Contents
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
T hank you to Donna and Joe , my parents, for not succumbing to frustration and suffocating me. Allowing me to live and choosing not to kill me at various points throughout the past thirty-five years has made so many hamburgers possible. Thank you both. Thank you Bill (my mothers husband) and Lisa (my fathers wife) for supporting your respective spouses and myself. I love you guys dearly. The past six years, this book, and Kronnerburger could not have happened without my wife Ashley and our son Jim . When Ashley and I met I was basically homeless and unemployed, but I had an idea. She was intelligent, ambitious, kind, beautiful, and extremely capable. It was my need to impress her (and a desire for shelter and some money) that motivated me to turn that idea into my current, ever-evolving hamburger reality. Without her vision, hard work, and superior grip on the present I would most likely still be homeless and would not have such a handsome son. I moved to Northern California in 2001. My dear friend, culinary school classmate, and Tartine bakery employee Wendy Muster introduced me to Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt . Chad and Liz have been my landlords, employers, best critics, and most importantly, mentors for fifteen years. They are two of the most talented and generous people I have ever encountered. My life in California and all of the time I have spent in kitchens would not have happened without the two of them and their guidance, support, and influence. I love you both (and Archer too) and cannot ever fully express how grateful I am for the two of you. Steven and Mitch Rosenthal , Johnny Nunn , Paul , and Jason put up with me for nearly two years at Town Hall in San Francisco and I thank them for the BBQ shrimprelated nightmares that haunt my sleep (and for Marys advice on the importance of a correctly dressed salad). If Charles Phan had not thought me too young to be a sous chef at the Slanted Door, Justine Kelly would not have sent me to work for Sante Salvoni at the best San Francisco neighborhood restaurant ever, the Slow Club. Sante let me be his sous chef and for that I will be forever grateful. He is the original reluctant burger master. Sante encouraged me to be creative, taught me more than I can list, and showed me the importance of the kitchens relationship with the farmers, fishermen, and ranchers who supply our food. He is still the best cook I know. I love you, Chef. Well done burger, well done bun. Erin Rooney took a second chance on me when she made me the chef of the Slow Club. She effortlessly ran a place that was both incredibly warm and endlessly cool. She allowed me the freedom and gentle guidance needed to understand what makes a restaurant great. She gave me confidence for the first time in my career. Thank you Erin, for your patience and for believing in me. I owe Samantha Strand endless thanks for giving life to all of the weirdness that is Kronnerburgers visual identity. You are a brilliant wild creature. Thank you for challenging me, very rarely saying no, and being the best kind of friend a burger boy could ask for. Old Western Town for life. Paolo Lucchesi , you are a better writer, communicator, husband, and father than I could hope to become. Thank you for questioning everything and constantly pushingoccasionally dragging us in the right direction. You have made this book, my food, and myself much improved having known you. Thank you for your dedication and companionship . Eric Wolfinger has been called the LeBron James of food photography by the newspaper of record. I like to think of Eric as LeBron when we talk on the phone and he explains to me why everything is going to work out. Your professionalism, inspiring hair, and skill with a camera never cease to inspire me. Thank you for many years of friendship and stepping out of the box to make this book happen. Jenny Wapner may, on occasion, regret approaching me about writing a cookbook nearly two years ago. I imagine she often wished she had asked literally anyone else. Despite my not-exactly-linear process since that first meeting, Jenny kept us on track and patiently coaxed me into making something that hopefully more than one person reads. There is still time for her to punch me in the face. Even if she eventually punches me, I want to thank her and the entire team at Ten Speed for giving this book life. Thank you to Aaron , Emily , Emma , Serena , Mari , Lisa , and Kara . Katherine Cowles is the most diplomatic person I know. Were she not already the best agent, heading the State Department might be a fitting alternative. Thank you for your faith, wisdom, and for believing in my burger. Thank you to Sam (artist), Howie (poet), Christa , Danny , and everyone else from that cheetah-print-carpeted room on Mission Street where the burger began to form. To sweet William Billy Niles , cool dad, longtime kitchen companion, and creative inspiration both at Bar Tartine and Kronnerburger. Hardest working gentleman I know. Ethan Mitchel and Oliver Monday , original burger boys, from sour man village to sweet boy city. David Cabello , my first San Francisco friend. Scamp. Andrew Mariani creator of cool wine, Eagle. Kevin Cimino , burger cuisinist, friend to rabbits, stunt drive co-pilot, Kronner caretaker. Adam Hatch , original Kronnerburger patron, hamburger artist, real world domain host. Bradford Taylor , the most generous king of the juice, salami party enthusiast, inspired money loser. Reginaldo Sontay , the man who has made more Kronnerburgers than anyone on earth. Kevin Swanberg , the man who has eaten more Kronnerburgers than anyone on earth. Andrew Tarlow for being my NY home and constantly reminding me that art is life and life is an art. Gabriel Lowe , margarita master. Alex and Brack , my two dads. Wylie Price , originator of Snuff Milk. Original Kronnerburger crew: Ashley , Sante , Gabriel , Swanberg , Brandon , Lisa Marie , Cassie , David , Betty , Alex , Brack , Wayne , Christa , Cogan , Zeina , Cat , Bondick , Jacob , Paul , Hannah , Hasti , Anna , Fitch , Kevin. Daniel Duane is the most dedicated burger enthusiast around, testing every wild idea on his unsuspecting family. I am so happy we encountered one another and that I have your most inquisitive mind as a resource. Thank you for your endless enthusiasm and brilliant writing. Chris Fischer and Julia Sherman . Thank you for your wisdom , listening to me blather, and sharing the experiences that make you both so talented and singular. Lee and Anna , each masters of their respective realms. Harold McGee . Helen and John at Vice. Andrew , Lilli , and everyone at Bon Apptit . Cal Peternell . Kim Hastreiter . Jane White , my second mom and original Kronnerburger investor. Nicole and Justin and the things to come. Everyone that has hosted Kronnerburger over the years: Dennis , David , and Dan Lee from Namu. Danny Newberg of Joint Venture. Scott , Josh , and Morgan at Trick Dog. Jeremy , Tal , Jodi , and Josie of FourBarrel/The Mill. Vinny at Tartine. Charlie at Pizzaiolo. Rimpei at Pignon. Ari at Alma. Yoko and Kayoko at Umami Mart. Jessica and Javie r at Sqirl. Nick , Gabe , and Bobby at GGs. Marc from Burger Records. Suzanne Drexhage at Bartavelle. Patrick and Cheryln at Tank 18. David and Steven at Shibumi. Carl Sutton of Sutton Cellars. Jason at Bar Bandini. Oscar and Jake of Tacos Oscar. Erik , Todd , and Ryan of ABV. Jessica Silverman of Silverman Gallery. David , Erin , and Michael at Minnesota Street Project. Karen and Rachel at Mercy. Jon Santer and Dylan OBrien of Prizefighter. Adam Katz of Imprint. Dave Gould and Sean Rembold , the owners of Achilles Heel. Bradford Taylor of Ordinaire. Ruth and Peter at Lawton Trading Post. Creative Growth . Jane White , my second mom and original Kronnerburger investor. Rick Howard and Hal Brandel , endlessly patient supporters. Todd and Jodie. Alex and Tony . Thank you to my many meat friends who have shaped the burger over the years: Bill Niman , Cliff The Mandarin Pollard , Ryan Farr , Taylor Boetticher , Sasha Wizansky , Mac Magruder , Mark Pasternak , Doug Stonebreaker , Loren Poncia , and Claire Herminjard.