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Clarence R. Robbins - Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair

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Clarence R. Robbins Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair
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Human hair is the subject of a remarkably wide range of scientific investigations. Its chemical and physical properties are of importance to the cosmetics industry, forensic scientists and to biomedical researchers. The fifth edition of this book confirms its position as the definitive monograph on the subject. Previous editions were recognized as concise and thorough (Journal of the American Chemical Society), an invaluable resource (Canadian Forensic Science Society Journal), and highly recommended (Textile Research Journal). Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair is a teaching guide and reference volume for cosmetic chemists and other scientists in the hair products industry, academic researchers studying hair and hair growth, textile scientists and forensic specialists.
Features of the Fifth Edition:
Recent advances in the classification and characterization of the different proteins and genes in IF and keratin associated proteins in human hair are described.
The mechanism and incidence of hair growth and loss and hair density vs. age of males & females are described for Asians, Caucasians and Africans in different scalp regions.
Details of hair surface lipids and cuticle membranes provide a better understanding of the surface and organization of the CMC and its involvement in stress strain is presented.
Recent evidence demonstrates a more bilateral structure in curly hair and a more concentric arrangement of different cortical proteins in straighter hair.
SNPs involved in hair form (curl and coarseness) and pigmentation and genes in alopecia and hair abnormalities are described.
The latest biosynthetic scheme for hair pigments and structures for these and the different response of red versus brown-black pigments to photodegradation is described.
A new method for curvature on 2,400 persons from different countries and groups is used to assign curvature throughout this book.
Additional data for age and effects on diameter, ellipticity, elastic modulus, break stress and other parameters are presented with much larger data sets featuring statistical analyses.
Hair conditioning, strength, breakage, split ends, flyaway, shine, combing ease, body, style retention, manageability and feel parameters are defined and described.
A new section of different life stages by age groups considering collective and individual changes in hair fiber properties with age and how these affect assembly properties.

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Clarence R. Robbins Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair 5th ed. 2012 10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0_1 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2012
1. Morphological, Macromolecular Structure and Hair Growth
Clarence R. Robbins 1
(1)
Clarence Robbins Technical Consulting, 12425 Lake Ridge Circle, Clermont, FL 34711, USA
Clarence R. Robbins
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Abstract
At or near its surface, hair fibers contain a thick protective cover consisting of six to eight layers of flat overlapping scale-like structures called cuticle or scales which consists of high sulfur KAPs, keratin proteins and structural lipids. The cuticle layers surround the cortex, but the cortex contains the major part of the fiber mass. The cortex consists of spindle-shaped cells that are aligned parallel with the fiber axis. Cortical cells consist of both Type I and Type II keratins (IF proteins) and KAP proteins. Coarser hairs often contain one or more loosely packed porous regions called the medulla, located near the center of the fiber. The cell membrane complex, the glue that binds or holds all of the cells together, is a highly laminar structure consisting of both structural lipid and protein structures. Hair fibers grow in cycles consisting of three distinct stages called anagen (growth), catagen (transition) and telogen (rest). Each stage is controlled by molecular signals/regulators acting first on stem cells and then on the newly formed cells in the bulb and subsequently higher up in differentiation in the growing fiber. The effects and incidence of hair growth and hair loss (normal and diseased) for both males and females are described in detail. Molecular structures controlling hair fiber curvature (whether a fiber is straight or curly) and the effects of the different structural units of the fiber on stressstrain and swelling behavior are described in detail.
1.1 Introduction
Since writing the fourth edition, several significant findings have occurred regarding the morphology, the growth and development, and the structure of human scalp hair fibers. Our knowledge of hair growth, development and formation both at the cellular and the molecular levels has continued to increase at a rapid rate and our understanding of the origin of fiber curvature has increased considerably. For example, recent evidence demonstrates more of a bilateral type structure in human hair fibers as curvature increases providing different types of cortical structures on the inside of a curl vs. the outside, analogous to wool fiber. Additional details of the surface structure, that is the epicuticle and the cuticle cell membranes have been uncovered providing a better understanding of the surface of hair fibers and the organization and makeup of the three cell membrane complexes that binds all of the hair cells together. Significant findings regarding the lipid composition of hair, its importance to barrier functions, to the isoelectric point and its potential for stress strain involvement have been added.
Important additions to the sections on male and female pattern alopecia have been made including incidence vs. age and affected regions of the scalp. Additional information on hair diameter and hair density (hairs/cm2) changes with age, hair density in different regions of the scalp and variation by geo-racial group (linking geographic origin and its effects on genetics with race). The effects of pregnancy on scalp hair are also described in greater detail than in prior editions.
Human hair is a keratin-containing appendage that grows from large cavities or sacs called follicles. Hair follicles extend from the surface of the skin through the stratum corneum and the epidermis into the dermis, see Fig..
Fig 11 A section of human skin illustrating a hair fiber in its follicle as - photo 1
Fig. 1.1
A section of human skin illustrating a hair fiber in its follicle as it emerges through the skin and how it is nourished
Fig 12 Schematic illustrating the three stages of growth of human hair fibers - photo 2
Fig. 1.2
Schematic illustrating the three stages of growth of human hair fibers
Morphologically, a fully formed hair fiber contains three and sometimes four different units or structures. At or near its surface, hair contains a thick protective covering consisting of one or more layers of flat overlapping scale-like structures called cuticle or scales see Fig.. The cuticle layers surround the cortex, but the cortex contains the major part of the fiber mass. The cortex consists of spindle-shaped cells that are aligned parallel with the fiber axis. Cortical cells contain many of the fibrous proteins of hair. Coarser hairs often contain one or more loosely packed porous regions called the medulla, located near the center of the fiber. The fourth important unit of structure is the cell membrane complex the glue that binds or holds all of the cells together.
Fig 13 Schematic diagram of a cross section of a human hair fiber These - photo 3
Fig. 1.3
Schematic diagram of a cross section of a human hair fiber
These structures with the exception of the medulla are in all animal hairs, the medulla only in coarser hairs. Figure contains scanning electron micrographs (SEMs) of four mammalian species taken at different magnifications. These micrographs demonstrate the cuticle structure of a cat whisker, a wool fiber, a human hair, and a horsetail hair. The cross-sections of the horsetail hair reveal the cortex and the multiple porous channels or regions of the medulla characteristic of coarse hairs, but generally absent from fine animal hairs such as fine wool fiber.
Fig 14 Hair fibers from different mammalian species Upper left is an SEM of - photo 4
Fig. 1.4
Hair fibers from different mammalian species. Upper left is an SEM of a cat whisker (1510 X). Upper right is an SEM of a human hair fiber (1000 X). Lower left is an SEM of a wool fiber (2000 X). Lower right is an SEM of sections of horse tail fiber (400 X)
Although this book is concerned with hair fibers in general, the primary focus is on human scalp hair and this chapter is concerned mainly with the morphology, the macromolecular structure and the growth of this unique natural fiber.
1.2 General Structure and Growth
The schematic diagram of Fig. illustrates other important active layers of the growing fiber in the follicle.
Fig 15 Pilosebaceous unit with a hair fiber in its follicle and the zones of - photo 5
Fig. 1.5
Pilosebaceous unit with a hair fiber in its follicle and the zones of protein and cell synthesis, differentiation, keratinization and the region of the permanent hair fiber as the fiber emerges through the scalp
Fig 16 Schematic of an active hair bulb with a hair fiber illustrating the - photo 6
Fig. 1.6
Schematic of an active hair bulb with a hair fiber illustrating the important layers with regard to growth
The human hair fiber beneath the skin can be divided into several distinct zones along its axis (Fig. ]. The next zone that begins below the skin line and eventually emerges through the skin surface is the region of the permanent hair fiber. The permanent hair fiber consists of fully formed dehydrated cornified cuticle, cortical and sometimes medullary cells, but always the cell membrane complex which acts like a natural adhesive, binding the hair cells together.
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