Dickey - Hair rules!: the Ultimate Hair-Care Guide for Women with Kinky, Curly, or Wavy Hair

Table of Contents

This book is dedicated to my grandparents

Mac and Daisy Dickey

Foreword

Tomiko Fraser

My hair. My hair has been a topic of conversation for as long as I can remember. It started with my entry into this world and the inevitable question on all black folks minds when a black girl is born: Does she have good hair? Sitting in front of my mothers stove as a young girl while she straightened my hair (and Id better not move or else Id get the burn of my life). Going on long bus trips as a teenager to a faraway beauty salonI still dont know why we had to travel so farto have my hair relaxed. I would leave the salon smelling of hair products and feeling the breeze finally reach my freshly relaxed scalp. (Dont act like you dont know what Im talking about.) My hair has always been, first and foremost, an undertaking.

Fast-forward to my new career as a model. I had arrived! I just knew that I would be in good hands because the people whom I worked with were professionals. Right? I quickly learned that just because someone had a portfolio full of famous women whose hair theyd got their hands on didnt mean that all was safe and sound. If I began to tell you all of the horror stories about how my hair was fried, twisted, pulled, colored, weaved, wigged, and so on, your head would spin. Needless to say, it wasnt always cute. I longed for the day when I could look in the mirror and be happy with what had been done to my poor little head. I even got to the point where I would bring all my own tools to ensure a satisfactory job. I carried wigs, hairpieces, products, combs, brushes, curling irons, straightening combs... the list goes on. I have made many a hairstylist green with envy because of my collection of materials. (They didnt understand that a girls gotta do what a girls gotta do.)

So, it should come as no surprise to you that my hair was a constant source of stress for me. I just didnt believe that the so-called professionals or I would ever get it right. That constant worrying finally led to what is affectionately called a stress spot on the top of my head. (Basically, ladies, I had a bald spot.) I attribute it to a combination of worry and plain old wear and tear. My poor little head had had enough. It wasnt playing by my rules anymore. It had developed a mind of its own. There was nothing I could do. I tried letting my natural hair grow in, only to have it break off again once I relaxed it. I wore a weave for a few years, hoping that the hair would regrow, to no avail. I even sported an old mans comb-over for a short period of time. It was sad. Really sad. (Its okay to laugh because I sure do. Now.)

Enter Mr. Dickey. Dickey was, throughout all my hair drama, the sole voice of reason. Girl, you know you need to wear your hair natural was his mantra. Hed been a world-renowned hairstylist for many years, so I guess he felt like he knew something. But he was dealing with my hair. I knew what worked for me. Right? How was he going to tell someone in my position, with my level of visibility, to wear a natural? Didnt he know that I had worked long and hard to establish my look? When clients asked for Tomiko, they knew they were getting the black girl next door. I couldnt jeopardize that with a big ole fro! What was he thinking? The nerve!

So, he did as I asked and relaxed, straightened, or weaved my hair. Well, wouldnt you know it? My stress spot grew even larger. And this time with a vengeance! I remember sitting on the bathroom floor of a bed-and-breakfast, where I was spending the weekend a few years ago, with my hair coming out in my hands!! Thats it! Time out! This had gotten ridiculous!

Guess where I was that Monday morning? In Dickeys chair getting all of my relaxed hair cut off. Off, I said. I cried like a baby. And he wasnt all gentle and sweet. He cut my hair off like it had just slapped him in the face. He was finally getting his way. I couldnt bear to look in the mirror. Who was this person? And why was she bald-headed? I didnt want to look at her anymore. So, I quickly left the salon with my head hanging low.

The story doesnt end there, folks. For the record, I am the zodiac sign that is often accused of being quite stubborn. So, as soon as my hair grew back, I found a different hairstylist to relax it for me. Dickey would not be right if I had my way. Lets just jump ahead hereBALD-HEADED MODEL SEEN RUNNING AND SCREAMING DOWN FIFTH AVENUE WITH HANDS FULL OF HER OWN HAIR! Done. Over. The fat lady had sung. I knew what I needed to do.

After much consulting with friends, family, agents, passersby on the street, etc., I decided it was time to let my hair do what it wanted to do: live in its natural state. (Isnt that all we really want anyway?) The final test came when my agents had to contact the execs at Maybelline (with whom I had a cosmetics campaignthe first African-American woman to do so with the cosmetics giant, I might add). I had appeased them for several years with various numbers of weaves. They wanted long, cascading curls, they got it. They wanted bone-straight, Asian-looking hair, they got it. Hell, if they wanted me to sport a blond wig while dancing the hokeypokey, I would have given them that, too. But, surprisingly, they were cool with my decision to wear my hair natural. They wanted me to be happy. A happy model sells lots and lots of makeup.

So here I am today, two years later, with a headful of healthy, happy, natural hair. I am thrilled! Not only am I happy, but my clients, friends, family, agents, and, most important, Dickey are happy. It seems that not only was the world ready for (gasp!) a black model with natural hair, but I was ready for them.

Dickey is offering a much-needed reminder with Hair Rules! Work with what you haveits fabulous! I am so pleased that I finally listened to him and did what needed to be done years ago. Any woman with nonconventional (or the less politically correct terms such as nappy, kinky, coarse, etc.) hair can relate to my story. Yes, the facts may not be identical, but the drama is all the same. Dickey has answers. He doesnt just tell you what you want to hear, he gives it to you straight. No chaser. Just beautiful results. Listen to him, ladies. He knows of what he speaks.

Thank you, Dickey. For always being in my hair corner. Keep doing your thing. You are a blessing to all of the nappy-haired girls of the world. I love you.

Introduction

Louis Licari

When Dickey asked me to write the introduction to Hair Rules! I realized how much need there was for this book. Kinky and curly hair are different from straight hair. They are often drier, and they require different styling techniques and styling products, and a gentler hand when you are coloring them. They also require more expertise than straight hair does to care for and style. Nonstraight hair often needs multiple chemical services: It is not unusual for a woman with this type of hair to relax her hair and then want to try hair color. This requires the know-how of when and how these different services should be done.