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The challenge of K2 : a history of the savage mountain: summary, description and annotation

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K2 is a legend - one of the most demanding mountaineering challenges in the world and one of the most treacherous. Extreme, unpredictable weather and the acutely difficult climbing conditions test the technique, endurance and psychological strength of the most experienced mountaineers to the limit and often beyond.
Many of the men and women who have sought to reach the summit have failed, often with tragic consequences - over 70 of them have died or disappeared. Yet this, the second highest mountain on Earth, continues to exercise for the worlds top mountaineers a special, and all too often lethal attraction.
Richard Sales fascinating new book traces the climbing history of K2 over the last 150 years, he shows in graphic detail how it acquired this awesome reputation: it was during the first serious attempts on the summit in the 1930s and 1950s that K2 became known as the Savage Mountain

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Acknowledgements

The author is very grateful to the following for information and photographs: the American Alpine Club, Willi Bauer, the late Charles Houston, the late Lino Lacedelli, Mario Lacedelli, the late Bob Marshall, Lars Nessa, Wilco van Rooijen, Mike Searle, Pavel Shabalin, the US Library of Congress and Jim Wickwire. Thanks also to Reinhold Schmuck for assistance with translations, to Tadeusz Hudowski and Glyn Hughes at the UK Alpine Club Library, and to Eugene Rae at the RGS Library.

Appendix 1
K2 Ascent Data

Key: x = ascent without supplementary oxygen

f = female climber

Note: climbers ascending the peak for the second time are listed but not numbered in this tablex

1Achille COMPAGNONIIt31. 07. 1954Abruzzi Spur
2Lino LACEDELLIIt31. 07. 1954Abruzzi Spur
3Shoji NAKAMURAJp08. 08. 1977Abruzzi Spur
4Tsuneo SHIGEHIROJp08. 08. 1977Abruzzi Spur
5Takayoshi TAKATSUKAJp08. 08. 1977Abruzzi Spur
6Ashraf AMANPak09. 08. 1977Abruzzi Spur
7Mitsuo HIROSHIMAJp09. 08. 1977Abruzzi Spur
8Masahide ONODERAJp09. 08. 1977Abruzzi Spur
9Hideo YAMAMOTOJp09. 08. 1977Abruzzi Spur
10Louis F. REICHARDTxUSA06. 09. 1978NE Ridge -Abruzzi Spur
11James WICKWIREUSA06. 09. 1978NE Ridge -Abruzzi Spur
12Richard RIDGEWAYUSA07. 09. 1978NE Ridge -Abruzzi Spur
13John ROSKELLEYxUSA07. 09. 1978NE Ridge -Abruzzi Spur
14Michael DACHERxGer12. 07. 1979Abruzzi Spur
15Reinhold MESSNERxIt12. 07. 1979Abruzzi Spur
16Eiho OHTANIJp07. 08. 1981West Ridge/SW side
17Nazir Ahmad SABIRPak07. 08. 1981West Ridge/SW side
18Nao SAKASHITAxJp14. 08. 1982North Ridge
19Yukihiro YANAGISAWAxJp14. 08. 1982North Ridge
20Hiroshi YOSHINOxJp14. 08. 1982North Ridge
21Hironobu KAMUROxJp15. 08. 1982North Ridge
22Haruichi KAWAMURAxJp15. 08. 1982North Ridge
23Tatsuji SHIGENOxJp15. 08. 1982North Ridge
24Kazushige TAKAMIxJp15. 08. 1982North Ridge
25Agostino DA POLENZAxIt31. 07. 1983North Ridge
26Josef RAKONCAJxCz31. 07. 1983North Ridge
27Sergio MARTINIxIt04. 08. 1983North Ridge
28Fausto DE STEFANIxIt04. 08. 1983North Ridge
29Norbert JOOSxCH19. 06. 1985Abruzzi Spur
30Marcel RUEDIxCH19. 06. 1985Abruzzi Spur
31Erhard LORETANxCH06. 07. 1985Abruzzi Spur
32Pierre MORANDxCH06. 07. 1985Abruzzi Spur
33Jean TROILLETxCH06. 07. 1985Abruzzi Spur
34Eric ESCOFFIERxF06. 07. 1985Abruzzi Spur
35Daniel LACROIXxF07. 07. 1985Abruzzi Spur
36Stephane SCHAFFTERxCH07. 07. 1985Abruzzi Spur
37Kazunari MURAKAMIJp24. 07. 1985Abruzzi Spur
38Noboru YAMADAxJp24. 07. 1985Abruzzi Spur
39Kenji YOSHIDAJp24. 07. 1985Abruzzi Spur
40Wanda RUTKIEWICZf xPol23. 06. 1986Abruzzi Spur
41Liliane BARRARDf xF23. 06. 1986Abruzzi Spur
42Maurice BARRARDxF23. 06. 1986Abruzzi Spur
43Michel PARMENTIERxF23. 06. 1986Abruzzi Spur
44Mari ABREGOxE23. 06. 1986Abruzzi Spur
45Josema CASIMIROxE23. 06. 1986Abruzzi Spur
46Giovanni CALCAGNOxIt05. 07. 1986Abruzzi Spur
47Benot CHAMOUXxF05. 07. 1986Abruzzi Spur
48Soro DOROTEIxIt05. 07. 1986Abruzzi Spur
49Martino MORETTIxIt05. 07. 1986Abruzzi Spur
Josef RAKONCAJxCz05. 07. 1986Abruzzi Spur
50Tullio VIDONIxIt05. 07. 1986Abruzzi Spur
51Beda FUSTERxCH05. 07. 1986Abruzzi Spur
52Rolf ZEMPxCH05. 07. 1986Abruzzi Spur
53Jerzy KUKUCZKAxPol08 .07. 1986South Face (Central Rib)
54Tadeusz PIOTROWSKIxPol08 .07. 1986South Face (Central Rib)
55Bong-Wan JANGSK03. 08. 1986Abruzzi Spur
56Byong-Ho CHANGSK03. 08. 1986Abruzzi Spur
57Chang-Sun KIMSK03. 08. 1986Abruzzi Spur
58Petetr BOKxSlk03. 08. 1986SSW Pillar (MagIt Line)
59Przemysaw PIASECKIxPol03. 08. 1986SSW Pillar (MagIt Line)
60Wojciech WRxPol03. 08. 1986SSW Pillar (MagIt Line)
61Wilhelm BAUERxA04. 08. 1986Abruzzi Spur
62Alfred IMITZERxA04. 08. 1986Abruzzi Spur
63Alan ROUSExUK04. 08. 1986Abruzzi Spur
64Kurt DIEMBERGERxA04. 08. 1986Abruzzi Spur
65Julie TULLISf xUK04. 08. 1986Abruzzi Spur
66Hirotaka IMAMURAJp09. 08. 1990NW Face - North Ridge/
Face
67Hideji NAZUKAJp09. 08. 1990NW Face - North Ridge/
Face
68Gregory CHILD
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