Annie Gray - How to Cook the Victorian way with Mrs Crocombe

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Contents

HOW TO COOK

THE VICTORIAN WAY

with

MRS CROCOMBE

HOW TO COOK

THE VICTORIAN WAY

with

MRS CROCOMBE

Annie Gray and Andrew Hann

EDITOR

Katherine Davey

CONSULTANT

EDITOR

Rebecca Seal

DESIGNER

Andrew Barron @ thextension

PRINCIPAL

PHOTOGRAPHY

Abi Bansal

HISTORICAL

DEVELOPMENT

CHEFS

Miranda Godfrey and Ian Sutton

FOOD

STYLIST

Sophie Wright

PICTURE

CREDITS

Portrait photographs on

Photograph top right is courtesy of the collection of Stan and Sarah Casbolt.

All other photographs are copyright of Historic England.

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

First published in 2020 by English Heritage

Copyright English Heritage, 100 Wood Street, London

EC

V

AN

Text copyright Annie Gray and Andrew Hann

The right of Annie Gray and Andrew Hann to be identified as the authors of this work has

been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, or by photocopying,

recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the copyright holders.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed in England by Page Bros, Norwich

ISBN

978-1-910907-42-9

END

PAPERS

Copies of the end papers in Avis Crocombes manuscript.

The opening pages of Avis Crocombes manuscript.

Audley End kitchen.

Kathy Hipperson as Avis Crocombe in the kitchen.

Contents

|

How to Cook the Victorian Way with Mrs Crocombe

To think I was going to throw this book in the bin. The original

handwritten

receipt

book

had

first

come

to

my

attention

in 1981, but the story really started with Avis Crocombe in the late

19th century.

Avis was cook to Lord and Lady Braybrooke at Audley End in the

1880s. She kept a notebook of recipes, which she had probably

brought with her from her previous position of cookhousekeeper in

Norfolk. In 1884 Avis married Benjamin Stride, a butler, whom she

must have met in London when she was with the Braybrookes at their

town house on Hanover Square. On her marriage she left service to

become a lodging-house keeper in Marylebone in north London,

taking her receipt book with her. Benjamin died in 1893 and Avis

in 1927.

My grandfather, Daniel Stride, was one of Benjamins nephews. In

the early 1890s he joined the Metropolitan Police Force, and its likely

that as the only family member living in London, Daniel saw to the

affairs of his uncle and step-aunt after their deaths, and so came into

the possession of Avis receipt book. When my grandfather died in

1949 he was living with his daughter, my aunt Elsie, in London. His

possessions were left with her, including the book, which then went

with Elsie when she married and moved to Staffordshire.

In 1981 my aunt Elsie moved into a care home. As the only young

member of the family, I helped sort out her things and so acquired

various family mementos, including the book, which I put away in a

tea chest in the attic. It stayed there until 2009, when, clearing out

the attic, my wife and I came across it again. We were on the point of

putting it in the rubbish when, looking at the opening page with its

Mrs Crocombe:

My Great Great Aunt

by

Bob Stride

Mrs Crocombe: My Great Great Aunt |

pencil notes, written perhaps by my grandfather, we thought again.

The notes told us that the book had been kept by Avis, who had

worked at Langley Park in Norfolk and Audley End in Essex. We

decided to contact Audley End to ask if they would be interested to

see it. It was a surprise a few days later when there was a call from

English Heritage to say that they would be very interested indeed.

Which is how we came to bring the book with us to Audley End

when we visited that August. The most amazing thing was that just

the previous year, the service wing had been completely refurbished

with displays set to depict life at Audley in the 1880s, and English

Heritage, knowing from its records that Avis had been cook at that

time, had historical interpreters among them Kathy Hipperson

already playing Avis and her colleagues during live events at the house.

Giving the manuscript to Audley End meant that the historical

actors could prepare recipes Avis actually wrote in her book, rather

than more general dishes from the Victorian era, as they had been

doing. Since then the receipt book has featured in newspapers

and magazines, as well as the BBC programme

Britains Hidden

Heritage

, while the numbers following the cooking videos on

YouTube have escalated.

And now a book! its overwhelming.

Bob Stride and

Kathy Hipperson

with the

manuscript

at Audley End

in 2009.

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