Parla - Food of the italian south: recipes for classic, disappearing, and lost dishes

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Thanks to my mom, Joj, and my dad, Papa Parla, who accompanied me on more than a few South Italy journeys. Thank you to Hans Fama, who fed and nurtured me during the editing process. The whole Clarkson Potter and Crown Publishing team has given me the most wonderful support. Grazie Maya Mavjee, Aaron Wehner, Doris Cooper, Kate Tyler, Carly Gorga, Stephanie Davis, Jana Branson, Stephanie Huntwork, Ian Dingman, Terry Deal, Linnea Knollmueller, and Gabrielle Van Tassel. To my editor, Amanda Englander, fellow Jersey native and pizza lover, I am so grateful for the constant encouragement, friendship, and texts featuring a resplendent basset hound.

Ed Anderson, my fearless photographer and travel companion, I am so glad we survived our road trip (no thanks to my driving) and thank you for introducing me to the supremely kind and talented George Dolese, whose styling and sourcing skills brought the recipes of South Italy to life.

John Regefalk, my dear friend and tireless dough developer, I am so grateful for your friendship and dedication. Your doughs are amazing. Move back to Rome, per favore ? Props to Noel Brohner for baking off a beautiful Matera bread. Dajjjeee Cesare Agostini, maestro delle friselle.

Grazie to my pals Chris Behr and Sara Levi at the Rome Sustainable Food Project for their insight, recipe development, and supportnot to mention access to their cookbook library.

My friend and recipe tester Tatiana Perea is a force of nature. Gracias, amiga. Thanks also to Dave Potes for his feedback and testing.

This book was a team effort and would not have been possible without the generosity of countless food and beverage producers who selflessly opened their kitchens, bakeries, and homes and donated their time, resources, and recipes. Infinite thanks and respect go out: Angela, Vincenzo, and Roberto at E Curti; Angelica, Annarita, and Rinaldo at Regio Tratturo; Carmela Bruno and Ali Coccaro at La Piazzetta; Armando Romito and Maestri del Sannio; Lucia Parente; Giuditta Gianfrancesco; la famiglia Masella; Molino Mirra; Franco Pepe; la famiglia Tortora; Le Campestre; La Sbecciatrice; Museo Etnico Arbresh Civita; Alberto Bloise; La Locanda di Alia; La Grotta di Zi Concetta; Giuseppe and Zio Gaetano Di Martino; Caseificio Vannulo; Angelo and Nicola Romano; Franca Cozzolino; Giuseppe Gatto and Lucrezia Galia; la famiglia Margapoti; Enzo Bruno and the Cooperativa Padre Pio; Simona, Mino, and Antonio Rosati and Elisabetta Scaraglio; Angelo and Vito Dicessa, Giuseppe and Giuseppe Di Ges; Angela, Antonella, and Peppe De Marco; Domenico Tortorella, Carlo Abate, Matteo, Pasquale, and Lorenzo; Donatella Marino and Alici di Menaica; Giulio Giordano and Nettuno; i ragazzi di Quanto Basta.

KATIE PARLA, a New Jersey native, is a Rome-based food and beverage journalist, culinary guide, and educator. She is the author of KatieParla.com, the Saveur Awardwinning food and travel site, the ebook Eating & Drinking in Rome, more than twenty travel guides, and coauthor of Tasting Rome (2016), winner of the IACP Award for best international cookbook. Her travel writing, recipes, and food criticism appear in the New York Times, Food & Wine, Saveur, Australian Gourmet Traveller, the Guardian, AFAR, Cond Nast Traveler, Punch, Eater, and more. Follow her on Instagram and Twitter @katieparla.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Costantino, Rosetta with Janet Fletcher. My Calabria: Rustic Family Cooking from Italys Undiscovered South . New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 2010.

Levi, Carlo. Christ Stopped at Eboli . New York: FSG Classics, 2006.

Mallo, Beppe. Calabria e Lucania in Bocca. Palermo: Il Vespro, 1979.

Murphy, Trevor. Pliny the Elders Natural History: The Empire in the Encyclopedia . Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press, 2004.

Riley, Gillian. The Oxford Companion to Italian Food . Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press, 2009.

Sada, Luigi. Puglie in Bocca. Palermo: Il Vespro, 1979.

Zanini De Vita, Oretta. Encyclopedia of Pasta . Translated by Mauren Fant. Oakland, CA: University of California Press, 2009.

RESOURCES

Food

Anson Mills

803-467-4122

ansonmills.com

For organic heirloom wheat flours.

Bluebird Grain Farms

509-996-3526

bluebirdgrainfarms.com

For quality grains milled to order.

BuonItalia

212-633-9090

buonitalia.com

For flours, pasta, salted anchovies, cheese, guanciale, and assorted Italian specialties.

Caputo Brothers Creamery

717-739-1091

caputobrotherscreamery.com

For mozzarella, ricotta, provolone, and ricotta salata made in southwestern Pennsylvania. They also sell cultured mozzarella curds in case you want to try making your own.

Di Bruno Brothers

215-531-5666

dibruno.com

For Pecorino Romano, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Gorgonzola, sheeps-milk ricotta, mozzarella, and other Italian cheese, as well as guanciale .

Formaggio Kitchen

888-212-3224

formaggiokitchen.com

For guanciale, cheeses, pastas, olive oils, and other specialty products.

Gioia Cheese Co.

626-444-6015

gioiacheeseco.com

This Southern Californiabased family-owned company produces mozzarella, ricotta, and burrata .

Gustiamo

718-860-2949

gustiamo.com

This online retailer stocks Italys finest colatura, salted anchovies, tomato sauces, and more.

King Arthur Flour

800-827-6836

kingarthurflour.com

For quality flours.

La Quercia

515-981-1625

laquercia.us

For cured meats and salami like nduja .

Local Harvest

831-515-5602

localharvest.org

A network of local farms for sourcing fresh pork jowl for guanciale, among other things.

Market Hall Foods

510-250-6006

markethallfoods.com

For fennel pollen, salted anchovies, colatura, durum wheat pasta, and a wide range of Italian specialty products.

Murrays Cheese

888-692-4339

murrayscheese.com

For guanciale, nduja, cheeses, and Italian specialty products of all kinds.

Nduja Artisans

312-550-6991

ndujaartisans.com

The premier domestic producer of spicy Calabrian salumi .

Rancho Gordo

707-259-1935

ranchogordo.com

For borlotti (cranberry beans).

Salumeria Biellese

salumeriabiellese.com

For guanciale and nduja .

Zingermans

888-636-8162

zingermans.com

For guanciale, lardo, nduja, cheeses, peperoni cruschi, and a huge variety of Italian specialty products.

Utensils

JB Prince

212-683-3553

jbprince.com

Baking sheets, terrine molds, baking utensils, and kitchen equipment.

OXO

oxo.com

800-545-4411

Good, sturdy cooking and baking utensils.

Sur La Table

800-243-0852

surlatable.com

High-end cookwear, sturdy pots, and pizza stones.

Williams-Sonoma

877-812-6235

williams-sonoma.com

For cookware, bakeware, baking stones, cocktail tools, ice cream makers, ice cube trays, and assorted baking tools.

CONVERSIONS

Weight

Some sample weights