Mike Laing - Trekking the Kungsleden: The Kings Trail through Northern Sweden

The Kaitumjkka River seen from the south bank (Stage 7)

Swedens Kungsleden (or Kings Trail) embodies a diverse and unique walking experience whether it is taken in its entirety or just in part. Since its foundation in the early 20th Century by the Swedish Tourist Association (STF) the trail has grown and developed a section at a time from Abisko southwards to its current terminus in Hemavan, a total distance of 460km. For those visiting Sweden, Lappland and the Arctic for the first time the Kungsleden will be a grand adventure and a step into a new world; for many it will be the start of a long and rich association involving many repeated visits.

The Kungsleden is as varied as the Arctic wilderness is vast, traversing snow-topped mountain ranges, expansive open fell, verdant forests and crossing lakes both large and small. The trail begins by passing through the rugged Lapone Mountains, home to Kebnekaise, Swedens highest peak at 2098m (which can be summitted by means of a detour from the Abisko to Nikkaluokta circuit described in Additional itinerary 2). Like all long-distance trails the Kungsleden seeks the simplest line and in doing so traverses the Tjktjavagge, a 30km glacial valley with magnificent views along its entire length. Further south the landscape softens to embrace open fell and the pristine lakes at Kaitumjaure and Teusajaure. At Aktse the famous hay meadows are perfectly framed by the azure Ljtvrre delta and the sheer chiselled face of Skierrffe. Beyond Kvikkjokk the trail becomes much quieter as it negotiates the empty fells and forest as far as Jkkvik. On leaving Bverholmen the trail climbs onto the Arjeplog Fells, an extensive and tranquil area much favoured by fishermen and naturalists alike. A brief and tantalising taste of Vindellven precedes arrival into Ammarns, home to a beautiful amber coloured wooden church and the famous Potatisbacke (potato hill). On leaving Ammarns, open fells are followed as far as Trnasjn lake after which the Kungsleden finishes as it started, among the mountains. Crossing the perfectly u-shaped Syterskalet valley places you within a day of Hemavan and the finish.

The Kungsleden is a continuous route with five distinct sections, allowing plenty of choice when it comes to how much of the trail you wish, or are able, to undertake. Many walkers limited by time spend a week walking the spectacular 103km from Abisko to Nikkaluokta (Stages 15, followed by Additional itinerary 1) through some of the Kungsledens finest mountain scenery; an itinerary that includes the Tjktjavagge. Those with more time can link multiple sections or even complete the entire trail, an undertaking requiring between four and five unhurried weeks for the average walker.

Despite the remoteness of the terrain, bridges are provided where needed by the Norrbotten and Vsterbotten local councils, as are boardwalks across the roughest and boggiest ground. Three of the Kungsledens five sections are furnished with regular STF huts ( fjllstugor ) which offer a range of services and permit the weight-wary to walk with reduced loads. Most fjllstugor offer saunas which serve to ease aching muscles and reward you for your days efforts. From start to finish the trail is very well marked and signposted making it straightforward to follow.

Swedes in their element

For half its length the Kungsleden lies within the Arctic Circle and consequently a large measure of the summer walking season takes place in 24-hour daylight. This is also Spmi, home of the Smi people whose close relationship with the reindeer has underpinned their existence since the last ice age. The reindeer are mostly absent during the walking season, although the Smi are evidenced by their summer villages, their traditional dwellings ( ktor ), reindeer enclosures ( rengrden ) and remote huts.