Kate Winslow - Onions etcetera: the essential allium cookbook: more than 150 recipes for leeks, scallions, garlic, shallots, ramps, chives and every sort of onion

The Essential Allium Cookbook

More than 150 recipes for leeks, scallions, garlic, shallots, ramps, chives and every sort of onion

KATE WINSLOW AND GUY AMBROSINO

Copyright 2017 by Kate Winslow and Guy Ambrosino

Published in 2017 by Burgess Lea Press, an imprint of The Quarto Group, 401 Second Avenue North, Suite 310, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. Telephone: (612) 344-8100 Fax: (612) 344-8692

Telephone: (612) 344-8100

Fax: (612) 344-8692

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Digital edition: 978-0-76035-771-2

Hardcover edition: 978-0-99721-131-3

Library of Congress Control Number: 2016952743

Design Jan Derevjanik

Art direction Ken Newbaker

Photography Guy Ambrosino

Production Victor Cataldo

Photo of authors by Laura Miller

Burgess Lea Press donates 100% of after-tax publishing profits on each book to culinary education, feeding the hungry, farmland preservation and other food-related causes.

For Elio

(1) YELLOW ONION

(2) WHITE ONION

(3) RED ONION

(4) SWEET ONION

(5) SCALLIONS

(6) CHIVES

(7) GARLIC CHIVES

(8) GARLIC CHIVES

(9) LEEKS

(10) SHALLOTS

(11) CIPOLLINI

(12) PEARL ONION

(13) RAMPS

(14) GARLIC SCAPES

(15) GREEN GARLIC

(16) SPRING ONION

(17) GARLIC

INTRODUCTION
IS THERE AN ONION IN THE HOUSE?

SOME OF THE BEST MEALS BEGIN WITH THE folklore of the kitchen: recipes passed down through stories, laughter over the stove and sweet moments together at the table. And almost every meal begins with an onion. It has been this way since people have been cooking.

A cookbook devoted to onions-and by onions, we mean not only the hardworking yellow and red storage onions but all members of the allium family, from marble-sized pearl onions to long leeks and scallions and garlic in all its forms and stagescould include, literally, almost every savory dish known to cooks. A tiny bit daunting, to say the least. How could we find our way in? How would we narrow down what to include? As in every other aspect of our lives, we realized that the best bet was to take a step back, start small and keep it personal.

WEVE BEEN HEARING stories of fried water for years. With laughing eyes, Guys aunts would tell of a magical soup that their mother made when the pantry was bare. Like so many good things, it started with onions, one for each member of the family, cooked gently in olive oil until limpid and golden.

As the sliced onions sizzled quietly in the pan, the kitchen filled with their delicious perfume, drawing everyone closer, mouths watering. Once the onions had reached their sweet spot, their mother added water to make the simplest of broths. Finally, just before serving, she whisked eggs into the pan (again, one per person) to thicken the soup.