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When it was first published in 1934, Erna Fergusson s Mexican Cookbook made authentic Mexican recipes accessible to cooks nationwide including celebrated favorites such as enchiladas, chile rellenos, and carne adovada, as well as the simple, rustic foods traditionally prepared and served in New Mexican homes. Inspired by the delight and enthusiasm with which visitors to the Southwest partook of the regions cuisine, this popular cookbook remains an enduring tribute to the ambience and spirit of territorial New Mexico.
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Nadie sabe lo que tiene la olla mas que la cuchara que la menea. No one knows what's in the pot but the spoon that stirs it
University of New Mexico Press Albuquerque
Page iv
Copyright 1934, 1940, 1945 by Erna Fergusson.
Copyright renewed 1973 by Mrs. Li Browne Caemmerer.
All rights reserved.
Nineteenth printing, 1999
Manufactured in the United States of America. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 46-214. International Standard Book Number 0-8263-0035-9.
Page v
Foreword
Mexican food has, ever since the "American Occupation," been a part of the Southwestern diet. At first chile and beans and corn in many guises were all one could get. Later the deliciousness of slowly-cooked and richly condimented dishes won them fame among people who could not even pronounce their names. In every Southwestern town tostadas are served with cocktails, chile suppers are served regularly in many homes, and the family often goes out to a "chile joint," and the tamale vender with his tinkling bell and musical call moseys along the streets or lingers wherever people gather.
Now that everybody has been to the Southwest and even into Mexico, Mexican food has become a part of the national cuisine. Restaurants which prepare Mexican food correctly are demonstrating that much crude, hot food that used to pass as authentic lacks the subtlety of flavor characteristic of real Mexican cookery. The national palate is beginning to distinguish between a hot stew with chile dumped in and a smoothly blended dish of meat and spices; between heavy pancakes topped with a fried egg and a burning sauce, and a
Page vi
balanced combination of eggs, cheese, and chile on tender tortillas.
An all-inclusive Mexican cookbook would contain many recipes that call for tropical fruits and vegetables. The recipes in this book are limited to those which were in common use when the province of New Mexico was a part of the Republic of Mexico. They represent Mexican cookery that belongs to the United States.
Page vii
Contents
Introduction
1
Mexican Cookery
3
Chile
11
Corn
15
Fruits
17
Spices
19
Soups
21
Entrees
27
Meats and Poultry
35
Eggs
55
Vegetables
59
Salads
71
Breads
87
Cakes and Cookies
93
Cheese
103
Candies and Preserves
105
Beverages
111
Comidas
115
Index
119
Page 1
Introduction
The Mexican Cookbook has been out of print for several years, but its friends continue to ask for it. To a native New Mexican "chile food" is something he keeps on wanting even in a new world of tightened geography and atomic bombs. New Mexicans proved that by writing home from earth's farthest corners for chile and beans and blue corn meal and the necessary herbs. In England they found chile con carne almost warming enough to offset the climate; on Pacific atolls they loved to sit on their heels around a pot bubbling with succulent frijoles and smelling just like home; and in the Philippines they could show a trick or two to Spanish-speaking people who knew not New Mexico's piquant food. Now that they are coming back with brides, they think the girl from New Zealand or Iceland, Italy or Scotland, should know how to cook up a mess of beans for a hungry man.
So the little book comes out again, in a new jacket and with new illustrations by a granddaughter of New Mexico. It greets returning New Mexicans and welcomes new New Mexicans who may find useful hints here.
Page 2
Since the book's first appearance it has become constantly clearer that in the old days every recipe had as many variations as there were cooks: a natural result of the fact that cookbooks were unknown. Some of these cooks made kindly comments on our recipes and offered new ones. In 1940, some of the original recipes were changed where it seemed that they might be made even easier to follow in a modern kitchen; and twelve new ones were included. These were offered by Miss Mela Sedillo and Seora Mxima Tafoya de Salazar. Seora Florinda Barela gave valuable advice and assistance in adapting the recipes. They were all tested again by Mrs. E. A. McDevitt as painstakingly as she tested the original ones when she was Miss Estelle Weisenbach.
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