Mando Rayo - Austin breakfast tacos : the story of the most important taco of the day

Published by American Palate

A Division of The History Press

Charleston, SC 29403

www.historypress.net

Copyright 2013 by Mando Rayo and Jarod Neece

All rights reserved

Page 1: Illustration by Pepe Yz, PepeYz.com.

Title page: Migas breakfast taco from Joes Bakery. Photo by Joel Salcido.

Opposite, top: Mando Rayo y familia. Quetzal, Argentina Granada, Ixchel Granada de Rayo and Diego and Mando Rayo. Photo by Joel Salcido.

Opposite, bottom: Jarod Neece y familia. Francesca, Andrea Yz, Jarod and Tessa Neece. Photo by Dennis Burnett.

First published 2013

e-book edition 2013

Manufactured in the United States

ISBN 978.1.62584.505.4

Library of Congress CIP data applied for.

print edition ISBN 978.1.62619.049.8

Notice: The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. It is offered without guarantee on the part of the authors or The History Press. The authors and The History Press disclaim all liability in connection with the use of this book.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever without prior written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

Dedicated to Austin, Texas, and our families.

I would like to dedicate the tacos and this book to mi familia for their support, amor y cario. Los quiero un monton!

Ixchel Granada de Rayo

Quetzal Trinidad Rayo

Diego Armando Tenoch Rayo

Mando Rayo

I dedicate this book to my amazing wife, Andrea, and our two beautiful daughters, Tessa and Francesca. Yall make all the taco meals taste better when we eat them together!

Jarod Neece

CONTENTS

TACOS. NEVER. DIE.

MIL GRACIAS!

Thanks to everyone who helped us with the book!

Aaron Franklin

Adam Holzband and Jodi Bart Holzband

Addie Broyles

Alex Rayo

Alfredo Santos

Alton Jenkins

Amy Averett

Andrea Yz

Argentina Granada

Aurelio Torres

Bianka Becerra

Brittany Platt

Carmen Valera

Catherine Robb

Cathy Lippincott

Celeste and Adrian Quesada

Christen Thompson

Claudette Godfrey

Clovis Cisneros

Cody Symington

Cristina Balli

Daniel Macias

David Alan and Joe Eifler

David Ansel

Dennis Burnett

Diana Cisneros

Diane Valera

Dorsey Barger and Susan Hausmann

Elaine and Rich Garza

Elizabeth Englehart

Eric and Diana Orta

Eric Wilkerson

Fidel Martinez

George Milton

Glenn Rosales

Gloria Espitia

Gordon Murphy

Hoover Alexander

Ixchel Granada de Rayo

Jake Agger

Javier and Stacey Rayo

Jessika Gomez-Duarte

Jesus Becerra

Dr. Jesus Frank de la Teja

Joel Salcido

John Conley

Jorge Garcia

Jose de Loera

Jose Luis Perez

Jose Velasquez

Juan Castillo Jr.

Juan Castillo Sr.

Juan P. Meza

Justin Bankston

Kathy Vale

Laura Williamson

Lauren Eichhorn

Lisa Albracht

Llyas Salahud-Din

Lonnie Limon and Crystal Cantu

Lorena Vargas

Manuel Lopez Galvan

Marcel Rodriguez

Margarita Mendez

Maria Corbalan

Maria Vargas

Maritza Vasquez

Mary Jenkins

Michael Barnes

Mike Martinez

Mike Rypka

Mindy Stoddard

Myrna Y. Meza

Nestor Mendez

Nikki Ibarra

Nilda de la Llata

Omar L. Gallaga

Pauline Avila

Paul Qui and Deana Saukam

Pepe Yz

Paulina Artieda

Rafael Picco

Raquel Vargas

Ray Gonzalez

Regina Estrada

Reyna Vasquez

Roberto Espinosa

Roberto Vasquez

Robert Valera

Rose Ann Maciel

Sam Armstrong

Sarah Hickman

Sergio Valera

Tim and Karrie League

Virgil Ojeda Limon and Diana Estrada Limon

AND NOW A BREAKFAST TACO SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT

Were no writers; were no historians; were no chefs. Were just a couple of guys who love breakfast tacos. Join us as we discover the breakfast taco, the taqueros (aka taco makers) and the people of Austin who love them so much. Tacos are messy, and so is this book, so dont expect fancy recipes or elaborate ways to cook up your breakfast tacos. Our photog style and our writing are just like breakfast tacos: down-and-dirty and messy! Tacos are the peoples food, yo! Well have lots of recipessome full, some al gusto. We hope this book will make you hungry and want to go eat breakfast tacos, like immediately!

PART I

AUSTIN, TEXAS

THE BREAKFAST TACO CAPITAL OF THE WORLD

AUSTINS LOVE OF THE BREAKFAST TACO

Austin: the Breakfast Taco Capital of the World? Hell yeah it is! And why not? The people of Austin love their breakfast tacos; they love them in the morning, for lunch, when theyre hungover, at midnight, on the streets and in abuelitas cocina! Wherever you go in Austin, youll find taqueros creating a plethora of the breakfast creations that are part of the culture of Austin. Weve got so many people making breakfast tacos that people were going crazy when they heard of the bacon shortage of 2012. Not only do we have traditional taqueros making them, but we also have pit masters, restaurateurs and all kinds of taco-making cooks hookin up breakfast tacos for the people of Austin. Last time I checked, we had over 370 places in Austin that serve breakfast tacos. Shoot, as Im writing and enjoying a cafecito at Bennu Coffee, I might just get one right now. Yeah, thats also a big thing in Austin. Coffee shop tacos.

Why do we love the breakfast taco? I think its a mix of things. We love the simplicity of the breakfast taco, the options, the comfort it gives us in our bellies and, of course, los huevos. Gotta have eggs for breakfast, right? But not necessarily in the morning. You can have breakfast tacos at almost any time of the day, and for a lot of Austinites, after a long night working, at a show or just going out, they really hit the spot, whether you wake up at 8:00 a.m., 2:00 p.m. or even 6:00 p.m.

LA CULTURA DE AUSTIN

When in Austin, do as Austinites do. Eat barbecue, listen to live music, hang out in the East Austin bar scene (yeah, just ask los hipsters) and eat lots of breakfast tacos. La cultura de Austin is to do just that, and there are many reasons why Austinites are avid taco fans. Yes, were a university town; we do have our share of college tacos, and students eat them up because theyre cheap, quick and easy to handle. The affordability factor is a big one. You can still get breakfast tacos for one to two dollars in the east side, and that meal can get you through lunchtime. Were also an open peopleor, as we say, we like to Keep Austin Weird. (Yes, Im going there because its true!) I like to think that Austin has an openness to it. Were somewhat of a metropolitan city (at least were getting there), and most cities like Austin are more open to new experiences, new cultures and new people. We arent afraid of trying new things. Thats pretty good for Texas, right? Our willingness to try new things is one of the reasons we love the breakfast taco. Being close to the border helps, too. Whether its taco trailers or brick-and-mortar restaurants, weve experienced the influence of Mexican and Latino immigrants, Tejanos, Mexican-Americans and Chicanos in the city. And what do we do? We accept their (and my) taco ways with open arms! And for that, I thank you, Austin.