Keiko Nitanai - Kimono Design: An Introduction to Textiles and Patterns

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Contents

Published by Tuttle Publishing, an imprint of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

www.tuttlepublishing.com

ISBN 978-4-8053-1428-9
ISBN 978-1-4629-1926-0 (ebook)

Library of Congress Control Number: 2016956551

Kimono no Monyou to sono Mikata: Monyou no Kakuzuke, Imi, Jidai Haikei, Yurai ga Wakaru

Copyright Keiko Nitanai 2013

English translation rights arranged with Seibundo Shinkosha Publishing Co., Ltd. through Japan UNI Agency, Inc., Tokyo

Translation 2017 by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

Translated from the Japanese by Leeyong Soo

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publisher.

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Index

Note: Page numbers correspond to the print edition.

accessories 35, 79, 153, 156, 167, 169, 175, 229; see also comb, hairpin, obi-dome

Art Deco 156, 1725, 228

Art Nouveau 25, 156, 228

calico 171, 205, 228; see also kowatari , sarasa

chijimi (lightweight crepe with a puckered surface) 152

China 13, 27, 35, 65, 87, 101, 129, 131, 137, 152, 159, 177, 219, 248, 261, 301, 304

chuya obi (reversible day and night obi) 10

cotton 35, 111, 117, 123, 223, 230, 245

crepe 25, 152, 165, 239; see also chijimi , kinsha , omeshi , ryujo-chirimen

dyeing 41, 57, 63, 1523, 171, 187, 199, 227, 255; see also tie-dye, yuzen

Edo period 13, 31, 33, 41, 61, 147, 152, 153, 156, 171, 189, 227, 229, 230, 237, 243, 259, 286

embroidery 53, 160, 187, 199, 229, 261

Expressionism 1823

fukuro-obi (double-woven obi) 25, 53, 76, 199, 227

furisode (single womans kimono with long sleeves) 25, 53, 233

gauze 78, 95, 139, 152

geisha 78, 178, 230

gosho-zome (floral-dyed) 230

hair decorations 47, 789, 175, 248

haneri (removable decorative collar for an undergarment) 79, 93, 175

haori (hip- or thigh-length kimono-style jacket) 65, 79, 243, 259

haori-himo (jacket strings) 79

homongi (semi-formal attire) 25, 239

homonfuku (semi-formal visiting attire) 239

ikat 25, 63, 79, 117, 181; see also kasuri , meisen , shibori

jofu (ramie linen) 152

kabuki 5, 19, 24, 78, 153, 229

kasuri (fabric made from fibers dyed using the ikat resist-dyeing technique) 63, 117, 181, 219, 230, 255, 285

kinsha (thin silk crepe) 239

kosode (short-sleeved kimono) 61

kowatari sarasa (printed calico) 171

linen 54, 111, 152; also see jofu

Meiji period 25, 41, 57, 152, 156, 175, 229, 230, 255

meisen (silk decorated with the kasuri or ikat technique) 63, 181, 217

mojiri-ori (weaving technique) 152

muslin 44, 57, 230; see also yuzen-zome )

nabeshima-sarasa (type of calico) 171

nagajuban (full-length kimono undergarment) 57, 79, 93, 112, 133, 259

Nagoya obi (most commonly used type of obi) 8, 18

Nara period 13, 73, 152, 159, 171

nobility 8, 101, 147, 165, 207, 209, 237, 261, 263, 286

obi-age (bustle sash) 79

obi-dome (obi sash brooch) 79, 93, 156, 175

obi-jime (obi sash cords) 78, 79, 156, 175

omeshi (heavy crepe silk woven of pre-dyed threads) 25, 165, 205, 282, 285; Majolica omeshi 2826

osanpogi (strolling attire) 239

Oshima (fabric characterized by splash patterns) 2535

pongee (luxury silk) 117, 130, 219, 245, 255

rinzu (silk satin damask) 33, 50, 53, 125, 222, 225, 239, 241, 292; figured satin 35, 69, 137, 239, 267, 290, 292

ryujo-chirimen (luxury grade of striped crepe) 163

sakai-sarasa (type of calico) 171

sarasa (calico) 171

shibori (ikat fabric) 79, 99

Showa period 5, 15, 23, 25, 29, 44, 47, 59, 63, 65, 67, 78, 79, 99, 109, 127, 139, 141, 149, 152, 156, 159, 175, 183, 228, 239, 259, 299

silk see crepe, gauze, kinsha , meisen , omeshi , pongee , rinzu

suehiro (folding fan) 177

Taisho period 13, 73, 152, 159, 171

Tale of Genji 53, 87, 105, 115, 2067

tasuki (sleeve strings) 230, 302

thread: dyeing, 25, 63, 165; in embroidery 50, 288, 294, 297; lam 285; in legend, 24, 101, 229; spools of (motif; see also odamaki ) 54; weaving 25, 33, 63, 152, 165, 239, 255

tie-dye, 25, 63, 76, 127, 187, 217, 219, 230, 255, 285, 294

tomesode (formal kimono worn by married women) 12, 61, 99, 199, 286

tsuitake (kimono tailored to the height of the wearer) 230

tsumugi see pongee

uchikake (outer robe) 189

uchiwa (round fan) 78, 147, 153

ukiyo-e 25, 147, 153, 215, 228

weaving 41, 54, 63, 101, 152, 285; see also mojiri-ori

Western: clothing 156, 228, 279; design 25, 285; flowers 31, 137, 149, 228, 291; style 156, 175; taste 219

wool 57

yukata (casual unlined summer kimono) 78, 111, 123, 153

yuzen (paste-resist method of dyeing) 152, 227

yuzen-zome (muslin) 230