THE
GOAPORTUGUESA
COOKBOOK
Published by Harsha Bhatkal for Popular Prakashan Pvt. Ltd. 301, Mahalaxmi Chambers 22, Bhulabhai Desai Road Mumbai 400 026 2009 Deepa Awchat First published: 2009 First reprint December 2009 Revised Edition 2018 WORLD RIGHTS RESERVED. The contents - all recipes, photographs and drawings are original and copyrighted. No portion of this book shall be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the written permission of the author and the publisher. Plot No. 67 A-68, Ecotech, Ext. 67 A-68, Ecotech, Ext.
I Kasna, Greater Noida-201306 (U.P)
Deepa Suhas Awchat
INTRODUCTION
s we celebrate the thirtieth birthday of Goa Portuguesa with the publishing of The Goa Portuguesa Cookbook, I am filled with only the most happy memories of the struggles and challenges that have led to the success of this our first restaurant baby. Goa Portuguesa came into being on 3, December 1988, an auspicious day for all Goans, being the feast of St Francis Xavier, patron saint of Goa. Suhas, my husband, has been the inspiration both behind the restaurant and this book. He decided to take on the challenge of opening a true-blue Goan restaurant in Mumbai, and I readily agreed to look after the kitchen and the menu planning. We had long felt that there were several myths about Goan food that needed to be dispelled: the first that all Goans eat is fish and pork, and that vegetables have no place on a Goan menu. The second is that all Goan food is too spicy and too vinegary.
I feel we have succeeded in changing those misconceptions with the variety of food served in the restaurant, and now with the recipes in this book. he Portuguese had a lasting influence on Goan Catholic cuisine, and delicacies like Vindalho, Cafreal, Balchao and Sorpotel have achieved cult status. On the other hand, the many vegetarian dishes of Goan Hindu cuisine, which has much in common with that of the Konkan region of Maharashtra, are not easily available outside Hindu homes. At Goa Portuguesa we have brought those dishes out of traditional Hindu Goan kitchens and showcased them on our menu, much to the delight of our many vegetarian patrons. The ortuguese left their mark not only on Goan cuisine, but on the Indian culinary map, as they brought with them gastronomic treasures from their colonies elsewherechillies, vinegar, tomatoes, potatoes, pineapples, the cashew fruit and new varieties of mangoes, to name a few. They also brought a host of kitchen techniques like baking of bread and distilling of alcohol which has won for Goa the dubious distinction of being the land of paowallahs, and lovers of a very spirited life! P eople have often asked us if the food that we serve is authentic, and I take great pride in saying that it is authentic to Goa Portuguesa! The recipes in this book are of dishes which are served in Goa Portuguesa, modified and standardised to suit todays palate.
As on the restaurant menu, there is a variety of vegetarian dishes including Bhaji, Shaak, Usal, Tondak, Ross (coconut-based dishes), Hoomans (curries), Karams (salads) and the queen of Goan vegetable dishesKhatkhatem. Traditional Portuguese dishes have been adapted to include popular Indian ingredients like paneerPaneer Rissois are a favourite with our customers! There are also a number of great tasting seafood, chicken and pork dishesthe world famous Vindalho, typical Goan Fish Curry, our ever popular Prawn Sacramento and the show-stopping Stuffed Lobster. There are sweets as well, including sinful multi-layered Bebinca, luscious Kele Halwa and delicate coconut pancakes. And how can Goa be Goa without Fenithe potent cashew or palm liqueur! So do try out the Feni Cocktails. But if alcohol is not your thing, there is a delightful Tender Coconut Punch and a refreshing Solkadi to quench your thirst. As you will see, I have selected the most popular and representative dishes of both our restaurant and Goan cuisine, so you can experience the taste of Goa in your home.
All you need to do is follow the simple steps I have described, and together with the ingredients called for, (measured carefully according to the table on page 127) add a huge pinch of love, care and confidence! Great food, zesty music and warm hospitality. Goa Portuguesa encapsulates what is essentially a Goan experiencesumptuous food, live music and personalised service. I hope that with this book you will be able to recreate the genuine flavour of Goa and transport yourself to Goas soft, sandy beaches pounded by strong waves, where fisher folk disentangle the catch from their nets at dawn; to miles and miles of paddy fields and a white chapel at the end of a winding road; to tavernas where the laughter is as loud as the music and the feni flows freely; to where football is a passion and carnival is a way of life and not just an annual parade; to where above all, a sossegado disposition and a belly-full of curry and rice are essential to combat the vagaries of life. I cannot end without paying a special tribute to some very important people in my life. y mother Sushila Mahambre taught me everything I know about cooking typical Hindu Goan food. Her versatility and ability to turn the simplest ingredients into a dish fit for a king have helped me perfect my own culinary skills.
My sister Anuradha Wagh has helped in more ways than she will ever know. She is my first call in a crisis. The passing of my late brothers Suresh and Ashok Mahambre has left a void in my life that will be hard to fill. They always inspired me with their positive attitude and determination to face lifes challenges with courage and fortitude. Suhas parents, Laxman and Meera Awchat, and his brother Rajesh, have always been a source of inspiration and encouragement, especially while writing this book. And how can I forget the undying loyalty and dedication of the staff of Goa Portuguesa and our other restaurants.
Their service with a smile is what keeps the restaurants going. Our patrons keep us on our toes, expecting nothing but the best. We gratefully accept their suggestions and praise and pledge to continue to give them our best. My sincere thanks also to Harsha Bhatkal, my friend and publisher, who has been urging me for years to compile a book of Goan recipes. Last, but by no means the least, I owe my undying gratitude to my larger-than-life husband, Suhas - the brains and the driving force behind Goa Portuguesa and our two other restaurants, Dakshin Culture Curry and Diva Maharashtracha. Together, we are making our dreams come true, and in doing so, have given our sons Sudeep and Acash roots, wings and hefty n healthy portions of deliciously authentic Goan food to feast on! To you, the reader, and all my relatives, good friends (many of whom have urged, inspired and often nagged me to share my secret recipeshere they are!), benefactors, friends in the media and guests, I say, Dev Borrem Karo or God Bless You!