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Hervé This - Kitchen mysteries : revealing the science of cooking = Les secrets de la casserole

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Hervé This Kitchen mysteries : revealing the science of cooking = Les secrets de la casserole
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    Kitchen mysteries : revealing the science of cooking = Les secrets de la casserole
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Kitchen mysteries : revealing the science of cooking = Les secrets de la casserole: summary, description and annotation

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From Publishers Weekly

Fans of Curious Cook Harold McGee will relish the latest from This (Molecular Gastronomy), a French chemist and foodie hero who has helped to usher in the current restaurant world vogue for turning the kitchen into a laboratory. This uses simple questions and observations about food (Does hot pepper burn a hole in the stomach?; Why must infants not be fed sausages?) as springboards for delightful explorations into culinary scientific principles. In brief, confident chapters, he moves through assorted ingredients (milk, vegetables, cheese), cooking methods (steaming, roasting, deep-frying) and whole categories of food and drink (bread, cake, sauces, salad) in his quest to explain kitchen phenomena. The book is more practical than theoretical, as This often breezes over much of the science, focusing not on the experiments and equations that answered his questions but rather on what they mean for the cook: how to ripen tomatoes properly, why to cook a roux for a long time, and so on. He distances himself even further from typical scientific writing with his charmingly enthusiastic tone, which keeps his prose from sounding dry even when he goes into more details about enzyme properties or protein varieties, so that even those who might be turned off by the thought of food chemistry will quickly be drawn in by his obvious love of food and eagerness to apply his research to helping people cook better. (Dec.)
Copyright Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Review

Fans of Curious Cook Harold McGee will relish the latest from This ( Molecular Gastronomy), a French chemist and foodie hero who has helped to usher in the current restaurant world vogue for turning the kitchen into a laboratory.... Even those who might be turned off by the thought of food chemistry will quickly be drawn in by his obvious love of food and eagerness to apply his research to helping people cook better.

(Publishers Weekly Vol 450. No 22)

This has made invisible processes visible, revealed the mysteries, and the bread has risen, baked, and been enjoyed.

(Claudia Kousoulas Appetite for Books 11/16/07)

Cooks who want to learn more about the chemistry and physics that make their efforts possible will discover useful things here.

(Booklist 12/2/07)

Thiss molecular gastronomy is garnished with the authors own rich philosophy of food and flavor.

(Peter Barham Nature 3/30/08)

An exuberant paean for the role of science in cooking... Thiss book performs a great service.

(Len Fisher Times Higher Education Supplement 3/30/208)

This book should be in every kitchen.

(Christine Sismondo Toronto Star 6/11/08)

[An] eye-opening book.

(Kate Colquhoun Portsmouth Herald 8/1/08)

Witty and humorous... [readers] whose eyes glaze over at the very mention of electrons may find themselves becoming entranced by This graceful descriptions of essential chemical reactions.

(Lynn Harnett Seacoast Sunday )

Well crafted, sprinkled with insight, and containing a menagerie of information, Kitchen Mysteries is a wonderful trip down a stellar buffet line.

(J. Edward Sumerau Metro Spirit )

Kitchen Mysteries is another tour de force for the French scientific chef... Highly Recommended.

(Choice )

Thiss book offers expert explanations that give the reader a better understanding of both cooking and cuisine. As such, it is enticing.

(Pierre Laszlo Chemical Heritage )

Hervé This: author's other books


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Kitchen mysteries revealing the science of cooking Les secrets de la casserole - image 1
Cooking and Science
Venial Sins, Mortal Sins
Add the cheese bchamel to the egg whites, beaten into stiff peaks, without collapsing them! Such vague instructions in a souffl recipe often make amateur cooks nervous. How to avoid collapsing those laboriously beaten egg whites? In our ignorance, we begin by using what we think is a gentlethat is, slowtechnique. The egg whites and the bchamel do not mix easily, so we stop before we have a homogeneous blend or we stir the two ingredients so long that the egg whites collapse. In both cases, the effect is the same: the souffl is ruined.
Where does the fault lie? With the cookbook that takes for granted such simple techniques, known to professionals but not sufficiently mastered by the general public? With the neophyte, who naively, even presumptuously, ventures into a discipline that is not so simple as it seems?
Difficulties like those encountered in preparing a souffl do not jeopardize our access to the realm of taste, and even the cookbooks scant instructions mark only a venial sin. With a little research, the novice will soon track down an explanation of the basic culinary techniques, and, reassured, she or he will come around to acceptingeven to wishingthat cookbooks not all repeat the same advice, which he once considered them to be lacking.
On the other hand, more troubling, it seems to me, are such terse phrases as Mix the egg yolks two by two into the cheese bchamel sauce thus prepared. Why two by two? And why not six at once if I am in a hurry? This time, the explanation is nowhere to be found. Experience alone demonstrates the validity (or not!) of the advice. A few attempts to break the rule will return the audacious cook to the wisdom of the ancients, but he will remain intellectually frustrated if he is as curious as he is epicurean.
In this work, I want to share with you the explanations that science offers for those empirical precepts handed down from chef to chef and from parent to child. Better understood, the bits of advice and suggested techniques that cookbook authors offer in passing will be better respected. Knowing the reasons behind them, you will be able to follow recipes considered difficult for their thousands of fundamental trifles and achieve results you never expected. You will learn to adapt recipes to the ingredients available to you; sometimes you will even modify proposed techniques according to the available utensils. Feeling equal to the task, you will be more confident and more relaxed, and you will be able to call into play all your innate creativity.
Canard la Brillat-Savarin
To whet your appetite by giving you the chance to verify that an infusion of science can have its usefulness in cooking, I offer you a recipe that compensates for the inadequacies of the microwave: a quick canard lorange.
Who has not taken a bland, gray, tasteless piece of meat from his microwave? Should we prohibit the use of microwaves for cooking meat and restrict them to reheating prepared dishes? It would be a shame to deprive ourselves of their advantages (quick, economic, energy-efficient cooking), but we must learn the specific possibilities this new kind of cooking offers, so that we do not ask it for more than it can give. As the old, politically incorrect proverb says, even the most beautiful woman in the world can only give what she has.
Microwave cooking is no great mystery. Very simply, microwaves heat the specific parts of food that contain lots of water. In other words, if we are not careful and put a piece of meat in a microwave oven, we will only succeed in steaming it. What a shame to turn duck or beef tenderloin into stew!
Why are microwaves so deficient when used in this way? Because they skip over one of the three fundamental functions of cooking. Cooking must, of course, kill microorganisms and make tough, fibrous, or hard-to-digest foods assimilable. But it must also make food taste good.
If grilling works wonderfully, it is precisely because it fulfills these roles simultaneously. First, the surface of the meat hardens because the surface juices evaporate while the meat proteins coagulate. Second, the meats constituents react chemically to form vividly colored molecules but also odorant or tasty ones. In other words, a flavorful and colored crust is formed. Within the piece of meat, the collagen molecules that toughen the meat are broken down. The meat becomes tender. If the meat is seared, that is, cooked quite rapidly, the juices at its center do not disperse too much toward the exterior, and the meat retains its succulence and its juiciness. Biting into the meat will break the muscle fibers so that internal juices are released, bathing the mouth in a wave of delicate sensations.
Let us recognize in passing some principal chemical reactions in cooking, Maillard reactions, to which I will often return in this book: acted upon by heat, the molecules of the family to which our table sugar belongs (wrongly called carbohydrates, because these compounds are not strictly speaking made of carbon and water) and amino acids (the individual links in those large protein molecules) react and produce various odorant and tasty molecules. In cooking, this is one of the reactions we utilize to add savor even when we do not add flavorings to our dishes.
To make a canard lorange worthy of its name, the microwave will not suffice. Since microwaves heat water in particular and do not increase internal temperatures to more than 100C (212F, the boiling point of water) in ordinary culinary conditions, they do not promote Maillard reactions. In the canard la Brillat-Savarin that I am suggesting you make, the microwave will only be used for the braising, after a quick turn in the frying pan.
Control your desire to discover this much anticipated recipe and grant me a few lines to introduce you briefly to the one to whom I have dedicated it, one of the greatest gastronomes of all time, the author of the Treatise on the Physiology of Flavour, which every gourmand ought to have read.
His mother was a blue ribbon chef named Aurore (hence the name of the sauce), but Jean-Anthelme Brillat (1755-1826) took the name Savarin from one of his aunts, as a condition for becoming her heir. Because of the French Revolution, his was a turbulent career. After spending some time in exile in the United States, he returned to France, where he was named adviser to the French Supreme Court in 1800. Two years before his death, he published the book that made him famous and from which I will draw many precepts, quotations, and anecdotes in the pages that follow.
Now for that duck recipe. Begin with thighs that you have grilled in clarified butter over a very hot flame but for a very short time, long enough to allow a lovely golden crust to appear. The clarification of butter, that is, melting butter slowly and using only the liquid fatty portion of the melted product, is useful as butter thus treated does not darken during cooking. After the first grilling process, the meat is still inedible because the center remains raw, and we know that duck must be cooked! Using a paper towel, blot the fat from the surface of the thighs, and, using a syringe, inject the center of the meat with Cointreau (better yet, with Cointreau into which you have dissolved salt and infused pepper). Place the thighs in a microwave for a few minutes (the precise amount of time will vary according to the number of pieces and the power of the oven). During the cooking process, the surface of the meat will dry slightly and need no further treatment. On the other hand, the center of the meat will be braised in an alcohol vapor and flavored with orange (my own personal taste also prompts me to stud the flesh with cloves before microwaving it).
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