Jeanne Cooper - Frommer’s Shortcut Kauai

Waipoo Falls.

T ime has been kind to Kauai, the oldest and northernmost of the Hawaiian Islands. Millions of years of erosion have carved fluted ridges, emerald valleys, and glistening waterfalls into the flanks of Waialeale, the extinct volcano at the center of this near-circular isle. Similar eons have created a ring of enticing sandy beaches and coral reefs. Kauais wild beauty sometimes translates to rough seas and slippery trails, but with a little caution, anyone can safely revel in the islands natural grandeur.

Essentials

Arriving

By Plane A number of North American airlines offer regularly scheduled, nonstop service to Kauais main airport in Lihue (airport code: LIH) from the Mainland, nearly all from the West Coast. ( Note: From Los Angeles, flights generally take about 5 hours heading to Kauai, but only 4 hours on the return, due to prevailing winds.)

United Airlines (www.united.com; 800/225-5825 ) flies nonstop to Kauai daily from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Denver. American Airlines (www.aa.com; 800/433-7300 ) and Delta Airlines ( www.delta.com ; 800/221-1212 ) each have nonstop flights from Los Angeles. US Airways ( www.usairways.com; 800/428-4322 ), which at press time was slowly merging with American Airlines, flies nonstop from Phoenix. American also code-shares on some routes of Alaska Airlines, which flies nonstop to Lihue from San Jose, Oakland, and San Diego in California as well as Portland and Seattle in the Pacific Northwest. Tip: Upgrading to first class is often easiest and cheapest on Alaska.

Other carriers service varies by season. WestJet (www.westjet.com; 888/937-8538 ) offers its most frequent nonstop flights between Vancouver and Lihue December to March. From late May to mid-September, Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianairlines.com; 800/367-5320 ) flies nonstop to Lihue four times a week from Los Angeles and thrice weekly from Oakland.

You can also travel to Lihue via Oahu and Maui. Hawaiian Airlines (see above) flies to Kauai up to 19 times a day from Honolulu and four times a day from Kahului, Maui. The Honolulu route lasts about 35 minutes; the Maui route, about 10 minutes more, both using Boeing 717 s that seat around 120. Island Air ( www.islandair.com; 800/652-6541 ) flies twin-engine turboprops, with 64 passengers, from Honolulu six times a day; flights take about 45 minutes.

Note: The view from either side of the plane as you land in Lihue, 2 miles east of the center of town, is arresting. On the left side, passengers have a close look at Haupu Ridge, separating the unspoiled beach of Kipu Kai (seen in The Descendants) from busy Nawiliwili Harbor; on the right, shades of green demar cate former sugarcane fields, coconut groves, and the ridgeline of Nounou (Sleeping Giant) to the north.

By Cruise Ship Several cruise lines call in Kauais main port of Nawiliwili, but Norwegian Cruise Lines (www.ncl.com; 866/234-7350 ) is unusual in offering weekly Hawaii itineraries that include overnight stays on Kauai and Maui, allowing for multiple excursions.

Visitor Information

Before your trip begins, visit www.gohawaii.com/kauai, the website of the Kauai Visitors Bureau ( 800/262-1400 ) and download or view its free Kauai Vacation Planner. ( Note: The bureaus location in Lihues Watumull Plaza, 4334 Rice St., Suite 101, is not the most convenient area for drop-bys, but its open 8am3pm weekdays.) Before and during your trip, consult the authoritative Kauai Explorer website (www.kauaiexplorer.com) for detailed descriptions of 18 of the islands most popular beaches (with or without lifeguards), plus a daily ocean report, surf forecasts, and safety tips. Hikers will also want to read Kauai Explorers notes on 10 island trails, from easy to super-strenuous. Click on the Visiting link of Kauai County s homepage (www.kauai.gov), for links to Kauai Explorer, the Visitors Bureau, bus schedules, camping information, local park and golf facility listings, a festival and events calendar, farmers market schedules, and more.