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Sam Halstead - The Stained Glass Handbook

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Sam Halstead The Stained Glass Handbook
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The Stained Glass Handbook covers everything you need to know to become proficient in stained glass. It sold out two editions when first printed and has become a favorite for teachers as well as learners for its no fluff approach.. The author is a glass artist who has worked on large commissions, autonomous panels and on the conservation of windows. A whole chapter on design considerations for commissions makes it more than just a how-to book. This 3rd edition includes sections on digital photography of architectural stained glass and a section on software for stained glass design.

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THE STAINED GLASS HANDBOOK

BY SAM HALSTEAD

Copyright 1981, 2013 by R.K. (Sam) Halstead.

All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole, or in part, in any form.


TABLE OF CONTENTS


THANKS.
Thanks to Herald Publications of Auckland, New Zealand, who printed and published the first and second print editions of this book. Unfortunately the printing plates were mislaid after two editions and 20,000 copies. Herald Publications were kind enough to allow me to keep the copyright and the book has since been fully revised and digitized. Most of the illustrations are taken from the pages of the original book. All stained glass pictured in this book, except for Juliets jewelry box, is the work of the author.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Sam Halstead ran his own stained glass studio for many years and employed other glass artists to help with the workload. The studio produced everything from simple foiled lampshades to large windows for churches and commercial buildings. Sam attended a design workshop with the German master Ludwig Schaffrath and, like many glass artists, was very influenced by glass artists of the postwar German era. The studio completed nearly 2000 commissions and Sam has held workshops around the New Zealand and the USA. He now lives and works in Southern California.


INTRODUCTION
The first step to becoming a stained glass craftsperson is obviously to learn the rudimentary construction techniques. If you desire to be an artist, and have little or no training, this should be accompanied by a study of the elements of design and the principles of design. If you think you cant draw, take some classes and do some practice. The more you develop your own creativity, the more joy you will receive from your finished products. If you are an artist or designer from another medium, you may bring a fresh perspective to the craft.
Learning the techniques and discovering the potential of stained glass are exciting experiences and I am glad to be able to share them with you.

Dig deep, express yourself, put some good music on, and have fun with this book.
Sam
1 G LASS SAFETY S afety is the most important topic in this book Glass is - photo 1


1. G LASS SAFETY


S afety is the most important topic in this book. Glass is sharp, lead can be poisonous, and soldering irons are hot. Be careful out there!
1. Carry glass vertically with both hands.
2. Do not wear sandals or open-toed shoes. If glass falls, do not try to catch it. Its a natural reaction but develop a new one stepping back out of the way.
3. Change your shoes before moving into living areas.
4. Wear safety glasses when cutting glass.
5. Keep the bench-top clear of glass scraps and splinters.
6. Do not eat or smoke while handling lead.
7. Be especially careful with lead if you are pregnant as high contamination levels can cause miscarriage.
8. Have your blood tested for lead levels every year if you are doing a lot of lead work.
9. Scrub your hands with soap and a nailbrush after lead work.
10. Vacuum the floor - do not sweep dust around.
11. Keep young children aware or away.
12. Wear a facemask on those dusty jobs like cementing and blackening.
13. Keep some Band-Aids nearby.
There is a little danger in working with glass and lead so keep your work area clean and take care.


2. TOOLS AND MATERIALS


ESSENTIAL TOOLS
This chapter may appear daunting but a starter kit of tools and materials is not extensive or even expensive. A basic kit for copper foil would price at just over $100 (shop around) and contain:
-Soldering iron
-Combination glass pliers
-Glass cutter
-Protective goggles
-Copper foil
-Flux
-Solder
-Grinding stone
-Patina
For lead work you could add, for approximately $60:
-lead vise
-Lead knife
-Lead hammer
-Glazing nails
-Cementing brushes
-Black polish
-Facemasks
Glass cutter
If there is a large variety available locally - ask for the most popular. The wheel should not be too large as this hinders maneuverability. All pictured glass cutters have an oil reservoir in the handle and automatically lubricate the wheel and scoreline. The ball end can be used for tapping the glass score from below.
Glass pliers These are used for breaking and grozing chewing glass As most - photo 2


Glass pliers
These are used for breaking and grozing (chewing) glass. As most work entails shaping small pieces of glass, a pair of combination breaking/grozing pliers are all you need.
Soldering Iron An 80 to 100-watt soldering iron with a removable tip is ideal - photo 3
Soldering Iron
An 80 to 100-watt soldering iron with a removable tip is ideal for both lead and copper foil work. To "tin" the iron tip when it is new, and whenever it gets dirty, heat it, cover it with flux, melt solder over the end and cover it with flux again. Wipe it clean on a wet sponge. You might also consider using a voltage controller to give you the right heat for different soldering applications.
Lead knife Lead knives have a curved blade balanced by a lead-weighted - photo 4
Lead knife
Lead knives have a curved blade balanced by a lead-weighted handle. The blade accentuates the rocking motion used to cut lead and the metal handle can be used for tapping glazing nails in.
Lead Cutting Pliers These are spring-loaded and can be used on smaller sized - photo 5
Lead Cutting Pliers
These are spring-loaded and can be used on smaller sized lead came (say it the usual way kaym).
Straight edge A strip of wood or a builders wooden ruler can be used for - photo 6
Straight edge
A strip of wood or a builders wooden ruler can be used for guiding the cutter on straight cuts. Always do a sight check to make sure the piece of timber is not curved.
Square
This is used for squaring up the corners of cartoons (the full size patterns). Use a large plastic or metal square.
Bench brush
A brush and dustpan helps keep the work area free of glass scraps and splinters.
Pattern paper
Use strong Kraft or butchers' paper for drawing the full size pattern.
Safety Glasses
Goggles or shielded spectacles with clear plastic lenses. Ordinary eyeglasses do not give enough protection so you need to buy goggles that will fit over them.
Newspaper Use a few sheets as a soft backing for placing glass on when - photo 7
Newspaper
Use a few sheets as a soft backing for placing glass on when scoring.
Lathekin (Fid)
This is a simple wooden or plastic tool for spreading out the flanges of soft lead if they are deformed and also for smoothing foil out before soldering. You could make one - whittle an old wooden ruler, a piece of dowel, or an ice-cream stick.
Glazing Nails Horseshoe nails are used to hold glass pieces in place as the - photo 8
Glazing Nails
Horseshoe nails are used to hold glass pieces in place as the window is built up over the pattern. These nails have long flat sides which create less pressure on the glass edges than round nails do.
Lead vise All strips of lead came need to be straightened and stretched - photo 9

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