Renee Wright - Explorer’s Guide North Carolina’s Outer Banks

Copyright 2018, 2013 by The Countryman Press
Copyright 2008 by Renee Wright

All rights reserved

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to
Permissions, The Countryman Press, 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

For information about special discounts for bulk purchases, please contact
W. W. Norton Special Sales at specialsales@wwnorton.com or 800-233-4830

Book design by Chris Welch
Production manager: Lauren Abbate
Series cover design by Steve Attardo
Cover photograph Dave Allen Photography / Shutterstock

The Countryman Press
www.countrymanpress.com

A division of W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.
500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110
www.wwnorton.com

978-1-68268-128-2 (pbk.)

978-1-68268-129-9 (e-book)

DEDICATION

For my Mom, Betty Loubetter known to her many kids across the country as RV Mommawho gave me the great gift of travel. Without her, this book could never have been written.

And for Allan Maurer, the editor who helped me find my voice.

And for my sister, Karen, intrepid companion on many shores.

EXPLORE WITH US!

Our guide covers an area stretching from the Virginia border south to the great Marine base of Camp Lejeune, outside Jacksonville, North Carolina. Between the two, youll find as much water as land, and often a ferry offers a more direct route than a road. Well island hop from north to south, with a chapter for each of the main destinations on the North Carolina Banks. Scattered throughout, well take closer looks at some common denominators, such as Banker horses, lighthouses, and lifesaving stations that stretch all along the coast. Special chapters on the history of the region, suggested itineraries, and a Whats Where on the Outer Banks section help you design your perfect vacation.

All cities and towns mentioned in this guide are in North Carolina unless otherwise noted. Wherever possible, weve included a website address for more information. Weve also included places you can get connected with free Wi-Fi access. We provide lots of specific information for most of the attractions on the Outer Banks, and the information was checked as close to publication as possible. However, the Banks change from month to month and season to season. Please use the phone numbers provided to check for current information before you set out on a long trip to a particular place.

The Outer Banks no longer close down in the winter, as was once the norm. Seasonal closures now are quite random. Most everyone takes a month or two off during the winter; they just dont take the same month off. Even locals sometimes find themselves sitting in front of a favorite restaurant looking at a CLOSED sign. Telephone first to avoid disappointment.

LODGING While summer accommodation rates still are the highest of the year, various special events or holiday weeks can bump up prices when you might not expect it. Most places go full tilt from Memorial Day to Labor Day, but well steer you to places where you wont notice the crowds.

These rate categories are per room, per night, based on double occupancy, or per unit for cottages or other rentals. They do not include room taxes or any special service fees that may apply. In Dare County, taxes add an additional 5 percent; in Currituck County, 6 percent; in Hyde County (Ocracoke), 3 percent; in Carteret County, 5 percent; and in Onslow County (Swansboro), 3 percent.

RESTAURANTS These categories represent the average cost of an entre, not including higher-priced specials, that supersize steak or rack of lamb. They also do not include appetizers, desserts, beverages, taxes, or gratuities. Most restaurants on the Outer Banks will add a gratuity to bills for large groups. Be sure to check.

GREEN SPACE This special section in each chapter covers the beaches that make the Banks so special and other natural attractions, such as trails.

CONTENTS

MAPS

P oised between sky and water, North Carolinas Outer Banks stand as a thin bulwark protecting the rest of the continent behind. A spearhead facing into the wind, a narrow wall marking the separation of land and sea, the Banks exist as they have for centuries, yet are never the same, season to season. Hurricanes and storms created the Outer Banks, mounding up sand scraped from the ocean floor. But Mother Nature is never satisfied. The face of the Banks changes constantly as nature resculpts this work of art. Behind the dunes shelter the rich brackish waters of the Sounds, where North Carolinas great rivers mingle their fresh waters with the incoming tides. The SoundsPamlico, Roanoke, and Bogueare home to a teeming richness of sea life, including many varieties of shellfish and some of the best sportfishing to be found on the globe.

In this land of sky, sand, and water, it takes a special kind of people to thrive. Despite the flood of visitors that now visits the Banks, the families who have lived here for generations remain, practicing their traditions, preserving their heritage. They welcome, as they always have, the castaways who wash up on their shores, fall in love with the place, and stay. In this book, we introduce you to some of these people and help you seek out the authentic experiences the Outer Banks have to offer. Whether youre looking for a classic beach vacation, the thrill of extreme sports, immersion in a unique ecosystem, or a walk through history, the coast of North Carolina can be the destination of your dreams.