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Sharon Wood - Rising: Becoming the First North American Woman on Everest

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Sharon Wood Rising: Becoming the First North American Woman on Everest
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Rising: Becoming the First North American Woman on Everest: summary, description and annotation

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2019 Banff Mountain Book Competition Category Finalist in Mountain LiteratureOn May 20, 1986, high on Mount Everest, Sharon Wood was ready to give up. Snow plumes swirled off the summit ridge and spilled down the North Face, engulfing her. A four-hundred-foot high rock wall, the crux of the Hornbein Couloir, loomed aboveimpossible. Then Woods partner, Dwayne Congdon, handed her the end of the rope and said, your lead. Hours later, at the far too late hour of 9:00 p.m., Wood became the first North American woman to reach the summit, and the first woman in the world to do so via the difficult West Ridge. Their ascent of the West Ridge by a new variation, without Sherpa assistance, is an accomplishment that has never been repeated.
In Rising, Wood reflects on the seventy days she spent on the mountain and on the pivotal experiences and influences that brought her to that staggeringly beautiful and austere corner of the world. Beyond the physical hardships, she faced personal challenges as an outlier in the male bastion of Himalayan climbing. These were compounded by the vexing presence of her past mentor and lover with his new girlfriend on the American team climbing on the same side of the mountain. It didnt help that the media pitched the two women as rivals, both vying to become the first North American woman to reach the summit of the highest mountain in the world. Wood rose to all these challenges, finding camaraderie and inspiration among her teammates, particularly in the expedition cook, a strong woman whose perspectives were essential to the teams remarkable esprit de corps, as well as with the other woman, her so-called American rival.
Rising is both a gripping, adrenalin-filled mountain story and a reflective memoir that reaches beyond the summit to explore a life lived in Everests long shadow: unexpected acclaim, outrageous expectations, and personal struggles. As Wood tells her story today, her perspective is steeped in six decades of life experience rich with adventure, change, growth, and humility. It is a tale that feels poignantly relevanta testament to the strength of the human spirit to overcome all obstacles, whether mountain peaks, social expectations, or self-imposed barriers.

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I lead the first pitch of Bourgeau Right-Hand in the Canadian Rockies in 1985 - photo 1
I lead the first pitch of Bourgeau Right-Hand in the Canadian Rockies in 1985 - photo 2

I lead the first pitch of Bourgeau Right-Hand in the Canadian Rockies in 1985. (Photo by Pat Morrow)

The Canadian Everest Light Team Standing left to right Laurie Skreslet and - photo 3

The Canadian Everest Light Team: Standing, left to right: Laurie Skreslet and Kevin Doyle. Back row, left to right: Barry Blanchard, Dan Griffith, Dwayne Congdon, James Blench and Dave McNab. Front row, left to right: Jim Elzinga, me, Chris Shank, Albi Sole and Dr. Bob Lee. Jane Fearing is missing from the photo. (Photo The Continental Bank)

Everest Light Route Credit Google Earth Image Landsat Coper-nicus US Dept - photo 4

Everest Light Route (Credit: Google Earth, Image Landsat / Coper-nicus, US Dept of State Geographer, Image 2019 CNES / Airbus, Image 2019 DigitalGlobe)

Albi hefts a box onto our cargo trucks in Lhasa bound for Basecamp Photo by - photo 5

Albi hefts a box onto our cargo trucks in Lhasa, bound for Basecamp. (Photo by Jim Elzinga)

Team members walk down the glacier at 6000 metres Camp Two is hidden in a - photo 6

Team members walk down the glacier at 6,000 metres. Camp Two is hidden in a hollow (centre page) at the lowest point of the rock face. Our route follows the lefthand edge of the rock to gain the snow arte (spur) above. (Photo by Jim Elzinga)

Jane makes pancakes in our kitchen shelter at Camp Two Photo by Jim Elzinga - photo 7

Jane makes pancakes in our kitchen shelter at Camp Two. (Photo by Jim Elzinga)

A view from around 7200 metres shows the 15-kilometre stretch of ridge we - photo 8

A view from around 7,200 metres shows the 1.5-kilometre stretch of ridge we follow to reach Camp Five at the base of Everests upper pyramid. (Photo by Jim Elzinga)

Team members are on their way down the West Ridge and nearing Camp Four at - photo 9

Team members are on their way down the West Ridge and nearing Camp Four at 7,300 metres. (Team photo)

The summit bid meeting is held in the Camp Two kitchen shelter Left to right - photo 10

The summit bid meeting is held in the Camp Two kitchen shelter. Left to right: Barry, Dwayne (hidden behind Barry), Albi and me. (Photo by Jim Elzinga)

Laurie helps Dwayne and me recover at Camp Five on our descent from the summit - photo 11

Laurie helps Dwayne and me recover at Camp Five on our descent from the summit. (Photo by Dan Griffith)

My son Robin age five on a family climbing day in Cougar Creek in Canmore in - photo 12

My son Robin, age five, on a family climbing day in Cougar Creek in Canmore in 1995. (Photo by Colleen Campbell)

Kevin Jim James and Barry left to right are delighted to hear from Dwayne - photo 13

Kevin, Jim, James and Barry (left to right) are delighted to hear from Dwayne and me that we are twenty feet from the summit. (Photo by Chris Shank)

RISING

RISING Becoming the First North American Woman on Everest SHARON WOOD - photo 14

RISING

Becoming the First North
American Woman on Everest

SHARON WOOD

MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS is dedicated to the exploration preservation and - photo 15
MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS is dedicated to the exploration preservation and - photo 16

MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS is dedicated to the exploration, preservation, and enjoyment of outdoor and wilderness areas.

1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, WA 98134

800-553-4453, www.mountaineersbooks.org

Copyright 2019 by Sharon Wood

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

First editions published simultaneously in 2019 in Canada by Douglas and McIntyre (2013) Ltd., Madeira Park, BC, and in the United States of America by Mountaineers Books, Seattle.

Mountaineers Books and its colophon are registered trademarks of The Mountaineers organization.

Printed in the United States of America

22 21 20 191 2 3 4 5

Epigraph on page 5 from Letters To A Young Poet by Rainer Maria Rilke, translated by M. D. Herter Norton. Copyright 1934, 1954 by W. W. Norton & Company, Inc., renewed 1962, 1982 by M. D. Herter Norton.

Part 1 quote on page 11 adapted from Scared of Bears and Scared of Being Scared, by Barbara La Fontaine, published in Sports Illustrated, July 18, 1966, 51.

Part 2 quote on page 181 from Kafka on the Shore by Haruki Murakami, translated by Philip Gabriel, 2005 by Haruki Murakami. Used by permission of ICM Partners and Alfred A. Knopf, an imprint of the Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved.

Developmental editor: Lucy Kenward

Copyeditor: Brianna Cerkiewicz

Design and layout: Lorraine Rath

Cover photograph of Sharon Wood by Mikael Kjellstrom republished with the express permission of Calgary Herald, a division of Postmedia Network Inc.

Frontispiece: Sharon Wood on the summit of Mount Everest, May 20, 1986 (Photo by Dwayne Congdon)

All Everest Light expedition photographs were taken by expedition members with cameras provided by Leica.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data is on file for this title.

Mountaineers Books titles may be purchased for corporate, educational, or other promotional sales, and our authors are available for a wide range of events. For information on special discounts or booking an author, contact our customer service at 800-553-4453 or .

Printed on recycled paper ISBN hardcover 978-1-68051-262-5 ISBN ebook - photo 17 Printed on recycled paper

ISBN (hardcover): 978-1-68051-262-5

ISBN (ebook): 978-1-68051-263-2

I want to beg you as much as I can dear sir to be patient toward all - photo 18
I want to beg you as much as I can dear sir to be patient toward all - photo 19

... I want to beg you, as much as I can, dear sir, to be patient toward all that is unsolved in your heart and to try to love the

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