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John Forrest Gregory - Rock sport: tools, training, and techniques for climbers

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    Rock sport: tools, training, and techniques for climbers
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Page iii
Rock Sport
Tools, Training, and Techniques for Climbers
John Forrest Gregory
Page iv Copyright 1989 by John Forrest Gregory Published by Stackpole - photo 2
Page iv
Copyright 1989 by John Forrest Gregory
Published by
Stackpole Books
Cameron and Kelker Streets
P.O. Box 1831
Harrisburg, PA 17105
All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to Stackpole Books, Cameron and Kelker Streets, P.O. Box 1831, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 17105.
Printed in the United States of America
First Edition
10 9 8 7 6
Illustrations by Montague Lord.
Cover photo by Mike Whitman: "Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope"
at the Shawangunks, New York.
Table on p. 54 appears by permission of Timothy J. Setnicka and Appalachian Mountain Club Books, Boston.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Gregory, John Forrest.
Rock sport: tools, training, and techniques for climbers / John
Forrest Gregory.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 0-8117-2296-1
1. Rock climbing. I. Title.
GV200.2.G74 1989
796.5'223'028 dc19 88-32368
CIP
Page v
Contents
List of Illustrations
vi
Acknowledgments
viii
An Important Note to Readers
viii
Introduction
ix
1
Climbing Today
1
2
Skills
20
3
The Belay System
55
4
Anchor Points
68
5
Lead Climbing Tactics
101
6
Descent
110
7
Equipment
118
8
Training
165
Climbing Instruction
179
Glossary-Index
181

Page vi
List of Illustrations
Top rope anchor
5
Top rope belay
7
Taping up
2223
Layback
24
Jams I
25
Jams II
26
Jams III
26
Opposition
27
Undercling
30
Mantle
31
Offwidth
32
Carabiners reversed and opposed
35
Figure-eight knot (Flemish bend)
37
Sequence for figure-eight on bight
37
Double fisherman's sequence
38
Prusik knot
39
Klemheist knot
39
Bachmann knot
40
Hedden knot
40
Bowline
41
Belayer's knot (hitch)
41
Clove hitch
42
Ring bend
42
Figure-eight to tie off anchor
4344
Tying off leader
4749
Body rappel
5051
Carabiner brake rappel
5253
Knot strength in kernmantle climbing rope
54
Belay
5859
Equalized anchors
62
Anchor point angles and force calculations
63

Page vii
Impact force diagram and calculations
66
Sling around block
71
Overhand loop knot
72
Threaded sling
72
Runners
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