Legato Steve - The dinnertime survival cookbook : delicious, inspiring meals for busy families

I AM THE FIRST TO ADMIT THAT MANY OF THE PREPARED SOUPS AVAILABLE THESE DAYS ARE WONDERFUL. After all, at Aux Dlices we always offer a soup or two for takeout, and our customers are nothing but enthusiastic and grateful. As delicious as these areand I have been known to take them home for a family supper on many occasionsthere is something about making soup from scratch that is just plain satisfying. When I make my own, I usually end up centering the whole meal around the soup, adding perhaps a green salad and a loaf of bread, as well as a glass of wine for an end-of-day mellow.

I realize that I have an advantage when I make soup because I have access to homemade stock at Aux Dlices. Making your own is easy but admittedly its time-consuming, requiring that you be at home while it simmers for hours and then leaving you with a pot full of spent, boiled bones and gristle. Luckily, there are some excellent brands of stock on the market, such as Swanson Certified Organic Chicken Broth and Imagine Organic Free Range Chicken Broth, which make more than passable soups. Soups made without cream freeze beautifullyanother bonus as its easy to double a recipe and freeze the extra. As much as I love a good, hearty soup, I am equally partial to smooth, satiny ones. To achieve this lovely texture all you need is a good blenderand I prefer a blender to a food processor.

Following the soups on these pages are salads, which are accompanied by some very easy vinaigrettes. I object to being too exacting when it comes to salads, as a little more lettuce, a little less tomato, or a different kind of cheese can make a salad your own. Instead, I tempt you with the unexpected, such as the robust raw kale salad and the more fragile watermelon salad. I absolutely love the recipe that relies on shaved Brussels sprouts and once you try it, I hope you agree with me. Just about anything goes when it comes to salad.

For a lovely, elegant chilled soup, try this one: Its just right as a first course or a light summer lunch. The sweet mango and the fire-hot jalapeo cut the richness of the avocado for a perfect balance of flavors and a beautiful pale green hue. I like to use Greek yogurt, but any plain yogurt works well. This is a gorgeously smooth soup.

S erves 4 to 6

2 ripe avocados

2 English cucumbers, sliced

1 mango, peeled, pitted, and flesh removed

1 cup plain Greek yogurt

cup chopped cilantro

Juice and grated zest of 2 limes

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint leaves

1 teaspoon finely diced jalapeo pepper

Freshly ground black pepper

Cut the avocados in half lengthwise and remove the pits. Scoop the avocado flesh into a large bowl.

Add the cucumbers, mango, yogurt, cilantro, lime juice, lime zest, salt, mint, and jalapeo. Add 1 cups of water and stir well.

Transfer the soup to a blender. You will have to do this in two batches. Pure until smooth and return to the bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or until very cold. The soup will keep for up to 3 days.

Season to taste with pepper and more salt and lime juice, if needed. Garnish with cilantro or mint leaves.

Everyone wonders what to do with summers bumper crop of zucchini. The green squash overflows baskets at farmers markets and grows like crazy in backyard gardens. This curried soup is one of the best ways I have come up with to use the somewhat mild-tasting squash. And when we offer it at Aux Dlices, its always a top seller.

S erves 8

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 medium-size carrots, peeled and thinly sliced

3 ribs celery, thinly sliced

1 small onion, peeled and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon curry powder

3 zucchini, trimmed and cut into large dice (about 3 pounds)

6 cups chicken or vegetable stock

cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a large soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat and when it begins to bubble, add the carrots, celery, onion, and curry powder. Cook, stirring, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the vegetables soften.

Add the zucchini and stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes or until the zucchini is tender. Stir in the cream, let the soup return to a boil, and then remove it from the heat.

Transfer the soup, in batches, to a blender and process until smooth. Return the pured soup to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Reheat, if necessary, and serve hot.

For a long time, I never understood the attraction of cheese soups. I loved cheese and I liked soup but didnt think the two needed to meet. That is, until I started experimenting. Cheese adds great flavor to many soups, and particularly this one with an earthiness provided by the grilled corn.