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Copyright 2016 by Elizabeth Bard
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ISBN 978-0-316-27627-6
E3-20170202-JV-PC
Picnic in Provence
Lunch in Paris
For Rachel
Bonjour! Before we begin, a wordand its an important one: Im an American. Though Ive lived in France for fifteen years and now hold two passports, I grew up in Bruce Springsteens U.S.A. of the 1980s, eating instant macaroni and cheese, General Tsos chicken, and Pillsbury vanilla frosting out of the can. I did not have a French grandmother who made me leek soup or served me fish with the head on. Like almost everyone I knew, I ate baked beans and fish sticks. Cheese meant fluorescent orange Kraft singles. I did not know anything about the pleasures of champagne cocktails or the digestive benefits of herbal teas. The radical change in my eating habits came when I moved to France, at the age of twenty-eight, to be with my French husband, Gwendal. I discovered a culture of fresh seasonal ingredients, the pleasure of cooking for and eating with family and friends, and ingredients Id never thought about, like lentils and almond flour, that have become staples of a heartierand healthierdiet. Im not a chef; Im a home cook who was delighted to discover that good things dont take all day to prepare, and that if you start with great ingredients, a great dinner is almost inevitable. Im writing this book because I know it is possible to change ingrained eating habits, even in adulthood, and because I know these are changes a lot of people are trying to makein ways big and smallin their own kitchens. I hope this book is equal parts inspiring, helpful, and fun!
I will never forget my first trips to the Tuesday-morning market on the rue de Belleville in Paris. The fishmonger asked me for a date over glassy-eyed whole mackerel, and the man who sold me green beans called me his gazelle. I bought myself a bouquet of fresh herbs instead of flowers and tasted a plump fresh fig for the first timean almost religious experience. For the first few weeks I stayed away from the hairy beige bowling ball that turned out to be a very tasty celery root. There was definitely some impatient foot-tapping behind me at the local butcher as I slowly mastered the vocabulary necessary to order my paule dagneau dsosse, deboned shoulder of lamb.
Unless youre a born cook, or a bit of a mad scientist, most of us have a fear of new ingredients. We cook what we know. This chapter breaks down the essentials of my French kitchen; some of them will be familiar, some more mysterious. Ive divided my list into pantry staples, a few things I always have in my fridge, and some new things you should try the next time you see them (in season!) at the market. Ive provided an easy-to-follow recipe for each to help you along in your culinary discoveries and, where appropriate, some ways to dress things up for guests. Where relevant Ive also recommended brands that will get you as close as possible to the authentic French taste.
MY FRENCH PANTRY
Im a cook who likes a full pantry. I love to go hunting through my cabinets on a rainy day and see what I can create without a trip to the store. Here are some of the things I always have in stock:
Secret #1
A decent bottle of olive oil: Not a single day goes by that I dont reach for my bottle of olive oilfor salad dressing, roasting vegetables, making pasta sauce, browning meat, even baking. A tablespoon of olive oil is the single best way Ive found to get friendly with green vegetablesit elevates them from merely virtuous to outright delicious. I know good olive oil can be expensive in the States. In Provence, we are spoiled; its basically the same price as bottled water. Although olive oil tends to be associated with Italy, the Spanish section of your local supermarket is also a good place to look.
Tip
I buy my olive oil in three-liter jugs from my local butcher (its cheaper that way) and decant into a smaller bottle. I recommend having one bottle of fruity extra-virgin olive oil for sauces and salad dressing and one bottle of milder ordinary olive oil for everyday cooking and baking.
HARICOTS VERTS IN OLIVE OIL
Haricots verts lhuile dolive
Serves 4 as a side dish; if doubling, make two batches (the beans wont char if they are crowded
Many of our weekday meals include a single serving of protein and a big heap of seasonal vegetables (green beans, leeks, brussels sprouts, Swiss chard, or spinach) cooked with olive oil. My method is somewhere between steam and sautI find this keeps the fresh taste and gives you the delicious charred bits everyone loves. In my humble opinion, slim French haricots verts beat the pants off regular old green beans and are worth searching around for. They cook quickly yet retain their signature snap. If you decide to use thicker, American-style green beans, you may want to blanch them in boiling water for thirty seconds (then run them under cold water to stop the cooking) and proceed with your recipe from there.