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Taylor - Deep-Fried Goodness

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Taylor Deep-Fried Goodness
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V. 1. 1873-75: March, 1873: Cheyennes Eagle House burns ; Indians restless along the Chug [Chugwater] -- April, 1873: Ranchers on constant lookout for Indians ; White Clay mail carrier killed ; Bull train hauls 75,000 pounds freight per trip ; Rings for Lallee ; Gift wagons from Jules Ecoffee no account ; Echoes from the Modoc War ; Stage coach stalled, soldier freezes, in blizzard ; General Grant and family visit Cheyenne -- May, 1873: A loan from Hi Kelly ; Deep snow from Bear Springs to Cheyenne ; Cheyenne to Omaha by train, $31 ; The mystery of Little Mary ; Early oil discovery near Teapot Dome -- January, 1875: A blue financial outlook ; Lucky at cards ; trouble in Louisiana ; Sawing beef like ice at 51 below zero ; Government pays eight cents for meat ; Bids $1680 per annum on mail route from Medicine Bow to Ft. Fetterman -- February, 1875: History of Bordeaux ; The murder of Baptiste Ladeau ; Six Mile Ranch favorite spot for killings ; Cy Williams sells his life dearly ; Missouri Jim frosts his ears and gets a grubstake ; Jim Harwood, John Boyd go for blacksmith, return slightly inebriated ; Roundup in Goshen Hole ; Jim Hunton out all night looking for ponies ; Driving Painted Horn beeves to Ft. Fetterman ; Lallees allowance -- March, 1875: 102 cow hides a heavy load, sell for $5.50 each in Cheyenne ; Gold excitement and trouble brewing in the Black Hills -- April, 1875: Pants for three brothers, $35 ; Butchers wage, $50 per month ; Why 80-year-old bridge across Platte [River] is still sturdy ; Wins chairs in raffle, trades with Speed Stagner for rug ; A bad night at cards ; Butcher Fischer has the Quinzy [quinsy] ; Broken legs for Ward and Jim Lane ; Numpa [Nampa?] says Indians will fight for Black Hills ; An adventure with Lallee -- May, 1875 : A peace conference that failed ; Spring roundup ; Brooks sells out to Guiterman [Getermann] ; Charles E. Clay, Huntons contemporary ; A military expedition -- June, 1875: Walker & Johnson gather 934 beeves ; Indians steal horses on Rock Creek and Laramie Plains ; Gathering wire near Old Fort Casper ; Cavalry unable to cross Platte, returns to Ft. Fetterman ; Horse racing and liquor ; Griffins Ranch burned -- July, 1875: A master wagon maker ; Eleven bull teams on the road ; A meeting at the Natural Bridge ; Surveyor Hammond recovers stolen horse ; History of Bridgers ferry ; Mrs. W.G. Bullock, descendant of George Washington ; Lallee goes visiting ; Gen. [General] Crook passes north -- August, 1875: Telegraph to Fetterman down ; Indians steal Malcomb [Malcolm] Campbells horses, kill old man ; Haying on Box Elder and the Chug ; Whitehead prospecting party see Indians, come to Huntons ranch ; Exodus of officers from Fort Fetterman ; Making adobe brick ; Tom Hunton survives serious illness ; Indian Commission at Ft. Laramie -- September, 1875: Three steers for $100 ; Six weeks provisions for hay crew ; Jules Ecoffey robbed in Cheyenne ; Election at 3-Mile Ranch, Lallee votes too ; Lallee ill on LaPrele, Dr. Gibson attends her ; Indians ugly at Agency Council, kill man on Laramie, attack hay train at Bridgers Ferry, cavalry set out -- October, 1875 : Lallee recovers, return to Bordeaux ; Bullock and Phillips bondsmen for Hunton ; Bull calves, $38; steers, 3 pound ; A boil where it hurts, especially on horseback ; Swan buy cattle on LaBonte ; Freight business hits slump, bull trains go after poles ; Cheyenne and Arapahoe Indians visit Ft. [Fort] Fetterman ; Butchering and making sausage ; Powell, Smith, and Lord haul military baggage ; Two pioneers in their later years [Malcolm Campbell, Earnest Logan] -- November, 1875: a bargain to hold hay bottom ; Log floor for Malcomb Campbells house ; 26 work cattle lost, train rumbles on with remaining 64 ; Women and trouble at Fishers, Cully lands in guard house, Roe in hospital ; Bargains at quarter masters sale ; Jim Sanders brings gold out of Black Hills worth $19.45 an ounce ; New iron bridge across Platte at Fort Laramie nears completion ; A telegram about Mary -- December, 1875: The story of Little Bat ; An elk hunt in 1875 -- Distance tables.;v. 1. 1873-75 -- v. 2. 1876-77 -- v. 3. 1878-79 -- v. 4. 1880-82 -- v. 5. 1883-84.;V. 2. Part two, 1877 : January : General Crook, back from the wars, passes to Cheyenne ; Borrows hay press from Senator Kendricks future father-in-law ; Frank Gruard [Grouard], The Sandwich islander who passed for a Sioux ; Horse herd on Spear Fish stolen by Indians ; Deputy Marshal Fisher after horse thief ; Heavy travel and troop movements through Bordeaux, Cross roads of the west ; A stabbing affray at John Owens ranch ; Many Chinamen traveling to the Black Hills ; Seventeen passengerss on coach, including Deputy Fisher and prisoner McGinnis ; Luke Voorhees, Pioneer Stage operator, whose Treasure Coach carried fortunes in gold ; Circulating petition for Post Office at Bordeaux ; Frank Ecoffey on Cheyenne coach with two prisoners ; Indians steal Portugee Phillips and Hi Kellys horses, kill trapper on Cottonwood ; Charly Clay wintering his work cattle on running water ; Nagle & Swan offer $200 reward for stage robbers, dead or alive ; Last Indian depredations in the Laramie region ; Hay price at Fr. Fetterman $60 ton ; Daily coach planned to the Hills, more stable room needed at Bordeaux -- February : Builds house on Tom Huntons homestead ; Bailing hay on the Nick Janis ranch ; General Miles wins victoory on the Yellowstone ; small pox at fort Laramie, one man dies ; Alvah W. Ayers finds Charly Clays work cattle ; John LaMotte gets $40 a month job ; Another prophetic dream, jealous women fighting over him ; Domestic crisis, goes buggy riding with E, Lallee leaves him ; Hay bales weighed 200 pounds, eight-wagon bull train hauls 34 tons to Ft. Fetterman ; Indian scare at Fagans ranch ; Hay for Luke Voorhees stage line at $32 ton ; Thirteen dollar hay brings $60 baled and delivered at Ft. Fetterman ; Britisher badgered at hay camp ; Train attacked on Black Hills Road, one killed, Ft. Laramie troops to rescue ; Horse stealing along the Laramie and Platte, other indian depredations ; Confides his trouble with Lallee to her brother, Little Bat ; Tells Squaw to go, suffers pangs of regret, would rather have seen her die ; W.G. Bullock disapproved for post trader appointment, his squaw record hurt him ; Velvet har, Brass heeled shoes and Merino hose for some lady -- March : Transportation magnates of pre-railroad days ; William Pye steals Jims money and flees, the boys bring him back ; Eternal triangle, hears Lallee has been toying with Joe Morris ; Squaw camp on the Laramie ; Sends Lallee to reservation, but she does not stay there ; Building new stage station at Bordeaux ; F.M. Phillips throws his squaw away but keeps the children ; Anguish for nothers when red and white mates parted ; Buying cattle for Indian beef ; Eula Wulfjen [Mrs. John B. Kendrick] traveled the Texas trail in 73 at age of fifteen months ; Eighteen below zero in March ; Heavy stage coach travel through Bordeaux to Black Hills ; Indians surrendering horses and guns at Red Cloud Agency ; General Crook relaxes at Ft. Laramie ; Lallee had a sewing machine ; Road agents did not molest the lady ; Making shoes for work cattle ; The remarkable Johnny Owens, Twenty notches on his gun ; Tom Hunton first Postmaster at Bordeaux ; McQuade kills the Jacksons -- April : Lure of Black Hills gold spreads over the nation ; Johnny Slaughter, stage driver, killed by road agents ; Col. Carpenter conducted tours for miners ; Hunton brothers qualify to handle mail ; John Boyd builds Homestead House ; Indians stealing horses on Bear Creek ; D.H. Russell buys a $60 bull ; An irrigation system at Bordeaux ; Capt. Van Vliets stallion brings $150 ; Small pox victims left at Chugwatter by Army train ; Cold, wet journey from Bordeaux to Ft. Fetterman ; Capt. Pollock survived the Frontier Wars to die in fall down stairs -- May : Crazy Horse surrenders his warriors but not his spirit, sought death and found it ; John R. Smith turn the table, shoots bandit who came to rob him ; Beef bids for Forts Fetterman and Reno ; Andy Sullivans bones found by roundup party, he was Governor Sinmpsons great uncle ; Ton Hunton sick, treated by doctor passing to the Hills ; Bordeaux Irrigation system completed ; James Monroe helped build Cow Hide Dam across the Chug ; Chinamen bring lauandry service to Black Hills miners ; Roundup crew dissatisfied, maybe the cook was on a toot ; Posey Wilson sues, attaches hay money ; Billy Bacon and Jack Sanders [Saunders] rubbed each other out ; Little Bat finds Bob horse in Indian hands ; Lallee, Old Squaw and Little Bat visit Hi Kelly ; Political plum, Sutlers and post traders had monopoly at frontier posts ; Horse thieves go too far, steal Judge Hauphoffs stock ; Lallee again sent agency, again she does not stay ; Andy Carr recovers some of his horses from Indians ; John Owens buys $30 bull calf ; Thirty dollars a month job for Newcomb.

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DEEP-FRIED GOODNESS

Deep-Fried Goodness - image 1

BY HOPPIN JOHN MARTIN TAYLOR

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER ALSBERG

WORKMAN PUBLISHING NEW YORK

Copyright 1997 by John Martin Taylor
Book illustrations copyright 1997 by Peter Alsberg

All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying-without written permission of the publisher. Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son Limited.

Deep-Fried Goodness is an abridgment of material previously published in The Fearless Frying Cookbook.

The words Hoppin Johns is a registered trademark of John Martin Taylor.

Cover design by Laura Foxgrover

Workman Publishing Company, Inc.
225 Varick Street
New York, NY 10014
www.workman.com

CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
GETTING STARTED

References to frying appear in ancient manuscripts in both the East and the - photo 2

References to frying appear in ancient manuscripts in both the East and the West, although no one can pinpoint the origin of the technique of cooking in hot oil. The evolution of frying as a cooking method probably closely follows the development of metal pots. Today we take so many of our modern conveniences for granted that we forget that the modern western kitchen, unimaginable a hundred years ago, is still unheard of in much of the world. Accurate thermometers, rheostats, and thermostats are recent luxuries. Sauting, for example, appeared only after stoves with variable heat sources appeared in the nineteenth century. Frying, then, as we know it, is very modern cooking.

DEEP-FRYING, THE PERFECT MEDIUM

Theres hardly a person among us who can resist perfectly fried onion rings, French fries, hushpuppies, or doughnuts. When cooked to perfection in clean, hot oil, deep-fried foods are crisp on the outside and moist and tender on the inside. They should not be greasy at allnot even a drop of oil on the plates that hold them.

When it is deep-fried, the food is surrounded by very hot fat (over 100 degrees hotter than boiling water), which sears the exterior by caramelizing the natural sugars in the food. The sizzling noise is the instantaneous vaporization of water as it hits the hot oil. Baking, broiling, and grilling can be done at hotter temperatures, but only in deep-frying is the heat so directly transferred to the food. The cooking is fast and, as long as the food is properly prepared, even.

Deep-frying is the perfect way to cook foods that dont have a dense or fibrous structure, such as many seafoods, vegetables, and batters. It is also an ideal medium for cooking croquettes and fritters made of foods that have previously been cooked. There are no great secrets to deep-fryingjust a handful of rules.

1. Read the recipe all the way through and assemble all the tools and ingredients before you begin.

2. Always use clean oil. You can use the vegetable oil of your choice, but I generally recommend peanut oil for deep-frying. It has a high smoking point and lasts longer (is more stable) than most. Most animal fats will burn, or reach the smoking point, when heated to 375F; some vegetable oils have a smoking point as high as 450F. Those that have been hydrogenated and those that contain preservatives and emulsifiers, such as commercial vegetable shortenings, have much lower smoking points. The smoking point is lowered every time a fat is used.

3. Choose a pot that is larger than the heat source. Oil catches fire easily, so you want to avoid any spilling. Cast iron conducts heat evenly and holds it well, but most cast-iron skillets arent deep enough for true deep-frying. A cast-iron Dutch oven, however, makes a good frying pot. The larger the surface area, the faster the decomposition of the oil, so manufacturers have designed electric deep-fryers that are tall and narrow. One disadvantage to this type is that they dont hold much food at one time. Also, many electric fryers do not have a thermostat; shop accordingly.

4. Never fill a pot more than half full of oil. Youll need at least 3 inches between the surface of the oil and the top of the pot to allow room for the oil to bubble up.

5. Constantly monitor the temperature. Youll need a high-quality candy or deep-frying thermometer (available in restaurant supply houses if your local grocer or kitchenware shop doesnt stock one) that accurately measures temperatures from 325 to 450F. Buy one that is designed with a metal sheath that prevents anything but liquids from touching the graduated glass tube; youll want one with a clamp on it as well, so that you can attach it to the side of the pot. Place the thermometer in the oil and turn the heat to the required temperature. Do not put the heat source to its highest setting; youll want more leeway when the frying begins. The instant the oil reaches that temperature, add the food. Carefully maintain the temperature throughout the frying. Most deep-frying is done around 365F (just remember the number of days in a year). If you find yourself without a thermometer, drop a cube of home-style white bread into the hot oil: at 350F the bread fries to a golden brown in about 1 minute; at 375F, it takes about 40 seconds. A few raw doughs can be fried crisp at temperatures slightly lower than 340F, but they are the exception. Follow the temperatures indicated in each recipe.

6. Do not crowd the pot. Add only as much food as the pot can hold without the pieces touching. The oil should bubble up freely around each piece, and the temperature should not drop.

7. Use proper tools for adding and removing foods. Some fryers come with frying baskets that allow you to lower and raise the foods all at once. Baskets have two disadvantages: adding all of the food to the oil at the same time can cause the temperature to suddenly drop below 340F, at which point the food will absorb the oil and become greasy; also, batters often stick to the baskets. I use long spring-loaded tongs, an Oriental wire mesh skimmer, or a slotted utensil made expressly for the purpose (mine, a Kitchamajig, was my mothers; its still being manufactured). Avoid slotted spoons; oil often gathers in them.

If you dip your utensil in the hot oil before picking up foods to be fried, batters and breadings wont stick.

8. Remove the foods in the exact order in which they were added to the pot so that they are all evenly cooked.

9. Drain the fried foods well of all grease. The advantage of fryer baskets is that they usually have a hook that suspends the pot over the oil, where any excess grease can drain off. If youre not using a basket, simply hold each piece of food over the pot for a moment, turning it so that all grease drips back into the pot; then place the fried food on a wire rack that is placed over a baking sheet, where it will drain further. Do not place the food on paper towels or on brown paper unless the recipe tells you to do so.

10. Keep the food warm while you prepare the next batch. Few fried foods can be prepared in one batch. Have an oven preheated to its lowest setting and simply place the foodsitting on a wire rack that is set on a baking sheetin the oven while you continue frying.

11. Always follow all of these rules with each batch.

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