Sarah Marx Feldner - A Cooks Journey to Japan: Fish Tales and Rice Paddies 100 Homestyle Recipes from Japanese Kitchens

T here is a saying in Japanese, Ichi-go, Ichi-e, which, loosely translated means a magical moment in time, never to be recreated, but only visited in memory. Working on this book has been that magical time for me. The experiences, the challenges, the people (many of whom were strangers) that helped me along the way... I truly feel the stars were aligned.

I could not have done this without you.

Thank you...

Brad, for giving me the idea I could write a book in the first place.

Ladd, for inspiring me to create something of my own.

Mikiko Komatsu, for hiring me at your English school and bringing me to Iwaki.

April (my sister), for first introducing me to Hitomi.

My Japanese family, my home away from home: Hitomi, Hideaki, Hinao & Masashi Ono; Hiromi Matsumoto; Toyozou, Takako & Noriko Ishikura; Hideo & Ikuko Ono. The love and generosity you have given me, the experiences you created and included me in... it is because of you that Japan is forever a part of me.

Contributors, without you there would beno book. Literally. Irohado Oyaki Shop (Kinasa); Takeko Kubohara (and daughters Mari & Yukari); Obuse Guide Centerespecially Etsuko Seki & Reiko Toyoda; The Hemmis (Atsuko, Hikaru, Raito, Rei, & Kei); Tono Youth Hostel; Manchan Coffee Shop (Hirosaki); Hideo & the Moya Kogen Youth Hostel; Uonuma Association for Multicultural Exchangeespecially Sekia-san, Banzai-san & Masashi Watanabe; Takamatsu Goodwill Guidesespecially Narita Shohachiro, Shizuka Maruura & Hiroko Miyoshi; EtsukoItami, Ayako Sakaguchi & their generous family; Ehime Prefectural International Centreespecially director Motoyuki Wada, coordinator Noriko Omori and the wonderful fisherman Katsuji Shigekawa; Matsuyama Youth Hostel; Michiko Nagata & Shizuka Kumamaru; Satsuma-Aji Chef (Ibusuki); Junbo Caf (Kagoshima); Ayano Naruoka and her parents Nobuyuki and Kazuyo.

Recipe Testers, for making these recipes taste and work better than I could have ever done on my own: Paul Feldner (my dad!); Sue Hoss (a fantastic baker and all-around great cook); John McMillan & Elizabeth Russell; Debra Shapiro; mother-daughter-duo Nancy & Gretchen Kern; Trish Iaccarino; Lizz Fabel; Sarah Buckley; Mandy Lindbergh; Amy Fry & Robert Ray; Amy Cassell & Sarah Bissen; Signe Knudsen; Linda Bunger; Susan Fey; Nichole Abresch; Brad Dumville (proving that even a vegan can enjoy this book!).

Susana Mojica and everyone at Rishi Tea, for helping me muddle my way through all the wonderful nuances of Japanese green tea.

Allison Silver Adelman, for all your translating services. Especially when you thought you were long-finished with this project, and then I kept coming back with one last-minute question after another.

Elizabeth Andoh, for answering my out-of-the-blue email, a correspondence that evolved into your mentoring me through this cookbook project. Crazy how things work. Thank you!

Taeko Kamei at the Tuttle office in Tokyo and June Chong at the Periplus office in Singapore, for helping facilitate communication with the contributors and photography team, as well as handling a thousand other details.

Yumi Kawachi (food stylist), for successfully recreating these recipes in Japan, relieving my perfectionist anxiety and proving they really do work. You turned words on paper into beautiful, delicious results. Additional thanks to Natsuho Sugawa (cooking assistant).

Noboru Murata (photographer), for being as talented as you are. The overall aesthetic of this cookbook was as important to me as the recipes and stories. Thank you for listening to my vision and then turning it into something even better. Additional thanks to Tomoko Osada (assistant photographer) and Kaoru Murata (photo coordinator).

Chan Sow Yun (designer), for organizing allthe components into this impressive package.

The Japanese store Grand Chef (2-18-15, Jiyugaoka, Megro-ku, Tokyo, Japan, 152-0035; Tel. 81-3-3724-8989; www.grandchef.co.jp) for lending kitchen tools and Rie Imai for lending dishware for the photography sessions.

Eric Oey (my publisher), for believing in this first-time author and helping bring my dream to a gorgeous, tangible reality.

Holly Jennings (my editor), for having patience while I got married, worked full time, wrote my monthly column, bought a house and attempted to maintain some sort of social life... all while trying to make this book the best I possibly could. Your detailed questions and edits frustrated and challenged me. The result was well worth it.

April and my very patient brother-in-law, Jesse, for allowing me to crash at your home in San Francisco for a couple of months(!) when I first got back from Japan until I figured out what next?.

Rick (my step-dad), for expanding your creativity into the kitchen, allowing me to grow up in an environment where food was fun and beautiful and meant to be played with.

Paul Feldner (father-of-mine) and Laura Marx (mumzie), for always encouraging and supporting me along the many paths Ive needed to explore. And for granting me as many opportunities as you have. I could never thank you enough for being the parents you are.

Kevin (my husband), for going through this lengthy process with me. We met when this book was already set in my mind, and the years of work that followedthe late nights, early mornings and entire weekendstook away from your time, as well. Thank you for waiting this out. I love you.

CHAPTER 1

To many, it may seem like Japanese food is just one big snackeach meal comprised of a large number of small dishes. True in part, this chapter actually contains what we in the West would consider real snacksmini-meals meant for nibbling before dinner, or with a bottle of beer and some good conversation. If youre having a party, many of these recipes are easily converted into appetizer favorites.

And when it comes to salads, they seem to be gaining more and more popularity in Japan. Although oftentimes served as simply a small mound of finely shredded cabbage alongside, say, a perfectly fried pork cutlet (see Breaded Pork Cutlets, recipe on page 104), green salads, with bright red cherry tomatoes and shaved strands of orange carrot, are becoming more common. But for me, any reason to eat a green salad in Japan is just an excuse to break out the Sesame Salad Dressing (page 35)!

Rice-Stuffed Marinated
Tofu Pockets Inarizushi

I n shades of white and tan, Inarizushi taste incredible, travel well and are favored by many. Knowing my strong preference for the little snacks, Ikuko made a huge batch for my potluck sayonara party when I first left Japan after teaching English for a year, and Hiromi sent me home to America with an artfully arranged o-bento (lunchbox) full of them.

MAKES 16 POCKETS

Eight 3 x 5-in (7.5 x 12.75-cm) sheets fried tofu (abura-age), rolled in paper towel to remove excess oil

1 cup (250 ml) reserved mushroom water (see Marinated Mushrooms, page 31) or water

6 tablespoons sugar

cup (65 ml) soy sauce

1 tablespoon mirin

1 teaspoon instant dashi powder