Kent Dannen - 15 Jun

Kent Dannen has written various guidebooks to trails of Rocky Mountain National Park and Indian Peaks Wilderness, comprehensive and more narrowly focused. While totally immersed in writing about the parks waterfalls, he has not drowned. In the course of research, he did fall in and discover that the water temperature was not as cold as expected, that the water speed was intensely fast, and that the rocks were as hard as... rocks. Brought up with minimal swimming experience after his parents realized he was too full of hot air to drown, Kent nonetheless managed to survive the waterfalls project. He has authored recently, also for Globe Pequot Press, Search and Rescue Rocky Mountains. It seemed like a good subject with which to become familiar.

The Hike

Gauzy bridal attire doubtless has named more waterfalls than any other source. Rocky Mountain National Parks version in spring is much more spectacular than its name implies. When melting snow feeds Cow Creek, the onrush of water can crash into the base of the falls with such force that it shoots back into the air.

Lightning strikes are a constant concern above tree line, but lightning can hit anywhere outdoors. It happened with fatal results to a hiking group headed back from Bridal Veil Falls in the open meadows through which most of the trail passes. Bridal Veil Falls is best viewed and photographed when skies are overcast and light less contrasty. However, these relatively normal conditions for summer afternoons also can generate lightning as water droplets rub together. Writers of science fiction likely would have their space explorers bypass as too dangerous any other earth-like planet as sparky as ours.

The only cows to be seen today along Cow Creek are cow elk, which are rather common. But the creek flowing over Bridal Veil Falls was named for the projected livelihood of Estes Park pioneers prior to 1882, when the name first appeared on a map. Tree ring data from historic structures comprising the research center at the trailhead record dates as far back as 1874. The barn contains trees cut in 1875, although the barn is comparatively new, dating from 1884.

Bridal Veil Falls

A succession of erstwhile cattle ranchers discovered that the alluring beauty in the valley of Cow Creek was not economically profitable until John and Irene McGraw came upon the ranch while on their honeymoon in 1907. They abandoned their Philadelphia life for good when they leased the ranch in 1908 and bought it in 1909. The McGraws did not earn vast sums in cattle ranching either, but they did produce children and assumed leadership roles in the expanding Estes Park community.

When John died in 1917 (two years after the birth of Rocky Mountain National Park), Irene McGraw considered selling the ranch but decided it would be the best place to raise their children. Rather long after it became clear to most Estes Park residents that beauty sold better than beef, the McGraw family converted their cattle ranch to a dude ranch in 1936. It was a bit more successful than one of its first guests, Kansas governor Alf Landon, who lost his attempt to unseat President Franklin Roosevelt in that year while enjoying his campaign headquarters at the ranch. The trail to Bridal Veil Falls doubtless was more refreshing than the campaign trail, and Landons presence brought valuable publicity to the guest ranch.

Eventually, though, the ranch under various names passed from the McGraw family to various investors until the National Park Service purchased it in 1988. NPS intended to eliminate the twenty-five-some buildings and return the land to its historic use as winter range for elk. However, by 1994, NPS recognized the historic value of the McGraw Ranch (restoring its historic name). Two million dollars in restoration funds later, it had a research center in the old buildings, winter range for elk, and trail access to the grandeur of Bridal Veil Falls. The loss of chocolate sundaes formerly served to the public in the ranch house may be a worthwhile sacrifice in exchange for the waterfall spray and spectacle.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at Cow Creek Trailhead.

0.1 The North Boundary Trail cuts away steeply to the right; continue straight along Cow Creek.

1.1 Bridal Veil Falls Trail branches to the right along Cow Creek, departing from the Cow Creek Trail, which swings away from its namesake.

3.0 Arrive at Bridal Veil Falls. Return the way you came.

6.0 Arrive back at Cow Creek Trailhead.

The Hike

Doubtless there is a reason that West Creek, which flows east from the easternmost part of Rocky Mountain National Park, got its name. Clearly, it is west of somewhere, perhaps Kansas. For todays hikers, however, the name has little significance.