Timothy Hornyak - Lonely Planet Tokyo

Kabukich entertainment district ()
JOSE FUSTE RAGA / CORBIS

By Timothy Hornyak

Ive spent over 10 years in Tokyo, but this capital of the shgun always renews its spell. I love walking in a random direction and finding something unusual like a museum of musical boxes or an eye-popping glimpse of Mt Fuji over Shinjuku at sunset.

In a way, Tokyo has an infinite quality. Its always under construction, always crackling with new fads, and always swirling with people who are passionate about everything from anime to Zen. As Dr Johnson said of London, to be tired of Tokyo is to be tired of life.

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Shinjuku pulls you in and impresses with its scale and sheer variety. Where else in the world can you stand so completely enveloped by neon, flashing lights and the jangling soundtrack of pachinko (vertical pinball game) parlours and then, just a few blocks away, be among creaky wooden watering holes lit by the glow of just a few street lights? In Shinjuku you can sing karaoke to your hearts content, catch the citys best jazz musicians or dance the night away with drag queens.

Shinjuku & West Tokyo

FRANK DEIM / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Opened in 2012, the Tokyo Sky Tree is the worlds tallest tower at 634m. This digital broadcasting monolith was built with a special antiquake structure borrowed from Japanese pagodas. Two observation decks present a stunning panorama of the greater Tokyo area. The views are best at sunset and in the colder months when Mt Fujis peak pokes out above the distant mountains. Its the closest thing to a helicopter ride over the city, but far more affordable.

Asakusa & Sumida River

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Where to begin? With the eye-popping, highly covetable fashions, the cutting-edge electronics or maybe with the traditional artisan crafts? Whichever way you look at it, Tokyo is full of dangerously tempting shops. Theres literally something for everyone and even if its crafted in the wilds of Oita prefecture, odds are you can get it here in the capital. You dont have to spend a fortune though to come away with an only-in-Tokyo treasure. And window-shopping alone provides a fascinating look into Japanese pop culture, craftsmanship and design.

Shopping

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Youve never seen so many fish in your life, no matter how many aquariums youve notched. The worlds largest fish market sells billions of yen worth of seafood every year, from mountains of octopus to pallets of giant bluefin tuna. If you get up early enough and get one of the few spots, you can watch the auction action as these prized fish are bought, cut up and distributed to myriad buyers and consumers. Just dont forget to have the worlds freshest sushi for breakfast.