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George Solt - The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze

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George Solt The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze
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A rich, salty, and steaming bowl of noodle soup, ramen has become an international symbol of the cultural prowess of Japanese cuisine. In this highly original account of geopolitics and industrialization in Japan, George Solt traces the meteoric rise of ramen from humble fuel for the working poor to international icon of Japanese culture.
Ramens popularity can be attributed to political and economic change on a global scale. Using declassified U.S. government documents and an array of Japanese sources, Solt reveals how the creation of a black market for American wheat imports during the U.S. occupation of Japan (19451952), the reindustrialization of Japans labor force during the Cold War, and the elevation of working-class foods in redefining national identity during the past two decades of economic stagnation (1990s2000s), all contributed to the establishment of ramen as a national dish.
This book is essential reading for scholars, students of Japanese history and food studies, and anyone interested in gaining greater perspective on how international policy can influence everyday foods around the world.

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The Untold History of Ramen CALIFORNIA STUDIES IN FOOD AND CULTURE Darra - photo 1
The Untold History of Ramen
CALIFORNIA STUDIES IN FOOD AND CULTURE

Darra Goldstein, Editor

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The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze, by George Solt

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The Untold History of Ramen
HOW POLITICAL CRISIS IN JAPAN SPAWNED A GLOBAL FOOD CRAZE

George Solt

Picture 2

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS

Berkeley Los Angeles London

University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu.

University of California Press

Berkeley and Los Angeles, California

University of California Press, Ltd.

London, England

2014 by The Regents of the University of California

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Solt, George.

The untold history of ramen : how political crisis in Japan spawned a global food craze / George Solt.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 978-0-520-27756-4 (cloth, alk. paper) ISBN 978-0-520-28235-3 (pbk., alk. paper)

eISBN 9780520958371

1. Ramen (CookingJapanHistory. 2. JapanSocial life and customsHistory. I. Title.

TX809.N65S65 2014

641.8220952dc23

2013034120

Manufactured in the United States of America

23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

In keeping with a commitment to support environmentally responsible and sustainable printing practices, UC Press has printed this book on Natures Natural, a fiber that contains 30% post-consumer waste and meets the minimum requirements of ANSI/NISO Z 39.48-1992 ( R 1997) ( Permanence of Paper ).

You can tell a lot about a fellows character by his way of eating jelly beans.

Ronald Reagan

For Beverly

Contents
Illustrations
TABLES
FIGURES
Acknowledgments

The book began as a doctoral dissertation at the University of California San Diego, where the late Masao Miyoshi was kind enough to allow me to pursue this topic while working toward a degree in history. My advisors at UCSD, Stefan Tanaka and Takashi Fujitani, were supportive and generous with their time as well. Christena Turner and Daniel Widener helped me distill the project when it was still in a much earlier stage, and Robert Edelmann was a source of friendly advice at UCSD. Hifumi Ito, Masato Nishimura, Mayumi Mochizuki, Yutaka Kunitake, and Sanae Isozumi at UCSD were also very kind in helping me gather research materials and think through the topic at an early stage, and I thank Tomoyuki Sasaki, Ryan Moran, and Denis Gainty for their camaraderie.

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