McMillan - Burger Night

BURGER
NIGHT

KATE McMILLAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIN KUNKEL

BURGERS FOR DINNER

As every home cook knows, one surefire way to elicit smiles, cheers, and sometimes even squeals of excitement from family and friends is to proclaim, Its burger night! Its an announcement that makes everyone stop grumbling and get into a festive Saturday-night spiriteven if its only a weekday.

Its not hard to find a place to eat burgers. They populate the menus of both homey diners and high-end restaurants. Indeed, burgers belong to a special class of disheslike roast chicken and Caesar saladthat often serve as an eaterys litmus test. They can be poorly executed and cast doubt on an entire operation. Or they can be done well and be the reason to return to that restaurant again and again. The modest burger holds its own against far more complicated dishes and, when made correctly, can outshine them all.

Part of the genius of the burger is the endless variety of protein and flavor possibilities. You can make burgers out of turkey, lamb, tuna, or shrimp. If its meatless Monday, the chapter on vegetarian burgers will open up a whole range of new ideasburgers made of carrots and farro, mushroom-lentil burgers, even an artichoke burger. Come Sunday, top that burger with some bacon and an egg andvoil!youve got brunch.

Burgers are a tried-and-true weeknight staple. But their versatile nature also makes them terrific for entertaining. They freeze beautifully, so you can make a big batch in advance and pull them out as needed. In these pages, you'll find a burger to suit any mood or taste. You can heap mushrooms and onions on them, top them with a salsa of grilled fruit, or slather them with your own take on secret sauce. You can use them to showcase homemade condiments, or miniaturize them and slip them into slider buns for feeding a crowd.

Accompaniments are another wild card for the clever cook. The faithful burger not only pairs well with such traditional sides as fries and onion rings but also with healthful green salads and corn salads, with wintry slaws and summery grilled vegetables. Or move beyond your basic bun or kaiser roll and serve your burgers over rice or quinoa.

Burgers have earned their place in the kitchen pantheon. Luckily, they are simple to make, so that anyone can master them. And when you cook them at home, you can control all the ingredients and variables, which means that every burger you serve can be both delicious and a crowd-pleaser.

ANATOMY OF A BURGER

From the patty to the bun, the toppings, and the condiments, each element of a burger has an important role to play. The patty leads the charge, the toppings add flavor and texture, the condiments help marry all the ingredients together, and the bun packages everything into a satisfying meal that requires only two hands and a napkin. Follow these tips to build your perfect burger.

THE BUN

From the classic sesame bun or potato roll to more original choices like pita bread, focaccia, or baguette, your range of options is greater than you may thinkas you will see in the pages that follow. Ideally, you want an equal bun-to-burger ratio. Every bite should include some of each, and the bun should never be thicker than the burger.

THE PATTY

The soul of a burger is the patty. Buy top-quality ingredients and match the seasoning to the protein so that the flavor of the patty shines through. For example, lamb patties can stand up to ground cumin and coriander, while the subtle nature of tuna calls for fresh herbs. Form the patties loosely, making them about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick and with an indentation in the center to help them keep their shape as they cook. Make them as wide as or a little wider than the bun.

THE TOPPINGS

A fresh topping, like arugula or fennel, or pickled vegetables add pleasant contrast and crunch to a rich meaty burger. Sauted mushrooms, caramelized onions, and other cooked toppings will boost the umami factor. Experiment with different cheeses: from mild, creamy burrata to pleasantly briny feta, nearly any type of cheese is welcome atop a burger. When youre ready to try something new, stuff the toppings inside the burger.

THE CONDIMENTS

Condiments add moisture and richness to burgers, bridging the different flavors at play. Even when time is short, consider adding a flavor twist to ordinary ketchup by mixing in salsa or Chinese barbecue sauce, or doctor jarred mayonnaise by whisking in fresh lime juice or a dash of Sriracha sauce. Pickle relish is a beloved standard, but fig jam, mango chutney, and other interesting options from the preserves aisle may win you over. To get the most from your condiments, add them between the patty and the toppings, so that they melt, spread, and drip messily.

BURGER PRIMER

Whether you are cooking on a gas or charcoal grill or in a frying pan on the stove top, here are tips and tricks to create the perfect burgermeaty and satisfying, yet never dense and bricklike. To make the best burgers, use a light touch with the meat.

TOOLS FOR SUCCESS

These basic tools will help you create foolproof burgers.

GRILLING TONGS & SPATULA A long-handled, heatproof pair of tongs and a spatula will make easy work of flipping and transferring food on the grill.

GRILL BASKET This tool prevents small foods from falling through grill grates.

INSTANT-READ THERMOMETER Check the doneness of burgers with this essential kitchen tool.

BAKING SHEETS A pair of rimmed baking sheets makes it easy to transport ingredients to the grill and bring cooked food to the table.

CAST-IRON FRYING PAN OR GRIDDLE Cast iron heats slowly and evenly and holds heat well, making it ideal for cooking burgers. If you like, you can even use a frying pan or griddle on the grill.

FRYING PAN SPLATTER SCREEN When cooking burgers in a frying pan, this fine-mesh screen will keep oil from spattering on the stove top.

FOOD PROCESSOR Rev it up to make quick homemade sauces, dressings, relishes, and vegetarian patty mixtures.

DONT FEAR THE FAT For the juiciest beef burgers, use ground chuck (80% lean/20% fat) or sirloin (85% lean/15% fat). Leaner cuts and grass-fed beef will yield a drier burger. When buying chicken or turkey, opt for dark meat. Its still lower in fat than beef and will result in a much tastier burger than white meat.

FRESH IS BEST Keep in mind that you dont need to buy ground meat. You can choose any boneless cut and then ask your butcher to grind it for youor better yet, grind it yourself. Use a coarser grind to avoid a mushy texture. For a special treat, add some freshly ground short ribs, dry-aged steak, brisket, or a combination.

EASY DOES IT When forming patties, handle the meat as little as possible to prevent heavy burgers. Use 6 to 8 ounces (185 to 250 g) meat per patty, quickly and lightly shaping it into an even disk about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick and at least as wide as the bun. Work with cold hands and cold meat so that the fat doesnt melt.

MAKE AN IMPRESSION The edges of a burger cook faster than the center, which can cause the burger to puff up into a sphere. To avoid this, when shaping the patty, press your thumb into the center to make a dimple about the size of a quarter.