ALSO BY
WADE DAVIS
INTO THE SILENCE
The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest
Into the Silence is the definitive story of the British adventurers who survived the trenches of World War I and went on to risk their lives climbing Mount Everest. On June 6, 1924, two men set out from a camp perched at 23,000 feet on an ice ledge just below the lip of Everests North Col. George Mallory, thirty-seven, was Britains finest climber. Sandy Irvine was a twenty-two-year-old Oxford scholar with little previous mountaineering experience. Neither of them returned. Drawing on more than a decade of prodigious research, bestselling author and explorer Wade Davis vividly re-creates the heroic efforts of Mallory and his fellow climbers, setting their significant achievements in sweeping historical context: from Britains nineteenth- century imperial ambitions to the war that shaped Mallorys generation. Theirs was a country broken, and the Everest expeditions emerged as a powerful symbol of national redemption and hope. In Daviss rich exploration, he creates a timeless portrait of these remarkable men and their extraordinary times.
History
VINTAGE CANADA
Available wherever books are sold.
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VINTAGE CANADA EDITION, 2021
Copyright 2020 by Wade Davis
Maps copyright 2020 by David Lindroth Inc.
All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review.
Published by Vintage Canada, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited, Toronto. Originally published in hardcover by Alfred A. Knopf Canada, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited, Toronto, in 2020. This edition simultaneously published in the United States of America by Vintage Books, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York. Distributed in Canada by Penguin Random House Canada Limited, Toronto.
Vintage Canada and colophon are registered trademarks of Penguin Random House Canada Limited.
www.penguinrandomhouse.ca
LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES CANADA CATALOGUING IN PUBLICATION
Title: Magdalena : river of dreams / Wade Davis.
Names: Davis, Wade, author.
Identifiers: Canadiana 20190159049 | ISBN 9780735278943 (softcover)
Subjects: LCSH : Magdalena River (Colombia) | ColombiaHistory.
Classification: LCC F 2281. M 23 . D 38 2022 | DDC 986.1/16dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019022605
Author photograph Adam Dillon
Book design by Soonyoung Kwon, adapted for ebook
Cover photograph: Caucastill 01:42. From the Atlas of the Andes series 2014 Camilo Echavarra
ep_prh_5.5.0_c0_r1
For Martn von Hildebrand,
friend and brother, who more than any other allowed me to see and understand the ways of a forest that fires the hearts of all good people of the world
And even in our sleep, pain which cannot forget falls drop by drop upon the heart, until in our own despair, against our will, comes wisdom through the awful grace of God.
AESCHYLUS
Contents
Preface
Travelers often become enchanted with the first country that captures their hearts and gives them license to be free. For me, it was Colombia. The mountains and forests, rivers and wetlands, the mysterious pramos, and the beauty and power of every tropical glen and snow-crested equatorial peak opened a doorway to a wider world that I would spend my entire life coming to know. In ways impossible fully to explain, the country allowed me, even as a boy, to imagine and dream. Coming of age in Colombia in the early 1970s, living on the open road, sleeping where my hat fell, I was never afraid. The warmth of the people enveloped a young traveler like a protective cloak, tailor-made for wonder. The land itself inspired one to risk, as I wrote in the frontispiece of an early teenage journal, discomfort and uncertainty for understanding. Colombia me dio alas para volar. Colombia, as a friend once remarked, gave me the wings to fly.
This strange affair, the love of a boy for a land and a people, began innocently enough in 1968 when my mother, a modest but determined Canadian woman, told me that Spanish was the language of the future. She worked all year as a secretary to earn enough money to allow me to join a small party of schoolboys that a language teacher proposed to take to Colombia. At a time when most Canadians and Americans had never experienced a commercial flight, the South American destination was terribly exotic, as indeed was the character of the man leading the adventure. The teacher was English by birth, dapper in appearance, with a scent of cologne that in those days gave him the fey veneer of a dandy, an impression betrayed by the scars on his face and a glass eye that marked a body blown apart in the war. A perfect foil to orthodoxy, Mr. Forrester was mischievous, slightly transgressive, and more than a little subversive, traits of character that made him a total inspiration to teenage boys on the loose.
At fourteen, I was the youngest of the group and the most fortunate, for unlike the others, who spent a sweltering season in the streets of Cali, I was billeted with a family in the mountains above the valley, at the edge of trails that reached west to the Pacific. It was a classic Colombian scene: children too numerous to keep track of, an indulgent father, a grandmother who muttered to herself on a porch overlooking flowers and fruit trees, an angelic sister who more than once carried her brother and me home half-drunk to a mother, kind beyond words, who stood by the garden gate, hands on hips, feigning anger as she tapped her foot on the stone steps. For eight weeks, I encountered the warmth and decency of a people charged with a strange intensity, a passion for life, and a quiet acceptance of the frailty of the human spirit. Several of the older Canadian students longed for home. I felt as if I had finally found it.