Siegel Helene - The totally burgers cookbook

It had all kinds of high-flown ingredients like arugula and capers mixed into upscale meats like duck. The author suggested special delicate sauces and revolutionary new techniques for frying ground patties. A burger purist at the time, Helene just couldn't see the value in a burger that was not the essential beef, bun, and ketchup combination she grew up on. So she turned it down. That was preturkey burgers and long before she had to cook dinner for a family every night of the week. Now, while still believing in the sanctity of the all-beef burger, we have become burger realists.

After all, what could be simpler than hamburgers when the gathering is casual and time is of the essence? But what to do when so many people are eating less beef than ever? In accepting the new burger challenge our aim has been to remain true to the original concept. What makes a great burger great is still the flavor of the meat, be it beef, turkey, or chicken. To our minds, the other flavors should be there to highlightnot to dominatethat essential meatiness. A great bun, whatever toppings you may happen to love, and, of course, portability help to complete the happy equation. The hamburger is as quintessentially American as blue jeans and rock n roll, and if we can add a new burger or two to your repertoire, our efforts will not have been in vain. As they say in France, Vive le hamburger!

They seemed wonderful then. Now I gag.M. F. K. Fisher, The Art of Eating

SUPERBURGERS

THE ALL-AMERICAN BEEF BURGER

When it comes to beef and burgers, we are purists. Just give us ground chuck with 15 to 20 percent fat and a good, hot frying pan and we are quite content. 1 pounds ground beef 2 garlic cloves, minced salt and freshly ground pepper olive oil for brushing Worcestershire sauce to taste Lightly combine beef and garlic and form four patties, handling as lightly as possible.

Brush the grill lightly with olive oil and preheat, or place cast-iron skillet sprinkled with salt over high heat. Season patties all over with salt and pepper. Grill or fry until bottom is charred, keeping heat high and refraining from pressing. Flip and fry second side until charred for rare. (For medium or well-done, reduce heat to medium and cook a few minutes longer on each side.) Sprinkle with Worcestershire to taste and transfer to paper towels to drain. Serve hot on buns.

S ERVES 4

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Modern American meaning of hamburger: chopped meat formed into cakes, cooked, and served on or in a soft bun.M. F. K. Fisher, The Art of Eating

PICADILLO BURGER

Serve these Mexican-style burgers topped with fireroasted chile strips, sliced olives, and salsa for a caliente experience. 1 tablespoon vegetable oil plus more for coating cup chopped onion cup diced, peeled apple 1 garlic clove, minced 1 pounds ground beef cup raisins, plumped in hot water for 10 minutes, and drained dash each cinnamon, cloves, and cumin salt and freshly ground pepper Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, apple, and garlic and saut until just softened, about 1 minute. Cool.

Lightly combine the ground beef, onion-apple mixture, raisins, cinnamon, cloves, and cumin. Season to taste with salt and pepper and gently form into patties. Preheat the grill or place cast-iron skillet over high heat. Lightly coat with oil. Grill or fry patties until charred on bottom. Flip and finish cooking, refraining from flattening with spatula.

Drain on paper towels. Serve hot on buns. S ERVES 4

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Burger Tips and TechniquesTo panfry burgers, use a heavy skillet, preferably cast-iron, and place over high heat until good and hot. Sprinkle the pan with salt and, if using beef or meat that is already fatty, fry the meat in a dry pan. Coat the pan with a thin film of oil if using lean meat like chicken or turkey. Cook just until charred on bottom, flip, and cook second side until charred for rare.