot, golden-mantled ground squirrel, many butterfly species
Cub Lake Trailhead elevation: 8,080 feet
Cub Lake elevation: 8,630 feet
Finding the trailhead: From the Beaver Meadows entrance (US 36), drive 0.2 mile to Bear Lake Road. Turn left and follow Bear Lake Road for 1.2 miles, then turn right toward Moraine Park Campground. Follow the signs for 2.2 miles to the Cub Lake Trailhead and three reasonably convenient parking areas. GPS: N40 21.40 / W105 36.90
The Hike
From the trailhead, hike south on the Cub Lake Trail, among the richest in the park for the wildflowers and wildlife seen
along its length. For much of its route across the level floor of Moraine Park, the trail is extremely easy to walk. Spoiled by the initial easiness of the trail, hikers may think the last 0.5 mile is rather steep.
Jammed with innumerable opportunities for close-up photos, the Cub Lake Trail is not notable for its scenery, compared with much of the rest of the park. Low scenery potential and extensive opportunities for studying the small, intimate details that are abundant along the way to Cub Lake make this an ideal trail for cloudy-day hiking. Insect repellent may be beneficial.
A December 2012 wildfire actually improved much wildflower habitat by opening former forest to sunlight. The wetlands through which the trail initially passes is recovering as new growth rises from the roots of burned water birch. Rare wood lilies, their bulbs hidden beneath the ground, also emerged again to display their spotted orange grandeur.
The best view is looking toward Stones Peak from the east end of the lake, which is reached after 2.3 miles. Although the 2012 forest fire did nothing to help the vista, the vegetation growing back exemplifies plant succession after a fire or other disturbance. The water lilies on the lakes surface denote the gradual filling in of Cub Lake. Baby mallards among the lily pads are delightful; the lakes leeches (which dont prey on humans) are less lovely.
Another 1.4 miles beyond Cub Lake, the trail meets the Fern Lake Trail, forming a circle route of 6.3 miles, including nearly a mile of road walking between the Cub and Fern Lake Trailheads.
Miles and Directions
- 0.0 Start at Cub Lake Trailhead.
- 0.5 At trail junction where trail used mainly by horses goes left, turn right onto trail to Cub Lake.
- 2.2 From the east end of Cub Lake is a view of Stones Peak rising above the far end of the lake.
- 2.7 Trail to Mill Creek Basin cuts left. Continue right to Fern Lake Trail.
- 3.7 At Fern Lake Trail, a left turn leads to Fern Falls; a right soon reaches The Pool in the Big Thompson River at a bridge.
- 5.4 Reach Fern Lake Trailhead; cross small dirt parking lot to aspen-shaded road back to Cub Lake Trailhead.
- 6.3 Arrive back at Cub Lake Trailhead.
The first 2 miles of the Fern Lake Trail follow whitewater on an easy grade along the Big Thompson River to a quiet spot below a timber bridge buttressed by granite outcrops.
Start: Fern Lake Trailhead
Hiking time: 3 hours
Distance: 3.4 miles out-and-back
Difficulty: Easy
Trail surface: Dirt
Best season: Summer
Other trail users: Equestrians
Canine compatibility: Dogs are prohibited
Fees and permits: No fees besides park entrance fee
Trail contacts: Rocky Mountain National Park Backcountry Office, 1000 US Hwy 36, Estes Park; (970) 5861242; www.nps.gov/romo
Maps: Trails Illustrated Rocky Mountain National Park; USGS McHenrys Peak
Highlights: Arch Rocks, The Pool
Wildlife: Mule deer, chipmunk, red squirrel, water ouzel
Fern Lake Trailhead elevation: 8,155 feet
The Pool elevation: 8,320 feet
Finding the trailhead: From the Beaver Meadows entrance of Rocky Mountain National Park on US 36, drive 0.2 mile to Bear Lake Road. Turn left and follow Bear Lake Road for 1.2 miles, then turn right toward Moraine Park Campground. Drive another 0.5 mile and turn left just before reaching the campground. The pavement ends after 1.2 miles; continue another 2 miles to the end of the unpaved road. GPS: N40 21.294 / W105 37.854
The Hike
Fern Lake, Fern Creek, and Fern Falls were probably named after a local lady rather than after the many bracken ferns that grow along the trail to The Pool, which follows a very easy grade along the Big Thompson River. These ferns grow in stream valleys, where moisture is readily available. Look closely at the lacy patterns of the fern leaves, which are particularly lovely in fall when they turn a rusty golden color.
The Fern Lake Trail often emerges from the forest into meadows opened by beavers removing aspen. Throughout the warm months, these meadows produce many wildflowers that brighten the open spots with masses of color.
Many huge rocks border the trail, some carried to their resting places within the ice of glaciers flowing from the Continental Divide, occasionally visible ahead. Even more boulders, those not rounded by grinding ice, fell to their present spots after the ice melted. Rocky debris fans down the slopes, some of the older rockfalls mellowed by invading trees and shrubs. A rockfall from July 2013 is easy to see where the trail passes between towering megaliths called Arch Rocks.