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N o one whos really into fashion ever eats anything!
Ive lost count as to how many times Ive heard this declaration during the twenty-five years Ive been surrounded by beautiful clothes. Constant repetition has elevated it almost to the level of mantra, so one could hardly be blamed for accepting its insistent message as gospel.
Like pirate treasure buried beneath the Statue of Liberty or the private subway stop hidden under the Waldorf-Astoria, gustatory abstinence among New Yorks best dressed is another juicy but false urban myth.
Admittedly, its not hard to understand how this food-phobic assumption arose and persists. In his 1987 watershed bestseller, The Bonfire of the Vanities, author Tom Wolfe caustically christened the well-heeled tribe of Reagan-era Upper East Side women who could never be too rich or too thin as social X-rays. And like the stylish yet savage authors other indelible masterstrokes of cultural branding, such as radical chic, the right stuff, and the me decade, his wicked famished-for-fashion label not only stuck, but its application was quickly broadened by the public to include virtually any woman who buys expensive designer clotheslots of themat list price.
Although New York Citys rhythms and economics have drastically changed since Wolfes chronicle, a brilliantly barbed stereotype has an extended shelf life. Additional reinforcement is provided by todays runway and print models, most of whom are several inches shy of curvaceous from any angle, helping to sustain the belief that the luxury market still considers green tea a core food group.
And yet visit any of Bergdorf Goodmans seven selling floors: not only is the mesmerizing landscape composed of the best curated, most covetable fashion sourced from every corner of the globe, but its also populated by stylish women of a heartening diversity in height; waistline; haircut and color; bust, shoe, and dress size; ethnicity and race. These same women stand united, however, in the invigorating yet exhausting pursuit of the perfect purchaseor four. And all have come to Fifth Avenue and Fifty-eighth Street confident they will find it.
Nevertheless, however thrilling Lanvins and Tom Fords most recent collections may be, at some point even the most stalwart shoppers strength is destined to falter. Happily, at Bergdorf Goodman, the savviest course of action is but a button away. Get into the elevator and push 7. And when the doors open, you will instantly discover that BG Restaurant is far more than a handy destination.
BG is a harmoniously realized and relatable oasis, smoothly driven by the conviction that eating on the run is as foolhardy as shopping against the clock. Designed by Kelly Wearstler, the restaurant is handsome yet instantly welcoming, as a salon in your duplex would be, say, if you lived opposite the Park (New Yorkers never call it Central Park) on Fifth (they never say Avenue either), and its windows reveal one of the most glorious and rare public views of that park the city has to offer.
But the most vibrant aspect of BGs decor is its guests: enviably clad and coiffed women and men from near and far. There are natives who know their way around every inch of the city, deep in discussion about the knockout installation at SoHos New Museum. And there are women who took the train in for an afternoon spree who are nearly breathless over Manolo Blahniks divine new pumps on 2. And if you could only catch more of the dishy conversation between the two women sitting at the table against the window, it would be worth an embarrassing blush, but you cant because theyre sitting in the restaurants signature high-backed, enveloping whisper chairs. Jewelry flashes and bags of every shape and skin are as plentiful as butter knives. The place vibrates like a private club thats just declared open membership. The whizzes at Pixar could not animate a livelier scene.
And what do all these excited shoppers have in common? Theyre eatingand not pinky-up stuff either. When you are in the middle of a city that rightfully boasts some of the finest and most diverse cuisine in the world, you have to be competitive. BGs menu is as big and bold as a true New Yorkers appetite for fashion, for food, for life, featuring legendary favorites such as Ahi Tuna Tartare, the Gotham Salad, and Lobster Napoleon, not to mention the restaurants addictive array of desserts and what may be the loveliest afternoon tea service in town. Just as there is only one Bergdorf Goodman, there is only one BG.
This is food meant to be relished rather than tasted. Not surprisingly, the restaurants regulars have responded with such gusto and curiosity about its fare that it made perfect sense to assemble The Bergdorf Goodman Cookbook, an appreciation of and a way to re-create the restaurants most popular delights. This book contains not only the best recipes from BGs kitchen but also many from fashion and beauty luminaries. From renowned designers, editors, and makeup wizardsyou know, all those folks who supposedly dont eatcome recipes for Caramelized Onion and Fontina Cheese Pizza, Matzo Ball Soup with Carrots and Dill, Baked Mashed Potatoes with Hemingway Trout, Chicken Paprikash with Sptzle, Bread Pudding with Peaches and Caramel Sauce, French Apple Tart, and even my own Hals Hot for Chili. Not one of them contains flaxseeds.
Food, like fashion, is the most fun you can have with your clothes on. No wonder some of Bergdorfs best customers wish they could live inside the storeit offers the best of both worlds. In fact, there once was an apartment on the top floor of Bergdorfs, but its gone. Taking up residence is no longer in the realm of possibility. However, being able to re-create the food at BG Restaurant in your own home is now one of the citys most delicious realities.
Hal Rubenstein
S ince opening its doors in 1901, Bergdorf Goodman has been a beacon for fashion lovers from around the world. Housed in a beautiful nine-story Beaux Arts building that anchors the northwest corner of Fifth Avenue and Fifty-eighth Street in New York City, the store represents the pinnacle of style, service, and modern luxury. Its the ultimate place to shop for the most exquisite designs, and though it counts all manner of royalty among its clientelefrom Princess Grace to Beyoncanyone who slips through its revolving doors is immediately welcomed by the warm and attentive staff.
There are few places that better evoke heaven on earth, making Bergdorfs the go-to destination for everything from the perfect red lipstick to a made-to-measure suit to the seasons hottest trends. Whether theyre indulging in a full day of shopping or just stopping in for lunch, guests make a beeline for one of the stores most popular spots: the BG Restaurant. This inviting space with stunning Central Park views is a light-filled sanctuary that offers respite and refreshment. Los Angelesbased interior designer Kelly Wearstler created its soothing pale blue and cool green interiors, with hand-painted de Gournay chinoiserie wallpaper and comfortably low-slung chairs that give it the intimate feel of an elegant residence. Though an integral part of the store, BG is a world apart, with its own distinctive energy that keeps the mood light and spirits high.
In addition to attracting local shoppers, international visitors, and the fashion cognoscenti, the restaurant draws many from the New York area, including those who love to soak up the ambience and meet there frequently, or to celebrate important milestones. A day of shopping with lunch at BG is a time-honored rite of passage, one that often becomes a much-repeated tradition for mothers and daughters from around the world. The restaurant also serves as something of an executive dining room for nearby officesEste Lauder, Chanel, and Hearstand quite a few agents and editors in the book and magazine industries are regulars, too. Though the window seats overlooking the park are highly coveted, the best views in the room are arguably those of the parade of interesting people and fashions inside.