Geoff Coughlin - Modelling the Focke-Wulf Fw 190 A, F and G

Consultant editor Robert Oehler Series editors Marcus Cowper and Nikolai Bogdanovic

The box top artwork for Hasegawas 1/32-scale Fw 190F-8. A superb product.

There can be few more popular World War II subjects than Kurt Tanks highly capable fighter, the Focke-Wulf Fw 190. Despite early teething troubles, the mount of so many famous Experten, like Hajo Hermann, Gerhard Barkhorn, Gunther Rall and Eric Hartmann, has always been very popular with scale modellers. Just about every manufacturers range features the Fw 190 in some form or another. Hasegawas 1/72-scale kits have always been quite neat, and, more recently Tamiya have scaled down their Fw 190A-3 and D-9 from the larger 1/48 scale and very nice models they are too. Staying with the smaller scale for a moment, the Tamiya offerings are particularly nice as they feature finely recessed panel lines and accurate outline shape. Eduard do offer some excellent etched-metal detail sets for those who dare. However, for once Tamiya probably doesnt take the cup for the best offering this is reserved for Revell, with their superb Fw 190A-8/R11, a night-fighting version of the Fw 190. In addition to its minimal cost, some superb detail has been incorporated, such as the complex aerial arrangement above and below the main wings; finely detailed undercarriage units; thin trailing edges to the wings; and a detailed cockpit.

The 1/48 Tamiya Fw 190A-3. Tamiya also produce other excellent Fw 190s in quarter scale and 1/72 scale.

Moving back up to 1/48 scale, there have been some amazing releases over the years. Probably among the most desirable were those launched by Trimaster with etched-metal and vinyl parts. Although now unavailable, Dragon has released the same tooling for their Fw 190G-3 and A-8 kits (with an A-7 with wing-mounted slipper tanks listed for 2005/6), less the etched parts; even without these, they are still very nice. The moulds are wearing a bit now, with slight imperfections, and that irritating engine cowl still presents problems as it did on the original Trimaster offering. On the positive side, however, the kits feature just about the thinnest trailing edges on the wings and tailplane that Ive ever seen; detailed cockpit, undercarriage and wheel well units; and probably the most accurate outline shape overall for an Fw 190 scale model. By adding either a Cutting Edge or SAM Publications resin engine cowl, the Dragon/Trimaster kits are much easier to construct.

If you want to build a really enjoyable quarter-scale Fw 190, youll probably go for the Tamiya A-3 or F-8. The fit is flawless and the construction phase will take you no time at all leaving you free to concentrate on any one of the vast numbers of Luftwaffe schemes available in decal form. The A-3 is easily converted to an A-4, as we shall see later. Or why not try their new A-8?

The final word has to be reserved for Hasegawa and their three stunning models in 1/32 scale: an A-5, A-8 and F-8. All are superbly tooled and, partly because its my preferred scale, all feature in this book. I hope that you like the six projects presented. Ive tried to illustrate the wide range of schemes applied by the Luftwaffe to Focke-Wulf Fw 190s, the variety of which has greatly inspired my scale modelling. I hope that they inspire you too.

The Luftwaffe High Command preferred this term, as opposed to the Allied equivalent of ace.

Luftwaffe scale modelling has much in common with other subject areas, but there are differences, like creating reasonably accurate scale mottling along the fuselage sides. In this section I will focus on some of the essential tools and materials that I have used to achieve the results shown in this book.

There really is no substitute for good daylight but we sometimes need to model in the evenings (and into the wee small hours on occasions), and for these times there are a couple of choices. Until recently I simply used clear blue daylight bulbs that are readily available from stores with lighting departments. This gives a natural light and works well most of the time and is a very cost-effective solution to the yellow light problem most household bulbs deliver.

However, try investing in a purpose made polarised daylight tube light such as that produced by Actulite. This is an excellent lighting system that floods your workbench and causes little or no eyestrain in my experience. It also offers great coverage across the whole workbench. Youll get about three years of use from each tube.

Good quality liquid cement is necessary for most tasks during assembly. However, I use cyanoacrylate (or superglue) for an increasing number of tasks apart from attaching etched-metal and resin parts. It acts as a good filler, especially if you set it instantly using an activator or accelerator from the likes of Sylmasta and others. Micro Kristal Klear is ideal for attaching canopies and clear parts as it doesnt fog or cloud these items, and dries clear.

Cyanoacrylate (superglue) such as that supplied by Zap-A-Gap is fundamental to successful scale modelling. Its great for strong bonds and filling.

These days we have so much choice, and we all have our preferences but I would really recommend experimenting. All the main paint manufacturers offer excellent products. I mainly use Xtracolor gloss enamels for Luftwaffe Fw 190 camouflage schemes. Because it dries to a gloss finish, its ready to decal straight after drying. Incidentally, I thin this paint with cellulose thinners as it significantly speeds up drying time. Xtracolor matt paints are excellent too and I often use them. I also use Hannants Xtracrylix, Poly Scale, and Tamiya Color acrylic when time is at a premium because it dries so quickly. Ordinary distilled water is fine to thin Poly Scale but I use the manufacturers thinner for Hannants and Tamiya paint. For fine detail painting of the Fw 190 cockpit, I would recomend Citadel Colour watercolours.

Cellulose thinners is ideal for thinning Xtracolor enamel paints. It greatly reduces drying time. Always take care when using cellulose thinners, and work in a well-ventilated environment.

I currently use a Badger 200X for large areas because its an excellent all-round airbrush. Paint is adjusted using a threaded screw attached to the back of the needle. Badger Spray Away is good for cleaning out enamels and Tamiya Color when a session is over. For more detailed, fine spraying I use a Badger 150 an excellent double-action airbrush. Double-action simply means that you can adjust the paint and air from the sliding trigger all in one movement. This movement is essential for creating the fine mottling on many Fw 190s.