Micheline Mendelsohn - The Good Stuff Cookbook

The Good Stuff Cookbook

Spike Mendelsohn with Micheline Mendelsohn

Photography by Joe Shymanski

Copyright 2010 by Spike Mendelsohn. All rights reserved

Graphic Design by Joline Rivera

All rights reserved.

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company, 215 Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10003.

www.hmhco.com

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Mendelsohn, Spike.

The Good Stuff cookbook / Spike Mendelsohn with Micheline Mendelsohn.

p. cm.

Includes index.

ISBN 978-0-470-52792-4 (pbk.)

1. Cookery, American. 2. Cookery, International. 3. Good Stuff Eatery (Washington, D.C.) I. Mendelsohn, Micheline. II. Title.

TX715.M5365 2010

641.5973dc22

2009026521

v2.0115

To the dynamic duo, mom and dad, who make it all possible. XO

Life has a funny way of repeating itself.

When I think back to some of the experiences Ive had, the people I met along the way, the ups and downs of the constantly changing restaurant world, I realize you cant ever settle or relax. Everything is always in motionI have a lifetime ahead of me of line cooks not showing up, the paper goods order not coming in, the vegetable delivery missing crates, and the revolving door of staffthere are still a lot of memories waiting to be made.

One thing that has never changed for me is that this business, the restaurant business, is the epitome of family.

Family that grows up together, lives together, goes through ups and downs together, day in and day out. A restaurant family. Its a somewhat indescribable relationship if youve never lived it, but basically, you wake up at 6 a.m. to check in the inventory with a guy, and then bust your ass during a busy lunch and an even crazier dinner rush. You get out from cleaning around midnight and then turn to that same guy and say, "Hey man, lets go for a beer."

My parents started opening restaurants with their cousins in Montreal in 1989. After their first, they went on to open 32 restaurants across the country. They retired in 2001 and then came out of retirement to open Good Stuff Eatery in 2008 with some of those very same cousins. And like most ethnic families, our most recent project began with one telephone call that went through Greece, Florida, New York, Montreal, and Washington, D.C., faster than a car at the Indianapolis 500.

My sister, who had been living in D.C. for five years, walked past one of her neighborhood shops to find it had moved and the space was up for rent. Right then, she called my parents, who were in Greece, and convinced them to get off the beach and start calling the landlord. If youve ever been to Greece you know that this is an insane request, but my parents, being a little nuts themselves, started calling for the spot. So of course, we had to call Montreal to get some help; my mothers cousins Suzie Colivas and Peter Polatos were called simultaneously. This set in motion the big question, What type of restaurant do we open? After we settled that, I got a call about menu planning. I told Mike Colletti, my partner in crime at Mai House in NYC, that we needed help with a burger menu. The final piece was convincing my longtime friend Nic Georgeades to move from Florida to D.C. to launch the restaurant.

Dadthanks for always throwing me out of the office.

We all lived on twin beds and couches at my parents house for the first six weeks. No joke. During that time, I had also convinced Brian Lacayo of New York City to move to D.C. My mother was cooking for all of us, but then again, it never really mattered how many people were at my moms house; she always cooked for an army. And this is how we came to launch Good Stuff Eatery.

So theres no particular order these thanks are inits the existence of these people, this family, that has come together to push me, to keep me grounded, to allow me all the opportunities that I hope continue to come my way, that I cant thank enough.

Mike Colletti, for sharing the same vision on what this business is all about and making that commitment to move to D.C. and begin the restaurant group with us because, in case you didnt realize it, you signed up for life. Also, for your dedication, opinions, and support in helping me test out all these recipes!

Nic Georgeades, for helping me peel 100 pounds of shrimp back in the day at Pepins and for helping me peel 100 pounds of potatoes now at Good Stuff. Weve both had ups and downs but its nice to see you when I walk into the store, even if youre slacking out back on the phone.

Brian Lacayo, for saving me from all the line cooks who wanted to kick my ass! Youre a pro on the grill, on the floor, in the office, and its awesome to have you as part of the team.

Jon Malysiak, my literary agent, for seeing me on the show and getting on a plane from Chicago to D.C. to convince us this was possible. We made it! Your guidance along the way was invaluable, and youve been phenomenal to work with.

Alexandra Greeley, I still apologize for being an hour late to our interview (I would not recommend this with a food writer), but thanks for waiting and in the meantime talking with my sister, who asked you to help in the editing process. Your recommendations and editing skills were a welcome relief and absolutely necessary to finish on deadline!

Justin Schwartz and the whole team at Wiley, for believing in me and the Good Stuff philosophy and working to make this book happen. Im so grateful for all the hours youve put in!

Billy Ivey and Ted McCoig, the "Branding Geniuses", because they brought Good Stuff Eatery to life for us and gave our cow his heart.

Bess Pappas, our designer, for her love, caring, and patience through the million changes along the way. Most of all for her outstanding design.

Vince McCoullough, our architect, contractor, assistant designer, consultant, shrink, taster... who invested his heart in us.

Richard Patterson, our dear friend who showed a rare intuition and the confidence in us when we needed it.

Joe Shymanski, because what started out as a meeting at Eastern Market on Capitol Hill in Washington between my sister and this incredibly talented photographer has turned into the position Ive dubbed "family photographer for life." From shooting pre-construction to me in NYC, to opening night and many more events, you are truly amazing, and Im glad you came on for this project.

To my entire family for their help and supportIm Greek so I have about 65 cousins; couldnt include everyone but here are a few of the key players along the way...

Suzie Colivas, for getting it all started and making sure we chose the tomato red instead of the plum red color for the awning and mushroom beige instead of smoky beige for the wall paint. For sacrificing your time, interrupting your life, and for the laughs we shared to make this all possible.

Peter Polatos, our partner and cousin, for believing in the concept and our abilities to make it work and grow the vision. I hope Andrew and Michael enjoy it as much as I do and we can eventually pull them in to make fourth generation restaurateurs. PeteI promise Ill get around to naming a burger after you!