Eric Enno Tamm - The Horse That Leaps Through Clouds: A Tale of Espionage, the Silk Road, and the Rise of Modern China
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The Horse That Leaps Through Clouds: A Tale of Espionage, the Silk Road, and the Rise of Modern China: summary, description and annotation
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On July 6, 1906, Baron Gustaf Mannerheim boarded the midnight train from St. Petersburg, charged by Czar NicholasII to secretly collect intelligence on the Qing Dynastys sweeping reforms that were radically transforming China. The last czarist agent in the so-called Great Game, Mannerheim, who would receive the nameHorse that Leaps Through Cloudsfrom the Chinese people he encountered,chronicled almost every facet of Chinas modernization, from education reform and foreign investment to Tibets struggle for independence.
On July 6, 2006, writerEric Enno Tammboards that same train, intent on following in Mannerheims footsteps. Initially banned from China,Tammdevises a cover and retraces Mannerheims route across the Silk Road, discovering both eerie similarities and seismic differences between the Middle Kingdoms of today and a century ago.
Along the way,Tammoffers piercing insights into Chinas past that raise troubling questions about its future. Can the Communist Party truly open China to the outside world yet keep Western ideas such as democracy and freedom at bay, just as Qing officials mistakenly believed? What can reform during the late Qing Dynasty teach us about the spectacular transformation of China today? Study the past if you would divine the future, wrote Confucius. Tamms quest, told inThe Horse that Leaps Through Clouds,turns out to be a cautionary tale.
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A Tale of Espionage, the Silk Road
and the Rise of Modern China
Copyright 2010 by Eric Enno Tamm
First U.S. edition 2011
10 11 12 13 14 5 4 3 2 1
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored
in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without
the prior written consent of the publisher or a licence from The Canadian
Copyright Licensing Agency (Access Copyright). For a copyright licence,
visit www.accesscopyright.ca or call toll free to 1-800-893-5777.
Douglas & McIntyre
An imprint of D&M Publishers Inc.
2323 Quebec Street, Suite 201
Vancouver bc Canada v5t 4s7
www.douglas-mcintyre.com
Cataloguing data available from Library and Archives Canada
isbn 978-1-55365-269-4 (cloth)
isbn 978-1-55365-638-8 (ebook)
Editing by John Burns
Jacket design by Jessica Sullivan
Jacket images: The Great Wall of China image Hiroshi Higuchi/
Getty Images; background image Nic Taylor/Getty Images
Maps by Eric Leinberger
Printed and bound in Canada by Friesens
Distributed in the U.S. by Publishers Group West
We gratefully acknowledge the financial support
of the Canada Council for the Arts, the British Columbia Arts
Council, the Province of British Columbia through the Book
Publishing Tax Credit and the Government of Canada
through the Canada Book Fund for our publishing activities.
For Mom and Dad
: Crossing the Mannerheim Line
: The Secret Agent
: The Nobels Prize
: Fear and Loathing
: The Great Game Redux
: Travels on the Synthetic Road
: Mission Impossible
: Oases and Outposts
: The Horse That Leaps through Clouds
: The Banquet
: Treasure Hunt
: Barbarians Inside the Gate
: The Chinese Renaissance
: Stoned
: Capitalism with Chinese Characteristics
: The Harmonious Countryside
: Opium of the People
: The Wanderer
: The Soot Road
: Reawakening
: To the Finland Station
HORSETHATLEAPS.COM
An interactive multimedia w ebsite has been launched to engage readers and to complement this book, which chronicles two epic journeys, past and present, along the Silk Roadand offers a cautionary tale about the breathtaking rise of China.
From 1906 to 1908, Baron Gustaf Mannerheim, a Russian spy, trekked from St. Petersburg to Peking as part of a secret intelligence mission to gauge the growing power of China. Along the way, he sketched twenty Chinese garrison towns, took 1,370 photographs and mapped 3,087 kilometres of his route. A century later, with a sketchbook and digital slr camera in hand, I retraced his journey, taking more than three thousand photographs.
At Horsethatleaps.com, youll find interactive Google maps, historical photographs and slideshows for each chapter. The website also includes videos, graphs, drawings, reviews, news, events, resources and a blog where readers are welcome to post comments and discuss issues raised in the book.
You can also follow me on various social media:
Blog: horsethatleaps.com/blog
Facebook: facebook.com/horsethatleaps
Twitter: twitter.com/ericennotamm
Flickr: flickr.com/ericennotamm
YouTube: youtube.com/ericennotamm
NAMES AND SPELLINGS
Living in central A sia and Chinas borderlands is far more dangerous than just travelling through as a foreigner. Thats especially true if you are a pious Muslim, belong to an ethnic minority or hold views counter to the lunatics, thugs and autocrats who rule this restive region. Accordingly, I have disguised the identities of some of my local guides and helpers, especially those who spoke candidly about their political views. Those identified with both a given name and surname have not been altered.
Personal and geographical names present another challenge. During his trek through China a century ago, Baron Gustaf Mannerheim transliterated Chinese names in his diary using Swedish spellings, which occasionally correspond to the Wade (later Wade-Giles) system of Romanization in use at the time. For other local languages such as Turki, he phonetically spelled names using a mix of French, English, Swedish, Russian and even German, creating a mind-boggling variety of name forms. Finnish philologist Harry Haln has deciphered this morass in an indispensable guide, An Analytical Index to C.G. Mannerheims Across Asia from West to East in 19061908: Places, Persons and General Terms.
Nowadays, the pinyin system, which offers more accurate transliteration, is widely and officially used in China and throughout the world. As a result, many spellings have changed, and some place names have changed entirely since Mannerheims trek. The confusion doesnt stop there: many places go by two names, one Chinese and the other in the language of the local ethnic minority. To reduce confusion, I have elected to use modern pinyin spellings or ethnic minority names, such as Kashgar and Ordos, that are well established. In order to be pedantically precise, Ive kept bygone spellings when directly quoting historical sources. In a few cases, I have used Wade-Giles or Cantonese for proper names such as Tsingtao beer or Sun Yat-sen.
Crossing the Mannerheim Line
To know Mannerheim strengthens ones belief in mankind, for he is in fact the chevalier sans peur et sans reproche. former Colonel PAUL RODZIANKO, Imperial Russian Army (1940)
Click here to view online interactive maps, photo slide shows, videos and resources, or to comment on this section.
ON JUNE 4, 1942, Adolf Hitlers private plane, a Focke-Wulf Fw 200 Condor, dropped out of a stormy sky on its descent to an airstrip in Imatra, a picturesque Finnish town about two hundred kilometres from Leningrad, where Nazi troops were laying siege to the beleaguered Soviet city. It was a rare outing for the Reich Chancellor. He had been to Rome, had met his victorious troops in Paris and had made inspection tours in Poland and Russia. But this visit was truly extraordinary and took everyone by surprise: the Fhrer was flying to Finland for a birthday party.
Baron Gustaf Mannerheim, Commander-in-Chief and Marshal of Finland, was turning seventy-five. He had written his sister insisting that any sort of celebration would be in bad taste given the war casualties being suffered by Finns fighting alongside German soldiers. He planned to tour the front lines instead. But at 8 oclock the night before his birthday, Hitlers aide-de-camp, General Rudolf Schmundt, called to say that the Reich Chancellor would be at Mannerheims party the next day. And, the General politely added, he would need to be served a special diet.
Mannerheim greeted Hitler and his entourage in front of a railway dining car hidden in a forest near the airstrip. Inside, the party-goers feasted on a hastily organized luncheon of cabbage pasties, cold salmon with mayonnaise and goose stuffed with apples and baked in cream. While the rest of us enjoyed the good but simple dishes, Mannerheim later recalled, [Hitler] ate his vegetarian meal washed down with tea and water.
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