Shoshana-Rose Marzel - Dress and Ideology Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present

DRESS AND
IDEOLOGY

DRESS AND
IDEOLOGY

Fashioning Identity from
Antiquity to the Present

EDITED BY
SHOSHANA-ROSE MARZEL
AND GUY D. STIEBEL

Contents

Editors

Shoshana-Rose Marzel

Dr. Shoshana-Rose Marzel is lecturer at the History and Theory department, Bezalel, the Jerusalem Academy of Art and Design. Marzel specializes in fashion studies (theory and history), gender studies and nineteenth-century French novels. Her book on fashion in nineteenth-century French novels, LEsprit du chiffon: le v tement dans le roman franais du XIXme sicle , was published by Peter Lang in 2005. She was invited editor of no. 39/2 (2006) of the academic French periodical Archives Juives, revue dhistoire des Juifs de France , on Jews in the Clothes industry and commerce, in France, and of no. 24 (2013) of the online academic French periodical Bulletin du CRFJ , affiliated to the CNRS (with Gal Ventura), on XIXth Century French Visual Culture, France and International Convergences .

Guy D. Stiebel

Dr. Guy Stiebel is a lecturer in the Department of Archaeology and Near Eastern Cultures at Tel Aviv University. He specializes in military archaeology and history and themes of material culture. In the past 17 years, Stiebel has co-directed the excavations at Masada on behalf of the Institute of Archaeology, The Hebrew University of Jerusalem. His study focuses upon material culture in Classical Palestine and mostly the encounter between material culture and literary sources. He earned his PhD at University College London (UCL) for the study Armis et litteris: Roman military Equipment of Early Roman Palestine in Light of the Archaeological and historical Sources . His four years post-doc fellowship, at the Orion Center for the Study of the Dead Sea Scrolls and Associated Literature, was devoted to the study of the archaeology ( realia aspects) of the War Scroll. Stiebel has published over 40 papers and co-edited six books. He serves as a co-editor of the series New Studies in the Archaeology of Jerusalem and its Region of the Hebrew University and the Israel Antiquities Authority.

Contributors (in alphabetical order)

Lindsay Allason-Jones

Lindsay Allason-Jones was Director of the Centre for Interdisciplinary Artefact Studies and Reader in Roman Material Culture at Newcastle University until she retired in 2011. She was previously Director of Archaeological Museums for the university. An acknowledged authority on artefacts, particularly those from Hadrians Wall, Roman Britain and Roman and Medieval Sudan, she is the author of 13 books, including Women in Roman Britain and Daily Life in Roman Britain . She is Trustee of many of the Hadrians Wall museums, as well as the Hadrians Art Trust.

Oz Almog

Oz Almog is Associate Professor (full tenure), Department of Land of Israel Studies, University of Haifa. He has published widely in scholarly journals and edited and authored books, including The Sabra: The Creation of the New Jew (University of California Press: Berkeley, 2000) and Wielokulturowy Izrael (Multicultural Israel) [Polish] (2011). Wydawnictwo Wyzszej Szkoly Pedagogicznej, TWP w Warszawie, Warszawa. His Farewell to Srulik: Changing Values among the Israeli Elite , 2 vols (Zmora Bitan and Haifa University Press: 2004) was a bestseller in Israel and won two awards: the Bahat Award (University of Haifa Press and Zemora-Bitan Press) and the Rozen-Zvi Award (Faculty of Law, Tel Aviv University).

Ory Bartal

Dr. Ory Bartal is currently head of the History and Theory Department at Bezalel, the Jerusalem Academy of Arts and Design. His work focuses on Japanese Visual Culture and Contemporary Design. Bartal earned his Ph.D. in Cultural Studies from Tel Aviv University, and also holds an M.B.A. degree from Aoyama Gakuin University in Tokyo, Japan. In addition, Bartal is also an expert in Japanese marketing and business practices, with over 10 years of experience in senior positions at leading technology companies active in the Japanese market. Bartal contributes regularly to scientific journals.

Henriette Dahan-Kalev

Prof. Henriette Dahan-Kalev is a political scientist by training and specializes in gender and politics (theory and practice of political resistance). Dahan-Kalev is the founder of the Gender Studies Program at the Ben Gurion University and regularly contributes to scientific journals. Her article Youre so PrettyYou Dont Look Moroccan ( Israeli Studies 6 [2001], pp. 114) is considered groundbreaking. It is often reprinted and taught in introductory courses of postcolonial and critical studies in Israel and abroad.

Antonia Finnane

Antonia Finnane is Professor of History at the University of Melbourne with a research specialization in the social and cultural history of early modern and modern China. Her publications include Speaking of Yangzhou: A Chinese City, 15501850 (Harvard East Asian Monographs 2004), winner of the 2006 Levenson award for a work on pre-twentieth-century China, and Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, Nation, History (New York: Columbia University Press, 2008). At present she serves as an associate editor (pre-1898 China) of the Journal of Asian Studies . Her current research concerns the impact of Maoism on small shops in Beijing during the periods of socialist transformation and the Cultural Revolution.

Beverly Lemire

Beverly Lemire received her D.Phil. from Oxford University and between 1987 and 2004 taught British History at the University of New Brunswick, Canada. In 2004 she moved to the University of Alberta, where she serves as Professor of History and Henry Marshall Tory Chair in the Department of History and Classics and the Department of Human Ecology. Her publications include Fashions Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain , 16601800 (1991); Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory (1997); The Business of Everyday Life: Gender, Practice and Social Politics in Britain 16001800 (2005); and Cotton (2011), in the series Textiles that Changed the World . Recent edited works include a four-volume collection of documents The British Cotton Trade (2009) and The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society: Global Perspectives from Early Modern to Contemporary Times (2010).

Peter McNeil

Peter McNeil is Professor of Design History at the University of Technology Sydney and Professor of Fashion Studies at Stockholm University. His work crosses chronologies and geographies from the eighteenth to the twentieth centuries; the focus is West Europe, North America, and Australia. He is currently an Investigator within Fashioning the Early Modern: Innovation and Creativity in Europe, 15001800 , a Humanities in the European Research AreaJoint Research Programme (201013). He is editor and co-editor of eight works on fashion, including the four-volume work Critical and Primary Sources in Fashion (Berg, 2009). In 2014 he was appointed Distinguished Professor, University of Aalto, within the Academy of Finland FiDiPro scheme.

Asher Salah

Dr. Asher Salah is senior lecturer at Bezalel, the Academy of Art and Design in Jerusalem. He is one of the leading specialists in the history and literature of Italian Jewry and a translator of Hebrew literature. He has written extensively on Jewish History in Italy, Cinema Studies, and contemporary Middle East politics. Amongst his numerous publications, his book La Rpublique des Lettres: Rabbins, mdecins et crivains juifs en Italie au XVIIIme sicle , was published by Brill, Leiden/Boston, in 2007.

Gal Ventura

Dr. Gal Ventura is senior lecturer at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. She is an art historian and deals mainly with nineteenth-century art, the history of the family, maternity, breastfeeding, death, and Christian iconography in modern and contemporary art. She is co-editor of Bezalel History and Theory departments inter-disciplinary peer-reviewed e-journal, Protocols , in which she has published several articles. Her book, Crying over Spilt Milk: Maternal Breast-feeding and its Substitutes in nineteenth-Century French Art , was published in 2013 by Magnes Press.